Stumped

[Danial Doherty]

Ive been grading up to curb alot in the past couple of weeks with my Champion C80c grader with a 10 foot blade. I will try and explain this problem the best i can. When I'm trying to pull any extra material away from the curb i end up running into two problems. The first one is that if i get enough of an angle on my blade to get the material rolling away from the curb i always end up riding my windrow beacuse the blade is so short and the tires are so wide. the second problem is when i adjust it so that the windrow will clear my back tires its never enough angle on my blade to get the material moving away from the curb and end up having gravel spill back onto the curb....

is there another way i can go about this?

 

[Dwan Hall]

Can you set your blade to deposit the windrow between the tires?

 

[Danial Doherty]

No i cant do that either. you can only angle the blade so much before it stops for some reason and if you extend the blade all the way in one direction i still wont allow the windrow to go between your tires

 

[Turbo21835]

So you cant shift the blade out farther? Not sure on the little graders, but if you can shift the circle out, keep the steep angle on the blade and deposit the material between your drives. The other option is to leave your other side as far up as possible, and dig your other side in steep, thus leaving the material between the drives again. You may have to undercut your grade a little bit, and after you get the material away from the curb, you can row just enough material back to the curb line. A final option is to not cut right against the curb, and cut 4-6 inches away from the curb, then come back on the next pass and pull the rest of the material away from the curb.

 

[curb slayer]

No i cant do that either. you can only angle the blade so much before it stops for some reason and if you extend the blade all the way in one direction i still wont allow the windrow to go between your tires

hi danial,try using your articulation.Run your front tyres against your curb and off set your rear end away from your curb and the windrow should run between your tyres.What that little grader like ,does it still push a full blade of rock, are you happy its performance

 

[Danial Doherty]

Hey!! Thanks curb slayer... im going to try that out but i dont think that it would work since this grader articualtes in the front of the cab instead of the back and the blade will only swing so far before it hits those bumpers and wont go any farther. I cant really get my head around how the it will effect that blade angle without actually being in the machine! that will be the first thing i do monday morning when i get back ! lol

As for a machine review i think its great for floor slabs, small parking lots and drive ways. it will carry a full blade full of material no problem as long as its spread right. I find when its spread really thick it can be a real challenge to get things moving. All the more experienced guys seem to think that the 6 wheel drive version would have been the better choice and they all seem to think that the blade is too short and a 1 foot extension would be a great help. Its very very bouncy if you have to travel it anywhere on the road but it is fairly fast, will blow pretty much any backhoe off the road lol.
This is the only grader ive spent any amount of time in so i cant really compare it to anything else but over all i like it! Interested in getting one??

 

[Grader4me]

Ive been grading up to curb alot in the past couple of weeks with my Champion C80c grader with a 10 foot blade. I will try and explain this problem the best i can. When I'm trying to pull any extra material away from the curb i end up running into two problems. The first one is that if i get enough of an angle on my blade to get the material rolling away from the curb i always end up riding my windrow beacuse the blade is so short and the tires are so wide. the second problem is when i adjust it so that the windrow will clear my back tires its never enough angle on my blade to get the material moving away from the curb and end up having gravel spill back onto the curb....

is there another way i can go about this?

Hi Danial! Having fun yet? lol. Tilt your blade back, this will allow you to square up a bit and have your material roll out past your rear tires. By doing this no material will spill out next to your curb. You're learning buddy..keep it up!!

 

[Danial Doherty]

thanks grader4me! rolling your blade back does help get the material off the curb! i find when its rolled forward it likes to stick to the curb when you touch it, its not so bad when its rolled back!

when you guys are going along a curb is there any raking that needs to be done after? or is it a nice clean on grade cut that does not need to be touched??

 

[Grader4me]

You're welcome Danial

 

[Finish Blademan]

thanks grader4me! rolling your blade back does help get the material off the curb! i find when its rolled forward it likes to stick to the curb when you touch it, its not so bad when its rolled back!

when you guys are going along a curb is there any raking that needs to be done after? or is it a nice clean on grade cut that does not need to be touched??

If you put your base in right,high and wet up to the top of curb,when you cut it there should be no raking and no rock pockets,just a nice hard product on your edges.
I use a few laborers to go along and clean anything that escapes the blade on the curb.
Usually I will lay my mouldboard up on the curb(be frickin careful if you are gonna attempt this,you can skin a curb up in a heartbeat if you aren`t 100 percent sure of what you are doing) and pull of the loose bones .Then make one more passwith my mouldboard simply pulling out anything loose that got away from the mouldboard.

 

[tripper_174]

If you are doing this work all the time then get a two foot extension. Makes life so much easier. You can follow your grade much better if you are building a street or parking lot. You can move a much larger volume of material with a 12 foot moldboard as you can get a sharper angle on your moldboard. It takes no more room than a 10 foot as you can get that sharp angle and still get it past the tandems. For most work a 10 footer makes the material push forward more like a dozer than roll as it should with a grader.

I used to operate an old Huber grader that looked more like a long tractor. It too had a moldboard that was too short to get the windrow past the rear wheel. The only answer for it was to side shift the moldboard to the inside of the front tire and ride that tire on the curb. Actually worked very well.

 

[Motor Grader]

Danial,

Bryan Abernathy here from the Champion Factory. I understand your problem. Sometimes the fact that our circle doesn't rotate 360 degrees creates a problem in that you can't run the angle steep enough to get the material inside the tires. This also depends on the material as you know some stuff rolls down the blade better than others. I do have a 2 part solution that I did on a Municipal Customer of ours. Part A involved allowing the moldboard to slide 18” further to the right. This allowed the windrow to fall in between the tires. Part B was a little more involved and I actually designed a front mounted attachment that relocated the front axle 25” more forward. This was required because we were cutting thick grass/dirt from high shoulders along the road. I don’t think it would be required if all your doing is moving stone. So now would be a great time to include some pics but I just realized they are on a jump drive at home so I will have to post later. I will say that the final product turned out just awesome and when you make a bunch of municipal operators and foremen happy then you know you have accomplished something. I think the pics will be worth a thousand words so keep watching for them. Also, if you want to discuss this further then feel free to call my cell at 704-507-1366. Other than that I really hope your grader is doing you a great job. Thanks