Switching from steel tracks to rubber on a KX 057-4

[aafadca]

Hello everyone.Does anyone know for sure what's needed to switch from steel tracks to rubber on a Kubota 057-4? I've talked to several parts houses and dealers. I've gotten everything from replacing the 4 guides, to it's a direct change with nothing needed. Does anyone know for sure? Someone who may have done this? Thanks

 

[John V]

Parts diagrams show a different recoil spring for rubber vs iron crawler:

https://shop.kubotausa.com/oemparts/a/kub/6606c10dbe51a6c1fd1b7ae1/h10000-idler?lid=6076df584f231b5030d5abc7

Rollers, sprockets, etc appear to be otherwise the same. This is a question that any Kubota dealer should be able to definitively answer for you, even without opening your wallet.

 

[aafadca]

Believe it or not, I got varying answers from different dealers! From they don't know, nothing needs to be changed, to the guides need to be changed. One retailer said nothing needs to be changed, another one wasn't sure! Right now I'm leaning toward just removing the guides......

 

[KenMac]

I don't know if you've checked with McLaren Ind. yet, but they provided the most knowledgable info to me when I was needing tracks.
I purchased from Tractor and Equipment in Birmingham, Alabama and they also were a good source and local to me.

 

[aafadca]

Thanks. I may give them a call

 

[MG84]

Why are you wanting to switch to rubber tracks?

 

[aafadca]

They're on one I'm buying and the rubber would be more useful for me. They're going to change them out and keep the steel ones. Any ideas on best "value"? Meaning the most reasonable for the money. I'm just a homeowner and won't use it commerially.

 

[MG84]

The only place rubber is superior is if you are working on concrete or asphalt, especially on a machine that size. If we were talking about a 3.5t unit I might prefer the rubber tracks. Steel tracks are a very expensive option when new and I think you may be getting the short end of the deal by 'swapping' them for rubber tracks.

Even worse considering you're looking at cheap aftermarket rubber tracks. Your going from steel tracks that should last thousands of hours and rarely, if ever, get thrown, to cheap rubber tracks that won't have 1/4 the life and you'll probably be cussing every time they get thrown off on the side of a hill, etc. IF you must swap to rubber tracks at least buy something decent, preferably OEM, Bridgestone, or the like. Cheap undercarriage parts are false economy, doesn't matter if you're just using it around your place or not.

 

[BC Placer gold]

I also find that (for example) if the machine has to cross a sensitive area (like a lawn...) the steel triple grousers do way less damage. Of course any track will make a mess if turning hard...

Steel tracks in most cases have way more traction.

If rubber definitely should go with Bridgestone. Seems to be a lot of cheap rubber tracks on the market now...most are junk.

By the way we had a KX-040; great machine. That 057 is a great choice! Have fun with it...

 

[aafadca]

The only place rubber is superior is if you are working on concrete or asphalt, especially on a machine that size. If we were talking about a 3.5t unit I might prefer the rubber tracks. Steel tracks are a very expensive option when new and I think you may be getting the short end of the deal by 'swapping' them for rubber tracks.

Even worse considering you're looking at cheap aftermarket rubber tracks. Your going from steel tracks that should last thousands of hours and rarely, if ever, get thrown, to cheap rubber tracks that won't have 1/4 the life and you'll probably be cussing every time they get thrown off on the side of a hill, etc. IF you must swap to rubber tracks at least buy something decent, preferably OEM, Bridgestone, or the like. Cheap undercarriage parts are false economy, doesn't matter if you're just using it around your place or not.

All good points and well taken! I wouldn't necessarily get the cheapest rubber but the best value for the money. Having said that, what about the rubber grousers? The guy also mention those but we weren't sure if they had to be put on every link or if every few links would work. He said he's seen them every few links but wasn't sure if that's normal. That's definitely an option if I don't have to put them on every link. Any opinions, experience? Thanks everybody.

 

[BC Placer gold]

Some call those 'road-liner' pads. I would want them bolted on every grouser myself; have never seen anyone do differently. Could cause a lot of stress on the track chains, traction issues.... can't imagine this would be a good idea!!

I presume your triple grousers have the bolt holes for the pads?

Use really depends on your needs and terrain. The traction of roadliner pads is not good on steep, slippery slopes. I have seen a Kobelco 115 struggle to climb a steep/wet grass covered mining trail which a Hitachi ZX120 climbed easily with the steel grousers...But if your terrain isn't terribly steep or lacks greasy mud/clay could be a viable solution. Road liner pads that I have seen usually seem to be really torn up.

Really the question is: what is your terrain/work requirements?

 

[Tones]

The huge problem with road liner pads is the block the holes in the grouser, they are there to allow any dirt to come out and when that doesn't happens the chain goes real tight when not working on roads

 

[MG84]

Road liner pads are an option, but again, I'd only want them if I were mainly working on concrete or asphalt. They are primarily designed as a more durable option for demolition and other hard use where you still need to track on good pavement. As noted, traction isn't very good, may even be the worst traction of the three (steel vs rubber vs roadliner). They are supposed to go on every pad, although I have seen guys run them on every other.

From your info it says your location is wnc, is that Western North Carolina? If so I'm assuming you're in the mountains? Are you crossing paved driveways frequently? What type of work will you be doing with the machine?

As for the rubber tracks, the most expensive ones may actually be your best value. I know that sounds crazy, but the OEM tracks (or an OEM brand, ie Bridgestone, etc) will outlast most aftermarket tracks by 2-3 times and be far less likely to get thrown off.

 

[BC Placer gold]

We purchased our 2011 Deere 50d with (FACTORY oem) completely worn out rubber tracks: cuts/slices, nasty longitudinal cuts (where a thin 1" strip threatens to rip right off) basically no tread left at all....

My thinking was; just walk it in and if they break then replace, nothing to lose. That was several years ago now. It has done 3 round trips into 2 mining claims---60km, plus working/travelling time onsite. Literally can't make them fail! Haven't even thrown a track. This is in steep, mountainous bedrock laden country.

This anecdotal story (I believe) demonstrates the durability of a factory supplied rubber track...

I owned a Cat 303.5 with new, full tread rubber tracks (from previous owner): looked great, and threw tracks like I have never seen. Also felt very 'flimsy' to the hand....

Also bought a Hitachi ZX27 for a specific job up in the Yukon, it came with 'nice looking' brand new Chinese tracks (no doubt installed by previous owner at the lowest possible cost), very poor/thin, a lot of torsional twisting, easily cut up...These were the 'proverbial' rubber bands.

Just some of my personal experience...Good luck (Kubota makes a really solid machine!)

Keep us posted which way you go.

 

[aafadca]

Road liner pads are an option, but again, I'd only want them if I were mainly working on concrete or asphalt. They are primarily designed as a more durable option for demolition and other hard use where you still need to track on good pavement. As noted, traction isn't very good, may even be the worst traction of the three (steel vs rubber vs roadliner). They are supposed to go on every pad, although I have seen guys run them on every other.

From your info it says your location is wnc, is that Western North Carolina? If so I'm assuming you're in the mountains? Are you crossing paved driveways frequently? What type of work will you be doing with the machine?

As for the rubber tracks, the most expensive ones may actually be your best value. I know that sounds crazy, but the OEM tracks (or an OEM brand, ie Bridgestone, etc) will outlast most aftermarket tracks by 2-3 times and be far less likely to get thrown off.

Yes I'm in the mountains there! Some the work will be on the hillsides but nothing major. I've heard the metal tracks can be harder on the undercarriage. Final drive, etc.? It's still up in the air but I've looked at MccClarens's website. Where's a good place to buy premium pads (Bridgestone, McClaren,oem,etc.) if I go that direction?

 

[MG84]

How many hours are on the machine now? They are designed to run metal tracks, almost every manufacturer on every model larger than ~3 tons offers a metal track option. They are still very common on machines in less developed parts of the world, durability of the finals, etc shouldn't be an issue. What's far more important is keeping the final drive oil changed regularly. That means every engine oil change, which BTW should be every 250hrs, not 500hrs like Kubota now calls for.

Have you priced out OEM rubber tracks from the Kubota dealer? If they are competitive on their parts pricing you should be able to get a set for under $4000.

 

[BC Placer gold]

The Kubota oem would be my choice if going rubber; they sure held up well in tough conditions on our KX-040. That machine got walked at least 80km plus all the working time. Did get some cuts; but that was from razor sharp laminated argillite.

Also, final drive oil changes are super easy on these small machines! Cheap insurance…Cat TO-4 sae 50 is our preference on all our machines.

 

[aafadca]

How many hours are on the machine now? They are designed to run metal tracks, almost every manufacturer on every model larger than ~3 tons offers a metal track option. They are still very common on machines in less developed parts of the world, durability of the finals, etc shouldn't be an issue. What's far more important is keeping the final drive oil changed regularly. That means every engine oil change, which BTW should be every 250hrs, not 500hrs like Kubota now calls for.

Have you priced out OEM rubber tracks from the Kubota dealer? If they are competitive on their parts pricing you should be able to get a set for under $4000.

I think its 3200-3400. Yes the steel tracks were an option. An expensive one! Changing drive oil is one of the first things I plan. I think the owner bought it about a year ago as sort of a backup for his 2 KX 080's. for demolition. Think he got a pretty good deal. But he doesn't need it and it's a little smaller than he needs. So I believe planned maintenance is a good idea.
I haven't checked OEMs yet. I got prices on various aftermarkets. Force, Prowler, Arisun,etc