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T300 Traction Lock Issue

jakesol

New Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Campbell River, BC
Good morning, this is my first post although I have utilized the the forum a fair bit as a guest. I am struggling with a problem with a T300 I am working on. The main issue is with the Traction Lock on the machine. Originally the owner discovered that the harness for the solenoid was completely rusted out so he replaced it with a generic plug on both sides. This did not correct the issue at which point he contacted me. I checked the codes and was getting a 16-07 error which is Traction Lock Solenoid Open. I obtained an electrical schematic but found that the schematic did not jive with what I was looking at in the machine. I contacted the local dealer and it indeed seems the schematic is incorrect....I will get back to this in a moment. I checked the solenoid based on the information provided by the dealer....that is that the two wires coming from the solenoid are power and ground....there was no continuity which suggested the coil was fried and hence the open code. I ordered a new coil installed and the code disappeared.....but the traction lock remains on. So now I am wondering if the information from the dealer was correct....he was certainly not certain and confessed he had not seen this before....they have always been very helpful. Here is what I am looking at....the schematic shows three wires going to the solenoid harness....pull, hold, and ground. The harness to the solenoid has only two wires which based on my discussion with the dealer and a continuity test seem to be power and ground. When I tested the wires on the three wire side of the harness one was indeed ground, one had power to it 5.4V with machine not running and around 6.3V with machine running. The third wire showed zero voltage. I hooked up the solenoid with the power wire to the red on the solenoid and the ground to the black. Like I said the code is no longer showing but the traction lock remains on. My thought process is now this...1) solenoid is wired correctly but valve is seized in lock position. 2) Solenoid is possibly wired in reverse polarity and is therefore not retracting lock. or 3) The third wire is either a signal or hold wire and does in fact need to be wired in somehow. As a side note the owner has had to jump the starter for some time now and a 22-03 code does show indicating that issue. In addition the alternator does appear to be overcharging at 15.4 at the alternator and 14.8 at the battery....could this effect the traction lock also? The machine has been sitting for over a year and in our climate on the west coast of Canada that does not bode well for electrical systems. I typically work on marine equipment and it is a constant struggle. I apologize for the lengthy explanation but I am just trying to accurately describe the situation. Thank you in advance for any insight any of you might have.
 

jakesol

New Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Campbell River, BC
One correction to my post....voltage at the alternator should have read 15.04V not 15.4....I realise the14.8 at the battery is not exceptionally high but I am not sure how sensitive the machine is to overcharging.....I am going to physically put voltage to the valve and see if I can hear the spool move. I have also now checked voltages at the relay. I do have battery power to the relay but I do not have any signal voltage. I have checked with the parking brake on and off. Presumably I should see voltage in one of the two positions. When the brake is on the traction lock indicator light does go off but I do not see any voltage at the relay. I am unsure if the valve is normally open or closed but regardless I think I should see voltage at the relay to activate it when the parking brake is either in the on or off position. Thanks again
 

jakesol

New Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Campbell River, BC
Welcome to HEF jakesol. :drinkup

What's the machine serial number?

Thanks very much. It is 521911062..

Just to update the situation. When I went to put power to the solenoid directly I noticed that it looked as thought the shaft that the solenoid slips onto appeared bent. I decided to remove the spool from the valve and check it out. It turned out to be quite bent so I looked into getting a replacement and decided to straighten it as best I can while waiting to hear on parts availability. I straightened the spool and re-installed and the machine will move a small distance before shutting down. It is now back to showing the 16-07 code again as well as the 18-06 spool lock coil short to ground. This is consistent with the right pedal now being locked out. I am now gong to re-ohm the traction lock solenoid and also ohm the spool lock. Hope I haven't burnt out the tractioin lock solenoid again.
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,396
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Sounds like you're finding the source of your problem. Magnetic coil solenoids don't like spools that are either hard to pull or won't pull all the way in from spool being bent, put's too much amperage on small areas of the winding as opposed to distributing the magnetic energy evenly throughout the coil, don't be surprised if the bent spool hasn't damaged the coil. Good luck. :drinkup
 

crewchief888

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2012
Messages
1,788
Location
NWI
anything over 15v will cause the controller to shut down.

you may have found the problem with the bent traction lock valve stem.

a speed sensor thats not sending a signal to the controller will also not let the brake release


:drinkup
 

jakesol

New Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Campbell River, BC
So where is that 15V measures at....battery, alternator, starter??? I have resolved the issue to some extent....the harness to the spool lock coil had a rotten pin. That is pretty common on the coast as once the harness seals are somewhat compromised the moisture becomes trapped inside rather than being prevented from entering. I have made a habit of systematically removing harnesses from my vehicles where it is acceptable to do so and in high risk locations. A proper mechanical crimp with good heat shrink is the way to go in our marine environment. When i had the spool out i physically moved it to the brake off position before re installing. The bobcat moves now but the brake is no longer functioning....obviously not a good thing. So it would seem that I do indeedneed a new valve. I am still waiting to hear back on the part and will order it when I do. It does surprise me that the machine is not shutting down with a non-functioning parking brake....I have some ideas on why that is but I think I will keep them to myself as that could be dangerous information to circulate. There are other issues with the machine so don't be surprised if I am back with questions....cheers
 
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