TD8C will not pull either direction after large leak

[Blaw1978]

Have a TD8c dozer that has a massive leak from directly under the battery compartment area . It is a steady stream that fills that cavity and then pours down onto the left side tracks . Any ideas as to what I need to remove to access that area and also any idea what hose or component that could burst that would render it motionless in either direction ? I posted a picture with an arrow showing the corner of which the fluid dumps from . Thanks in advance !

 

[D5Dan]

Hi Blaw1978, I’m going to “guess” you blew a hydraulic line that goes to your steering (assist), and since that fluid is shared with the transmission, you no longer have enough fluid to allow the trans to function properly.
BUT I must come clean- I have ZERO experience with a TD8 machine, so I’m guessing as to what your real issue is.
On my old D5 I can remove all floor panels and seat with a 9/16 wrench/socket- my floor pans are rough so it takes some time/patience and a couple screw drivers to pry them up/out, but at that point I have great access to see what’s going on. In addition, under my seat is where I have some grease fittings as well as trans/bevel gear dipstick/fill. Don’t be shy, tear into that old pig and start looking around, you’ll be amazed at all the junk you find/learn!! Keep posting pictures since that will let the real experts see what you have (or don’t have!) - you’ll get better advice/direction that way- plus they’ll identify other “issues” you didn’t even know where staring you in the face . Good luck, keep that old iron moving!!

 

[Willie B]

Do you not have an access plate on the side? TD7G has a filter in the compartment forward of the batteries.

 

[Acecadet]

I have a Td8e that is very similar to your C. The filter for the transmission resides in that box just in front of the batteries. It is a damn thing to work in there. There is no easy access to the lines on either side of the filter. I have had a hose blow in there also. Took quite a bit of fooling around to change it out.

 

[Blaw1978]

Hi Blaw1978, I’m going to “guess” you blew a hydraulic line that goes to your steering (assist), and since that fluid is shared with the transmission, you no longer have enough fluid to allow the trans to function properly.
BUT I must come clean- I have ZERO experience with a TD8 machine, so I’m guessing as to what your real issue is.
On my old D5 I can remove all floor panels and seat with a 9/16 wrench/socket- my floor pans are rough so it takes some time/patience and a couple screw drivers to pry them up/out, but at that point I have great access to see what’s going on. In addition, under my seat is where I have some grease fittings as well as trans/bevel gear dipstick/fill. Don’t be shy, tear into that old pig and start looking around, you’ll be amazed at all the junk you find/learn!! Keep posting pictures since that will let the real experts see what you have (or don’t have!) - you’ll get better advice/direction that way- plus they’ll identify other “issues” you didn’t even know where staring you in the face . Good luck, keep that old iron moving!!

Can’t thank you enough for your reply !! I’ve been worried to death it’s something catastrophic but hopefully like you suggest I just dive in and learn as I go .

 

[Blaw1978]

I have a Td8e that is very similar to your C. The filter for the transmission resides in that box just in front of the batteries. It is a damn thing to work in there. There is no easy access to the lines on either side of the filter. I have had a hose blow in there also. Took quite a bit of fooling around to change it out.

I can look down below in the battery compartment and barely see a hose fitting end that seems to be the area the fluid is originating from . It’s in the front bottom corner of that entire left hand console compartment beside the seat .

 

[bam1968]

I know nothing about a TD8C but from your description and looking at your pics I would prob start by taking that back panel off. It's only 6 bolts. Like D5dan said, just start tearing into it you will find it soon if it is leaking that much.

 

[Willie B]

Might be easy, a failed o ring on the filter housing, a cracked fitting.

I once had a JD 410 backhoe with an imperceptible leak, I couldn't find it, but when hot it got BAD! Near impossible to fit under so I dug a hole I could fit in. It proved to be a cracked $20. fitting. Took about 20 minutes to fix once I understood the where.

 

[Blaw1978]

Ok guys it took a while to get time to tear into the dozer but today I found the culprit !!! Removed the battery and tried to remove years of gunk at the filter housing base and upon digging it exposed a severely compromised hose . It ran from the near center of the top of the transmission over to the base of the filter unit . The other line from filter housing ran over the tranny and drops down the right frame side and heads forward . That line seems sound . Tomorrow I’ll source a replacement hose and some fluid ! Fingers crossed this old rascal will make some movement to a much better work area . Thanks for all the help to this point !

 

[D5Dan]

I bet that was a gusher!!
Depending on your time/ambition, once you get that line fixed (aka machine moveable) might be worth dropping the belly pans to dig out the crap/fire material packed in around the drivetrain.
After the fact (best way to learn, right!?!), I realized having the blade up (and blocked/supported) along with driving the machine up onto some 2x10’s (doubled-up each side)…really gave me better access to get the pans in/out. Definitely was a PITA, but glad I got in there; engine oil pan was sitting right in the muck (packed in on all sides). Found a bunch of little gotchas too…don’t want to spoil the surprises, you’ll see

 

[Blaw1978]

I bet that was a gusher!!
Depending on your time/ambition, once you get that line fixed (aka machine moveable) might be worth dropping the belly pans to dig out the crap/fire material packed in around the drivetrain.
After the fact (best way to learn, right!?!), I realized having the blade up (and blocked/supported) along with driving the machine up onto some 2x10’s (doubled-up each side)…really gave me better access to get the pans in/out. Definitely was a PITA, but glad I got in there; engine oil pan was sitting right in the muck (packed in on all sides). Found a bunch of little gotchas too…don’t want to spoil the surprises, you’ll see

View attachment 283510View attachment 283509View attachment 283507View attachment 283508

Wow!! That’s a lot of stuff !! I’m sure mine has plenty . I’ll definitely be doing that soon now .

 

[Blaw1978]

So I got that compartment cleaned and degreased . Cleaned filter housing and reinstalled . Put on new line and filled with fluid . Now It will move itself forward and reverse but it will creep forward or reverse even with the shifter lever in neutral and the safety lever in place . Wondering if I will need to rebuild the pilot control valve ? If so where could I source those parts ?

 

[Acecadet]

I think you may be looking at the wrong part. The pilot control is only part of the system. I think you may have a problem in either the drain line 3/8” hose from the pilot valve or a blockage in the range valve. The pilot valve puts oil to either the forward or reverse clutch all the time. The creeping would be from oil slipping to one of the three range clutches. Here is a diagram of the power shift system.

 

[Blaw1978]

I have a service manual that I recently purchased and I’ve been trying to educate myself . I navigated to the picture you attached . I love to learn how things work from the inside out but it does take me a while to absorb it all sometimes . So I should trace the 3/8 line and check it for blockage and then look into the range valve . Do you happen to know where I could find a parts manual for this machine and also do you have a preferred source for parts such as rebuild kits for these valves and such . The old girl needs some time and money but I’m determined to see it in full potential.

 

[Acecadet]

I got my manuals from farm manuals fast. The pictures are not the clearest but you will get the point. From my reading, I see that one of the spools in the range valve needs pressure to place it in neutral otherwise 1st gear clutch pack will be engaged. I have attached a picture from my parts manual showing the line to the upper portion of the range valve that needs to be getting oil in the neutral position. If this valve or the selector valve are partially hung up or blocked by a piece of garbage it would cause the creeping you are witnessing.

 

[Blaw1978]

That looks like a nice greasy area to get to lol. I’m only asking in hopes it could be a possibility but could it still have air cavities in the lines ? I replaced that #12 hose that was about 4’ long and had to put in 6 gallons of fluid to get it to the full line on the stick . I’ve only had it running a total of maybe 3-5 minutes in total since that repair . I had to disconnect the battery as I noticed the alternator was smoking . I have to now address the electrical side before I can check out the movement issue . My schematics show that dozer to have an external voltage regulator but this one has a 90ish looking alternator with only a single wire running from alternator to the starter solenoid and that particular wire has been literally scorched the full length .

 

[hseII]

That looks like a nice greasy area to get to lol. I’m only asking in hopes it could be a possibility but could it still have air cavities in the lines ? I replaced that #12 hose that was about 4’ long and had to put in 6 gallons of fluid to get it to the full line on the stick . I’ve only had it running a total of maybe 3-5 minutes in total since that repair . I had to disconnect the battery as I noticed the alternator was smoking . I have to now address the electrical side before I can check out the movement issue . My schematics show that dozer to have an external voltage regulator but this one has a 90ish looking alternator with only a single wire running from alternator to the starter solenoid and that particular wire has been literally scorched the full length .

That machine needs the belly pans dropped & a date with some Super Purple/Purple Power & a good scrub brush & a steam cleaner.

Until you get it clean you are looking for boogers in the dark without a flashlight & hoping the moon shines a light on the situation.

It will also help you get ahead of future hose ruptures by identifying & replacement of the already damaged or worn hoses now rather than when they go.

Grease/flammables & electrical sparks don’t mix.

Use your serial number to determine your model number & go on eBay & buy the correct manuals.

IH construction equipment serial numbers & engine xrefs

This thread contains IH construction equipment serial number lists and engine cross reference information. Excellent info for ascertaining the year of manufacture of your crawler tractor and the engine it uses, not to mention the other machines that use the same engine. If you have questions abou...

www.redpowermagazine.com

TD8c 1969-73 [ 442 ]

WT-16580lbs

501-1969

510-1970

768-1971

1078-1972

1531-1973 2016 end

 

[hseII]

That looks like a nice greasy area to get to lol. I’m only asking in hopes it could be a possibility but could it still have air cavities in the lines ? I replaced that #12 hose that was about 4’ long and had to put in 6 gallons of fluid to get it to the full line on the stick . I’ve only had it running a total of maybe 3-5 minutes in total since that repair . I had to disconnect the battery as I noticed the alternator was smoking . I have to now address the electrical side before I can check out the movement issue . My schematics show that dozer to have an external voltage regulator but this one has a 90ish looking alternator with only a single wire running from alternator to the starter solenoid and that particular wire has been literally scorched the full length .

That machine needs the belly pans dropped & a date with some Super Purple/Purple Power & a good scrub brush & a steam cleaner.

Until you get it clean you are looking for boogers in the dark without a flashlight & hoping the moon shines a light on the situation.

It will also help you get ahead of future hose ruptures by identifying & replacement of the already damaged or worn hoses now rather than when they go.

Grease/flammables & electrical sparks don’t mix.

Use your serial number to determine your model number & go on eBay & buy the correct manuals.

IH construction equipment serial numbers & engine xrefs

This thread contains IH construction equipment serial number lists and engine cross reference information. Excellent info for ascertaining the year of manufacture of your crawler tractor and the engine it uses, not to mention the other machines that use the same engine. If you have questions abou...

www.redpowermagazine.com

This is the service manual-

International Harvester IH TD8C TD8E Dozer Chassis Shop Service Repair Manual | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for International Harvester IH TD8C TD8E Dozer Chassis Shop Service Repair Manual at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Willie B]

An industrial facility I frequent used heavy machines supplied by others to move large volume of raw materials. Loaders were auction purchases. ALL had major leaks.
The operators are ALL heavy smokers, not allowed to smoke inside the building. They make up for missed smokes every time they step outside.

I drove in one day, to see a large Caterpillar loader burned to the ground. Nothing was left except steel. It was sad to see! No one knows how it started, I have a theory. Leaked oil mixed with 500 LBS of dead cigarette butts provided accelerant.