Tilt trailer loading edge

[IceHole]

Bought a cream pie of a tilt trailer at RB auction in December. Early 80s Miller 25k tilt deck.

Problem is the loading edge is full thickness of the deck, so maybe 8". Wouldn't figure that to be an issue, but even with my skid steer I have to bump it hard or try and nose wheelie it.
Forget it with loading something low like a warehouse forklift or a car.

Trying to come up with something. Either welding on a ramp, or a plate that flips down, or?

Blocks of wood have worked, though kind of a pain... maybe just use that?
Brainstorming and ideas are appreciated.

Best pic I could find, my.phone loads photos on this site not in order and not searching though 5000 pics!

 

[PeterG]

Your on the right track, although with big tilt equipment trailers it's the nature of the beast. I have no issues with my smaller car trailer, but my big tilt equipment is not always easy to load up, especially when wet. I added some angle iron to get a better grip on the entry ramp part (Not shown in image) which helps, and a receiver hitch to mount my slide in winch. I also looked into buying heavy rubber curb ramps, as see on the web site Parking Safe Plus.

 

[skyking1]

I'll wait for a good picture of the end and the tail lights to chime in.

 

[cuttin edge]

We had an older one with gravity tilt and a set of ramps that were light enough to flip up and down by hand. Some have spring assist, and the newer ones have air tilt, and air ramps.

 

[skyking1]

I'd weld on something permanent, just to cut down on moving pieces and simplicity. Add some weight up front to balance it if needed.
My 20T tilt is maybe 3" thick at the edge as it is.

 

[IceHole]

I'll wait for a good picture of the end and the tail lights to chime in.

Best I have right now.

Dangit. Says the files are too large

 

[IceHole]

Maybe this one will load...

Nope "the uploaded file is too large"

Yeah, so no idea. Google 1981 Miller trailer I guess?

 

[IceHole]

Looks similar to this one... I think that one has a bigger frame though.
I paid $4k for mine.

https://www.1ststrike.com/auction/742/item/equipment-trailer-miller-model-ot-640-e3d-tandem-axle-37300lb-gvwr-36000lb-capacity-8ft-x-25ft-deck-with-21ft-tilt-30867/

 

[skyking1]

I'd weld a wedge on there that does not obscure the factory lights, if you plan on using them. I saw the mag tail light in your photo and maybe that is what you plan to use.
It would not be in-plane with the deck like my deck is above. That would get too long IMO.
Just something to soften the bump up.

 

[IceHole]

I'd weld a wedge on there that does not obscure the factory lights, if you plan on using them. I saw the mag tail light in your photo and maybe that is what you plan to use.
It would not be in-plane with the deck like my deck is above. That would get too long IMO.
Just something to soften the bump up.

The magnetic lights was just temporary, needed the trailer before I could fix the plug wires. Was -15* and wiring doesn't play nice.

 

[IceHole]

I'd weld on something permanent, just to cut down on moving pieces and simplicity. Add some weight up front to balance it if needed.
My 20T tilt is maybe 3" thick at the edge as it is.
View attachment 305324

Thinking of adding a 12v hydraulic power pack so it's not gravity. Would make it way easier to load attachments and then the machine.

 

[skyking1]

If you have a standard tilt hydraulic cylinder with the bypass line from the top to the bottom, you can put a hand valve in there to lock it off. I've seen guys do that. You can get a long handle so you can reach in there without crawling in there to open or close it .

 

[PeterG]

A tilt lock in the up position would be nice. That being said I find deck boards get real slippery in the rain and winter. For the most part, I often plan to get the excavator up and then secure the lock down, and then sling all the other items up like my compactors, job box, buckets, etc.

That's why I mounted a set up for a winch so I can pull equipment up and slowly lower equipment back down it if needed. I bought a forklift at one point, and had a hell of a time loading it. I needed another bigger forklift to lift the bed up. When I went to get the forklift off, it just slid down the trailer with no control. Luckily it slid straight and did not get sideways and tip over with me in it.

I also welded on a million D-Rings.

 

[IceHole]

I guess either this came on later ones or mine is missing.
Says 2001, but my 1981 looks exactly the same aside from the loading "ramp" and mine is white.

 

[skyking1]

That is to meet the 1998 DOT safety bar requirements. That was when the OTR trailers all had to have the lower bumper to help with under run accidents.
It took a lot of years to get it done, but Jayne Mansfield's under run death got the public attention on it.
https://www.nola.com/300/rememberin...cle_f67ff581-2b55-5118-8d41-fb30a8a8d41e.html

 

[IceHole]

That is to meet the 1998 DOT safety bar requirements. That was when the OTR trailers all had to have the lower bumper to help with under run accidents.
It took a lot of years to get it done, but Jayne Mansfield's under run death got the public attention on it.
https://www.nola.com/300/rememberin...cle_f67ff581-2b55-5118-8d41-fb30a8a8d41e.html

Trailer is not even waste high so don't think it's for that.
Got me thinking too, my delivery truck, a T880 box truck has no DOT bar. Just a lift gate. The "bumper" is chest high.

I'd guess more so it's not a knife edge plus a place for lights and DOT reflector tape

 

[skyking1]

Yes, it's for that. Trailers greater than 10,000 lb gross weight manufactured after 1998 have to have a guard bumper that is within 22 inches of the ground and within 4"of the full width of the trailer. It's specifies how wide the bars are and everything. In the case of that fold down above, it covers all the bases because it doesn't have any bars.
Note that the rule does not apply to trucks themselves, just trailers.
There's probably a different one for the trucks like your delivery.

 

[IceHole]

Yes, it's for that. Trailers greater than 10,000 lb gross weight manufactured after 1998 have to have a guard bumper that is within 22 inches of the ground and within 4"of the full width of the trailer. It's specifies how wide the bars are and everything. In the case of that fold down above, it covers all the bases because it doesn't have any bars.
Note that the rule does not apply to trucks themselves, just trailers.
There's probably a different one for the trucks like your delivery.

The info I have says 30". But either way, it's a design I can copy for a ramp.

They made me pay for one on my F350 dumptruck since the bed was over 30"

 

[Welder Dave]

I think I'd just weld a plate extension on the back. If it was 3/8" thick might be enough if it sits on the ground when loading and unloading. Could put tapered gussets on the outside edges. Bolting some thick rubber on the outside corners would help prevent extreme pain if you accidentally walked into it.

 

[IceHole]

I think I'd just weld a plate extension on the back. If it was 3/8" thick might be enough if it sits on the ground when loading and unloading. Could put tapered gussets on the outside edges. Bolting some thick rubber on the outside corners would help prevent extreme pain if you accidentally walked into it.

The lights are along the back though. That's why the folding lip seemed great.

I may just keep some blocks of wood, not like I don't have enough projects to last me 20 years as is!