thejdman04
Senior Member
Id look hard at a 390 stihl
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Stihl Chain Saw
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nedly05
Senior Member
I just had a 575XP burn up on me, and a 353 that was close to burning up from the ethanol in the gas. They told me always run high test (which I do) only mix 1 gallon at a time, keep it sealed up tight so no moitsure can get at it, and dont keep it more that 45 days. I guess the ethanol will suck moisture out of the air, then the moisture gets in your can and seperates the ethanol from the gas, the saw gets ahold of the straight ethanol and it burns up your motor. They told me it would cost about $350 +/- to fix the 575. I only paid $400 for it used so I was between a rock and a hard spot. I ended up tradign the both saws and got a MS361 stihl. I really wanted to have a big saw and a small saw but I ended up splitting the difference. At work we have an 046, and a 262 husky, also a couple litttle saws, so I have access to enough saws. I guess the point of this rant is that I went with a 361 stihl. LOL!! Keep your gas new and dry!!!
Wolfcsm
Well-Known Member
Stihl is a very good saw. They are pricy, but you get what you pay for. The 361 is a great saw. Had the chance to run two of them last year at an Arboristsite Get Together.
I run a 310 and a 660. With the 361 and a 24" bar you can do just about anything you need to, based on your requirements above. A 28 or 32" bar will need to be run more slowly but it will pull the length.
Taken care of, a Stihl should last for many years. I see 25 year old 090 Stihls that cost more now than they did new.
Hal
nedley,
i was always told never to run ethanol in chainsaws. i know it is getting harder to find, but i drive 30mi to a gas station that carries non-ethanol blends. same principals as not using E85 in a non approved vehicle, eats up rubber hoses and gaskets. also has a different burn charateristic. anybody else ever been told this?
my fuel mix, a chainsaw mechanic friend told me about:
30CC Amsoil 2stroke synthetic oil/gal
10CC Seafoam/gal
5CC Amsoil fuel stabiliser/gal
i know it is more like 100/1 mix, but he claimed (no ill result yet): better lube, cleaner burn and more power since more fuel and less oil.
i was always told never to run ethanol in chainsaws. i know it is getting harder to find, but i drive 30mi to a gas station that carries non-ethanol blends. same principals as not using E85 in a non approved vehicle, eats up rubber hoses and gaskets. also has a different burn charateristic. anybody else ever been told this?
my fuel mix, a chainsaw mechanic friend told me about:
30CC Amsoil 2stroke synthetic oil/gal
10CC Seafoam/gal
5CC Amsoil fuel stabiliser/gal
i know it is more like 100/1 mix, but he claimed (no ill result yet): better lube, cleaner burn and more power since more fuel and less oil.
Farmall953
Active Member
I think stihls are the way to go ive got a few different ones including a 034, MS170, MS270,009L, 020 (2). They all work great and a few of them are at least 25 years old. Get a stihl they last forever
bear
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Messages
- 541
- Location
- South Central Kentucky
- Occupation
- Math, Physics, keeping out of trouble and doing od
Stilh ok I guess...
I'll stick with my Husqvarna saws personally. They are lighter and cut much faster when going against two saws classed the same (mostly haven't ran all of 'em). If getting a Stihl general rule of thumb is an even numbered saw will generally last longer (pro series ) I've got 7 saws right now (for some reason when a family member dies or quits doing things i wind up being the recipient of stuff sometimes usefull sometimes.. :crying :dizzy :lmao ) 4 are Huskys 2 are stihl and the other one is an old lombard. I use the Huskys more than the others because of the above reasons. I'm very particular and exacting with the maintenance of my stuff and the old lombard saw still runs and cuts with the best (IF you can stand the bleeding loud thing it kills me with hearing protection, plugs and muffs with a muffler on).
Ultimately if you like one brand beter than the other just match the saw to your work. Go to your local saw shop (where the pros in your area go) and talk to some of the sales staff and their customers and see what they have to say. You can find an opinion good or bad for every saw. Good luck and send some pictures when you get it. :drinkup
I'll stick with my Husqvarna saws personally. They are lighter and cut much faster when going against two saws classed the same (mostly haven't ran all of 'em). If getting a Stihl general rule of thumb is an even numbered saw will generally last longer (pro series ) I've got 7 saws right now (for some reason when a family member dies or quits doing things i wind up being the recipient of stuff sometimes usefull sometimes.. :crying :dizzy :lmao ) 4 are Huskys 2 are stihl and the other one is an old lombard. I use the Huskys more than the others because of the above reasons. I'm very particular and exacting with the maintenance of my stuff and the old lombard saw still runs and cuts with the best (IF you can stand the bleeding loud thing it kills me with hearing protection, plugs and muffs with a muffler on).
Ultimately if you like one brand beter than the other just match the saw to your work. Go to your local saw shop (where the pros in your area go) and talk to some of the sales staff and their customers and see what they have to say. You can find an opinion good or bad for every saw. Good luck and send some pictures when you get it. :drinkup
basspro
Well-Known Member
I worked for the USFS for years, operating saw. I liked the 044 & 046, with a 24-28 skip it never seemed to run out of power. & I like to run the rakers down just a little. I ran full comp 24insh on our 44, & it was OK, exept at higher elevation. We kept a 36" skip & used it for felling larger stuff, & the 44 was ok, with the 46 being better. We got a 066, & it had tons of power, but, for the amount of hiking we did, I prefered the 44 or 46, & just slow down the cut a little bit.
With that said. We also used Husky 272, 391(2), & a larger 394. All were lighter then the Stihl, but were really poor at high elevation. I prefer 24 or 28 inch bar, as kneeling down all day to limb is not my idea of enjoyable, & I did not have to swap out a longer bar to fell most trees. Also, it seems to be wighed better, as in holding the saw by the handlebar, it would be almost level, making it easy to sight, & set up my 1st & back cuts.
As you can tell my exp. is (now) with older saws, but those might be in your budget, as a used 044 should be fairly cheap.
With that said. We also used Husky 272, 391(2), & a larger 394. All were lighter then the Stihl, but were really poor at high elevation. I prefer 24 or 28 inch bar, as kneeling down all day to limb is not my idea of enjoyable, & I did not have to swap out a longer bar to fell most trees. Also, it seems to be wighed better, as in holding the saw by the handlebar, it would be almost level, making it easy to sight, & set up my 1st & back cuts.
As you can tell my exp. is (now) with older saws, but those might be in your budget, as a used 044 should be fairly cheap.
The only Stihl I owned was a used pro model. Even though it was only about a year old, it had seen heavy use cutting pulp and was worn out. I'm sure the Stihls are good if one buys a new pro model; a lot of people like them. From that I went to a Partner, which was a real piece of junk.
Then I bought a new Husqvarna. It's about thirty years old now. Although it only averages about 75 or 100 hours a year of use, over thirty years that's a lot of hours. It's taken a few spark plugs, a new pull cord, and quite a few chains over the years. And I ran over it with my pickup once; after a little straightening of the handle, (metal back in those days) one would never know. The engine has never been opened up, and it still runs great with lots of power. Just have to keep that small, long screwdriver handy to adjust the Hi and Lo screws once in a while.
Oh yeah, and the Husqvarna may have saved my life once. A dead aspen about 10 inches in diameter fell on a power line (truth be known, I accidentally dropped it on the power line:Banghead). So, thinking that dry wood will not transmit electricity, I started to cut through the leaning tree from underneath, at about four feet from the ground. The bar made it an inch or two into the tree, but I dropped the saw when I felt the electricity go up both arms. Had the saw not had those good anti-vibration rubber mounts, I might not be typing this today. Dry felt pack rubber boots also helped. Apparently, even dry wood conducts 14,000 volts very well. A little while later, the snow melted away from the stump and electricity started arcing from the tree to nearby buck brush.
Then I bought a new Husqvarna. It's about thirty years old now. Although it only averages about 75 or 100 hours a year of use, over thirty years that's a lot of hours. It's taken a few spark plugs, a new pull cord, and quite a few chains over the years. And I ran over it with my pickup once; after a little straightening of the handle, (metal back in those days) one would never know. The engine has never been opened up, and it still runs great with lots of power. Just have to keep that small, long screwdriver handy to adjust the Hi and Lo screws once in a while.
Oh yeah, and the Husqvarna may have saved my life once. A dead aspen about 10 inches in diameter fell on a power line (truth be known, I accidentally dropped it on the power line:Banghead). So, thinking that dry wood will not transmit electricity, I started to cut through the leaning tree from underneath, at about four feet from the ground. The bar made it an inch or two into the tree, but I dropped the saw when I felt the electricity go up both arms. Had the saw not had those good anti-vibration rubber mounts, I might not be typing this today. Dry felt pack rubber boots also helped. Apparently, even dry wood conducts 14,000 volts very well. A little while later, the snow melted away from the stump and electricity started arcing from the tree to nearby buck brush.
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EZ TRBO
Senior Member
I have an OLD Stilh Farmboss which is over 30 years old, running it with a 20" bar and 90% of the time worked great for firewood cutting and such. Have cut many trees with a larger dia. as well, just took a bit more time to do it. Finally a few years ago, the FB was in the shop and dad needed a saw NOW and decided to buy a newer one. Went with the MS360. Very very nice saw, cuts faster and has taken care of everything I need for the trees and firewood I cut. When cutting on the river for spring clean up we(firedept) has 2 MS290's and a handful of us usually bring along our own saws if needed.
Never been around the Husky's but know a few that have ran them for years and cut tons of firewood and love em. Thats bout the only ones I see around at all, when you have a good Stilh dealer in town its bit easier to go with that.
Trbo
Never been around the Husky's but know a few that have ran them for years and cut tons of firewood and love em. Thats bout the only ones I see around at all, when you have a good Stilh dealer in town its bit easier to go with that.
Trbo
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30 dirty years
Well-Known Member
2000 7.3 6speed
Member
I have a stihl ms 361 and it's a great saw I have a 18 and 25 in bar for it great all around saw. I around 15 to 20 cords last year with it.
Wolfcsm
Well-Known Member
I added a new (to me) saw last week. A MS 880 Magnum with a 48 inch bar. Not really practical for what I do but sure a lot of fun to run that monster.
Hal
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dozerdave
Well-Known Member
I have 2 Husky saws, don't remember the model but 1 size down from the biggest one. Both with 32" bars because bending over to limb kills my old back. The Husky dealer was a super guy and would work all night to get a saw running again. Most of the loggers in the area purchased their saws from him because of his service. Big saws are like big dozers, when you open the throttle things begin to happens.
agricat
Member
For a good deal, the Stihl 650 is just a bit smaller than a 660 but hundreds less. Yup HUNDREDS!!!!!!!!! Go to a few dealers and look for one with dust on it. He can't move it, ego wins and folks go for the 660.
There are 2 reasons to use Hi test gas. Stihl says so. And Stihl says so. I realize this is these are the same reason, but it is Damn important.
They are tuned for it and they run great with it. Folks will say it does not matter, if so' their saws are tuned wrong and running less than they could.
And Stihl says so. I learned the hard way, boy did that saw wake up.
There are 2 reasons to use Hi test gas. Stihl says so. And Stihl says so. I realize this is these are the same reason, but it is Damn important.
They are tuned for it and they run great with it. Folks will say it does not matter, if so' their saws are tuned wrong and running less than they could.
And Stihl says so. I learned the hard way, boy did that saw wake up.
truecountry
Senior Member
ms 390 stihl is great saw i have 2 at home and 3 at work
I also agree with stihl as being a great saw, have a 390 and 250. The only thing I do to all my saws is the mufffler mod. Lets the saw run much cooler {=longer life} and gives them a little more hp. The forestry forum has a boat load of info.
Pootermagavin
Member
I just bought an MS390 with a 25" bar. I love this saw.A little heavy but not to bad.
NHGus
Active Member
Stihl saws have always done well by me, very reliable and pretty tough; that said I've never had any issues with any Husky stuff, the Stihl is just more familiar/comfortable to me. I learned on a Stihl 036 which was passed down to me from my father that I still use regularly. I've also put in quite a few hours behind an 064(pre 066), excellent saw with great power. I picked up a MS-361 a couple years ago, great for smaller jobs, lightweight, very reliable so far, but a bit of a dog in comparison to the bigger saws. Try out a bunch of saws, Stihl, Husky, Johnsered, etc and pick which ever one you like.