TEREX 82-10 6v71T Detroit Revival

[jezow2010]

I am in the process of trying to get a TEREX 82-20 running that has been sitting for maybe 30 years. We got it started after freeing up the racks and it initially ran on 2-3 cylinders all on one bank for a few minutes before taking off on the other side and sounding pretty good.

Ran out of light and went back yesterday, albeit 20 degrees colder at ~30F it started very hard and ran on 1-2 cylinders for maybe 5-7 minutes with no signs of life from the other bank or the rear cylinder on the RH bank.

Can this be stuck injectors? I took the valve cover off and the racks are moving freely and the tappets are not stuck down; they move up and down freely with the rocker

The fuel is pretty nasty, anyone ever see bad fuel do this? I think next time I will drain and replace

Does anyone have any diagrams for which side of the injector is the fuel in and the return? Should I be bleeding each injector at the injector?

Same for fuel inlet and outlet in the head. Which one is which?

It was slobbering out the turbo on both the intake and exhaust side. Looked like oil. Stuck rings? Kind of scary, right? Keep trying to get here going or is this the recipe for a runaway and she needs work first?

Thanks for any help, I am by no means a Detroit expert but I know there are some out there.

We are getting fuel through the pump and to the heads, to the injectors. I guess there could be slugs of air but I do not think it is just not getting proper fuel.

 

[Mr. Wrench]

I would definitely put fresh fuel to it and new fuel filters. The fuel has to be nasty. Then I would wait for an answer for the experts, I don't have much experience with them yet. Glad you are trying to save a piece of old iron and a Detroit to!

 

[BC Placer gold]

Regarding runaway safety.... for our annual spring startup, I keep a piece of 1" thick urethane ready for the air intake (the 6-71 in our 82-30 sits for 5 months each winter). This forms an airtight seal on air intake pipe. Have never had any trouble in 13 seasons (I would prefer not to use the factory emergency shut down on the blower...)

Do you have a block heater? Really easy to add, first thing I did for ours...be a lot nicer to work on with a warm engine block at those temperatures. Our machine will typically put some white smoke (raw diesel) for a few seconds upon cold start, then the sixth injector comes on and everything smooths out nicely. If it is block heated all injectors fire right away, little to no smoke.

Our machine is in the bush so I just use a Yamaha 2000 generator.

Have had a stuck rack while bringing our long stored 4 cylinder boat engine back to life on a test stand; this same method was effective for an easily controlled shut down. By the way that little 2.5l really spun up fast!

Good luck with the machine. Ours has proven to be a very reliable unit. It is a nicely balanced machine to operate. It has definitely benefitted from actually getting used, run right at max rpm and use some good earmuffs (I use Peltor 3m 105's)

If you get it up and running it would probably be a good idea to change out the transmission fluid, this was done on ours and it pushes strong in 1st, or (rarely use 2nd)....I never use 3rd and only 2nd for walking.

C & C repairs in Ohio are an excellent source of parts.

A lot of really good mechanics on here in regards to your mechanical questions....

 

[Simon C]

There is no bleeding the fuel lines as you have suggested. The fuel enters the primary filter and if you need to, you pressurize the secondary filter in the inlet port with a carter fuel pump coming from a jerry can till you hear the fuel pump start to labour for 5-10 seconds. Shut off fuel pump, remove swivel fitting at Secondary fitting on filter and re-install pipe plug.
The head has sufficient fuel now to start no problem and the air is out.
There is a return fitting ( Bronze 90 Degree ) on the side of the head with a restricted orifice in it like 0.070 or something like that . It is what controls the return fuel back to tank.
Good to have block heater as BC Placer Gold has said.
Some have used Oil Pan immersion heaters as well. Plugs and good muffs a good idea.
Simon C

 

[jezow2010]

Today I went back and replaced the fuel, bled the system out good and fired it up again. It missed for a while but with a few sniffs of ether it kind of came to life. I shut it off and looked and look at the oil coming out the turbo….. can I run it like this or is it bad turbo seals or blower seals and she needs repair? I would say this is from 90 seconds of run time.

 

[Simon C]

Would say that it looks like Turbo is gone. Question did you prelube turbo before first start up, cause if it was sitting a long time bearings would of been dry and are now probablly gone or the seal is gone.
The crank should of been prelubed before starting also. That old of engine and not running that long will rarely be just get it running and all good.
Could be fixed but not sure about all availability of parts on that old.
Simon C

 

[bccat]

That machine is on youtube, it sat for a long time with out a hood exposed to the elements. Like Simon C says that turbo is shot. You seem to be in a rush in all your videos, if you had taken the proper steps you could of maybe saved that machine ,

 

[jezow2010]

That machine is on youtube, it sat for a long time with out a hood exposed to the elements. Like Simon C says that turbo is shot. You seem to be in a rush in all your videos, if you had taken the proper steps you could of maybe saved that machine ,

Why can’t it still be saved?

I have videos I’m working on that I have been working on for two calendar years. Always in a rush in all of my videos eh?

 

[jezow2010]

Would say that it looks like Turbo is gone. Question did you prelube turbo before first start up, cause if it was sitting a long time bearings would of been dry and are now probablly gone or the seal is gone.
The crank should of been prelubed before starting also. That old of engine and not running that long will rarely be just get it running and all good.
Could be fixed but not sure about all availability of parts on that old.
Simon C

I did not prelube turbo, maybe should’ve but didn’t think about it. After I fired it yesterday I felt the turbo and it is still unbelievably tight.

How would you prelube a crank?

I’m sure turbo parts are available, they mad thousands of 6v71ts. Just a matter of whether or not it’s actually bad or if it’s just slobbering past rings.

 

[Simon C]

I did not prelube turbo, maybe should’ve but didn’t think about it. After I fired it yesterday I felt the turbo and it is still unbelievably tight.

How would you prelube a crank?

I’m sure turbo parts are available, they mad thousands of 6v71ts. Just a matter of whether or not it’s actually bad or if it’s just slobbering past rings.

There is oil plugs all along the side of the block that go into the main oil gallery. That is where the oil line goes to fill the oil gallery, fills the mains and rods and forces oil up to top rockers. It also will feed the blower bearings and camshaft bearings.
It is a large capacity pipe like about 8 inches diameter with 2 inch plug on top ( where the oil gets put in ) as well as an air connection on top for controlled air pressure. Bottom of large cylindrical pipe has bottom connection for #6 hose that goes to the 1/8 plug hole on main oil gallery.
I made one years ago and use to use it to fill a newly overhauled engine with fresh oil before start up.
Simon C

 

[Simon C]

Very highly doubt the turbo will runagain without a new bearing job or more. If it is seized, do not try to unseize and run again or it will grenade and cause more damage.
Simon C

 

[Tones]

When you forced the turbo to turn initially is a very good indication the the bearings are rusted and you walked on by.
The fuel should have been shut off then cranked allowing it to make good oil pressure prior to starting.What you did was to load up the cylinders with unburned fuel putting extra load and the very possibility of a run away engine. Having the fuel shut off means there's less load on the moving components.
More time spent thinking can save a lot of hours and dollars which is the difference between salvaging or scrapping.
Hope you can get this machine restored in a proper manner and stop thinking with the little head and more with the big one.

 

[jezow2010]

There is oil plugs all along the side of the block that go into the main oil gallery. That is where the oil line goes to fill the oil gallery, fills the mains and rods and forces oil up to top rockers. It also will feed the blower bearings and camshaft bearings.
It is a large capacity pipe like about 8 inches diameter with 2 inch plug on top ( where the oil gets put in ) as well as an air connection on top for controlled air pressure. Bottom of large cylindrical pipe has bottom connection for #6 hose that goes to the 1/8 plug hole on main oil gallery.
I made one years ago and use to use it to fill a newly overhauled engine with fresh oil before start up.
Simon C

yeah this is good

When you forced the turbo to turn initially is a very good indication the the bearings are rusted and you walked on by.
The fuel should have been shut off then cranked allowing it to make good oil pressure prior to starting.What you did was to load up the cylinders with unburned fuel putting extra load and the very possibility of a run away engine. Having the fuel shut off means there's less load on the moving components.
More time spent thinking can save a lot of hours and dollars which is the difference between salvaging or scrapping.
Hope you can get this machine restored in a proper manner and stop thinking with the little head and more with the big one.

I don’t know everything, in fact I hardly know anything. This is why I ask lol

 

[jezow2010]

Sounds like the consensus is the oil is coming from the turbo but I also loaded her up a little, which I can kind of see.

I’m going to look a little harder at the turbo next time and then I’ll have to see.

I know it doesn’t always look pretty but there’s a long story behind every piece of machinery, this one is no different. Long story short it ain’t my machine, owner said it’s good to go put batteries in it and take her for a rip and if you like it buy it.
I’m coming to learn I should always expect the worst but I think wisdom comes with age and failure so here I am.

Thanks for all the help guys

 

[Tenwheeler]

There is oil plugs all along the side of the block that go into the main oil gallery. That is where the oil line goes to fill the oil gallery, fills the mains and rods and forces oil up to top rockers. It also will feed the blower bearings and camshaft bearings.
It is a large capacity pipe like about 8 inches diameter with 2 inch plug on top ( where the oil gets put in ) as well as an air connection on top for controlled air pressure. Bottom of large cylindrical pipe has bottom connection for #6 hose that goes to the 1/8 plug hole on main oil gallery.
I made one years ago and use to use it to fill a newly overhauled engine with fresh oil before start up.
Simon C

I like to prelube new builds like that. Connect the shop bulk oil pump up direct to the engine. Preferred to be between the oil pump and filter. If direct to the oil galley be sure the screen in your meter gun is in good condition and clean. There are other ways but however you do it I like to prelube engines that have sat for a long time also.