Takeuchi TL150/Gehl CTL 80 won't start/fuel shutoff solenoid issue

[heymccall]

My gut says alternator for the lamp flashing.
Or one of the little wires is broken.

 

[Salt2448]

My gut says alternator for the lamp flashing.
Or one of the little wires is broken.

I took the alternator into an Alternator Shop a couple days and they said everything looked good in it. They took it apart and cleaned the brushes.

I will look into the two wires that plug into the back of the alternator. Does anyone know where these run to? All the way up to a relay?

 

[skata]

Check all your wires and connectors. I had a bad connection at the fuel solenoid connector and it worked intermittently. Or find which relay turns on the fuel solenoid and check solder. You may have one bad wire or connection somewhere causing both your problems. Check the grounds too.

 

[heymccall]

When the alternator is working, the Blue w/yellow is the one that latches the charge relay.

 

[Salt2448]

I've been doing a little more research and wanted to run this by you guys.

I found a forum that a guy used a mechanical plunger for the fuel shutoff solenoid and ran a cable into the cab to eliminate all his issues on his Mustang MTL 16.

I was wondering if this is possible or if anyone has done this before.

If so do they make a mechanical plunger that would fit this machine.

OR

Could you just wire the fuel shutoff solenoid to a switch in the cab directly from the battery to bypass all the electrical issues these machines have?

I am going to dig into the electrical a little more this afternoon, but wanted to run this by you guys.

Thanks again!

 

[skata]

You could do that. But you'll lose the low oil and low coolant shutdown feature.

 

[Salt2448]

You could do that. But you'll lose the low oil and low coolant shutdown feature.

Ok thanks!

I think I am just going to modify the fuel cut off solenoid and run a manual choke cable back to it to bypass the the relays and issues I am having.

This is my personal machine so I am the only operator. I keep a close eye fluid levels and gauges when I am using it so I don't think I will have an issue with not having the low oil and coolant shutdown feature.

I appreciate all the help from everyone!

 

[heymccall]

I'd simply cut the red wire on the solenoid, leave the chassis side open, and connect the red of the solenoid to a key switch source.
You'll still go on and off via key, and still get warning alarms, just no emergency shutdowns.

 

[Salt2448]

I'd simply cut the red wire on the solenoid, leave the chassis side open, and connect the red of the solenoid to a key switch source.
You'll still go on and off via key, and still get warning alarms, just no emergency shutdowns.

Ok I think I will do this instead, sounds a lot easier than fabricating a manual on/off. I'm just not that good with electrical stuff. This seems easy enough to do though.

Thanks!

 

[skata]

Do you get any other lights flashing when it dies? Did you verify that it's not your coolant level sensor that kills the machine? I believe you can just ground it to bypass to test when machine dies. There's other threads on here about this sensor. Fairly common issue.

 

[Salt2448]

Do you get any other lights flashing when it dies? Did you verify that it's not your coolant level sensor that kills the machine? I believe you can just ground it to bypass to test when machine dies. There's other threads on here about this sensor. Fairly common issue.

All the fluid levels are good and the coolant sensor is bypassed.

No other lights are blinking other than the battery light.

I was getting very frustrated with this and need to get some projects done so I cut the end right off the fuel cut off solenoid so that could not kill the machine. I just went out and ran it for 45 minutes and it died again.

What it the battery circuit could be causing this?

The alternator was tested and was good. I switched batteries with a battery that was a year old, possibly this battery is bad too?? I might just go out and buy a brand new one...

When I test the battery with the volt meter before and after it dies it seems to by fine though. The battery ground seems nice and tight too.

Any ideas?

 

[Salt2448]

If there is no way to kill the machine electronically if the fuel cutoff solenoid is not in, could it possibly be the lift pump?

I was thinking about plumbing in a pressure gauge on the out going side of the lift pump to determine the pressure that the lift pump is putting out. Does anyone know what psi the lift pump is supposed to put out?

 

[Salt2448]

If there is no way to kill the machine electronically if the fuel cutoff solenoid is not in, could it possibly be the lift pump?

I was thinking about plumbing in a pressure gauge on the out going side of the lift pump to determine the pressure that the lift pump is putting out. Does anyone know what psi the lift pump is supposed to put out?

I just changed out the fuel pump and that didn't do it... So I guess I'm still leading towards an electrical issue...

 

[heymccall]

If you cut the pin off the stop solenoid, and you've changed the fuel pump, my money is still on a fuel restriction in the tank bottom, a crushed line, or a restriction in the water separator.
On 2 of TL150s, they had a pebble in the tank outlet that eventually trapped straw.
On the third one, after tank removal, I extracted a plastic shopping bag.

 

[heymccall]

I also don't see where you fully disassembled the water separator.
Quick and dirty, just buy a Napa inline fuel screen (p/n 3972) and put it in place of the water separator. That'll rule out an internal restriction in the separator.

 

[skata]

As far as I'm aware , the only thing electrical on the engine is the fuel solenoid and lift pump. But the machine will run without the lift pump working. It's there to assist in priming. You have a mechanical fuel pump and mechanical injectors. I don't see how a voltage issue can stop it running if you modified the fuel solenoid to stay on.

 

[Salt2448]

I just wanted to give you an update on my machine. I cleaned the whole fuel system again last Friday. I took off the fuel water separator and put it in my ultrasonic cleaner and blew out all the lines. The fuel water separator had a bunch of white crusty build up that came out of it. Once I put the fuel system all back together it ran great. I used it all weekend about 40 hours of use and it ran great with no issues. I have not put the fuel stop solenoid back in yet but will do that one of these days. The battery light is still flashing, but I am just going to ignore it as long as the machine stays running.

I appreciate all the help from you guys! Thank you much!

 

[skata]

Good to hear and thanks for the update.