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TD8E Input.

struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
Hello Gents,
New member here and wanted to mention how this site is a wealth of knowledge and I am really liking it so far.

I just had a couple questions about a TD8E that I’m looking to buy hopefully in the next couple of weeks. This might get a little wordy so I apologize lol.
The hours on the machine are unknown but the serial number has it right at ’75 or a ’76 TD8E. Seems like a pretty clean machine but I wanted to get your guys’ input on what I need to look for. I have taken samples of the engine oil, tranny fluid and hydraulic fluid, and they are all in the lab being tested and I should have the results tomorrow. I have started it up and taken it for a cruise around the dealer where it’s located.

The first time I went to look at the dozer it wouldn’t start, but they claimed it hadn’t been started in some time. I told them that I would be back the following day, and they said they would have it warmed up and ready to go (they said it just needed a new battery). I got there and it was already warmed up, fired right off (though I did notice a can of starter fluid nearby). The engine sounded good, and there wasn’t any blue smoke, no signs of leaking under the machine. Both sides turned fine, and it seemed pretty responsive, but I have limited experience with dozers, more on track hoes than dozers. I really wasn’t able to test the brakes because the lot is very flat. I wanted to be able to push some dirt around or be able to test the torque converter a little bit to make sure it is functioning but their lot is asphalt and there wasn’t any dirt to push around.

Anyway I will be going back tomorrow (depending on what I hear from the lab about the fluids) and just wanted to hear some thoughts about what common issues the mid ‘70’s TD8E’s had. I am pretty sure it has the D239 engine but I will tear into it a little more tomorrow and see if that’s true. The bushings seem quite worn, as well as the right sprocket. I can’t really see the lower idlers because of the rock guard. The grouser bars seem pretty worn, but still a good amount of life left in them. I will post some pics after my visit tomorrow to get your opinions.

So I guess my main question at this point is if any of you guys have experience with these machines, what common issues do they have and for a first time dozer buyer what are some things I should look for?

Thanks in advance!! :)
Zack
 

russ61

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
22
Location
SE Indiana
Occupation
screw machine shop supervisor
The can of starting fluid scares me.Try to go back when the engine is cold and see how it starts.It could be a sign of low compression,or as some on here have said the engine could have been "weaned" on fluid.Be careful they can be a money pit.Read the thread in the track loader section,"my firsttrack loader.He had some fun but stuck withit and ended up with a good machine.Be prepared it can turn into a s*** storm quickly!But it can be a fun and learning expierence too.
Russ
 

struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
Here are a few pics of the machine. I wasn't able to stop by today, but hopefully will tomorrow or Friday. I'll crawl around the machine and get some better pics.
 

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struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
Dangit!! I forgot the pic of the bushings. Here ya go.

ETA: Do you guys think i should be worried about the gap on the right side of the image, the distance between the rails?

Thanks for your advice :)
 

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koldsteele

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Va.
Occupation
Owner Heavy Equipment Mechanic
One thing about starting this machine ...The thottle linkage has a start position which allows maxiuim fuel from the injection pump for starting ....If everything is right it should start without the use of either ..

One more thing about them 239's Be nice to them they are expense to rebuild ...
 

struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
One thing about starting this machine ...The thottle linkage has a start position which allows maxiuim fuel from the injection pump for starting ....If everything is right it should start without the use of either ..

One more thing about them 239's Be nice to them they are expense to rebuild ...

Do you mean the first notch on the throttle, I assumed that was the start position. So you're saying I should be able to put the throttle in any position and it should fire up?
 

oarwhat

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
840
Location
buffalo,n.y.
Struckzb what koldsteele is saying the throttle has to be in the first notch to start when cold. It also has to be adjusted properly for that to work. That sprocket is close to worn out which means the undercarriage is also. I hope you're getting a great price on it. That being said I really liked those dozers.
 

struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
Struckzb what koldsteele is saying the throttle has to be in the first notch to start when cold. It also has to be adjusted properly for that to work. That sprocket is close to worn out which means the undercarriage is also. I hope you're getting a great price on it. That being said I really liked those dozers.

Thank you Oarwhat. What would you consider to be a great price?
 

oarwhat

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
840
Location
buffalo,n.y.
Good question I haven't been paying attention to any equipment prices for a long time but I'd say $5000 to $7000???? Anyone else chime in.
 

jmtrackworks

Active Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Messages
35
Location
South Carolina
Occupation
Owner/Operater; Martins Track Works
11k is an average price. Just be prepared for some under carriage cost soon. Good lookin machine!
 

stumpjumper83

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
1,979
Location
Port Allegany, pa
Occupation
Movin dirt
@11k, thats the low end of what I see on machinery trader's for sale prices, what I saw on there in that price range needed bottoms and one needed a blade skin. If the oil samples come back good I'd try makin them an offer like 8.5 or something and seeing if they bite. Its definatly a buyers game right now, 2x that if you have cash in hand.

Be patient, and work them a little and see what happens.
 

ETMF 58 White

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
184
Location
SEC West
Look at $13000 to $18000 for a mid-90s JD650G or Cat D4H with decent UC. You will be better off in the long run and have a more productive machine. This Dresser needs some major dollars spent on the UC soon, and you've still got 1) a 35 year old tractor, and 2) a Dresser. Don't go by prices on Machinery Trader, look at IronPlanet or the reputable auction companies. The 4045T engines in the Deere are great engines, and you can rebuild it for $3000 using John Deere parts, or at least I did mine not too long ago.

Not to disparage the Dresser, and this one is a good looking machine, but it's just not a JD or a Cat. There is a difference.
 

struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
Well fellas. Finally got the fluid results back and no sooner did that happen and it was sold :(. The engine oil tested positive for glycol which could either be an oil additive or coolant of course.(according to the lab). The tranny fluid looked okay but had some rubber and scale present but overall acceptable. And the hydraulic fluid was clean.

Oh well some one else got her but like you guys said it would have needed some work on the U/C.

I'm now looking at a '96 Cat D3C, for 14,500. Thanks for all your guys' help. I'm a little disappointed it sold so quick and would have liked to have checked it out a little more. But I'll keep you guys posted about the Cat.
 

struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
Gosh I keep going back and forth looking at different machines!!! Any way like I was saying the TD8E pictured sold, right as I got the oil results. And I am looking at a Cat D3C sometime this week hopefully but tomorrow I am stopping by a place that has a TD7E.

So I have been reading about Short transmissions being the ideal one to have. I look for a U-joint shaft under the seat that goes to the torque converter, that is 10-12" long correct? Does anyone have any pics as to what this looks like?
 

struckzb

Active Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
28
Location
Washington
Disregard. Checked the machine out... It's a C not an E, (serial#***1324) so about 1973. The bushings are completely worn through to the pins. I talked to the Komatsu dealer and they said they can't get track chain or sprockets for the C models. And they are back ordered elsewhere. Too much hassle, so the search goes on.
 
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