DirtHauler
Senior Member
I am not familiar with how much a Platinums is but i hope it was a great price. (is that some kind of a beer reference?)
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Spoke/Dayton wheels
- Thread starter Effinay
- Start date
Greg
Senior Member
You better tell us what "12 Platinums" are there torquedoff.
For $500.00 you could probably buy the whole spoke new all most.
I remember the April 27, 2011 F-5 which hit you guys. I have a good friend who is a contractor in Irondale, Al which is very close to Birmingham. One of his guys lost mother-in-law and two sisters-in-laws in that one. My friend's yard and shop was spared from the storm.
Hats off to you for helping in the volunteer effort to clean-up after the storm. People in situation like need and deserve all the help they can get.
I had opportunity to help after disaster one time, did it no charge. Makes you feel good inside when it is done and the people really appreciate it.
I gather that the "Platinums" fee from the machine shop maybe had something to do with the volunteer work.
If that is the case and the "Platinums" fee is something like a "twelve pack" than that goes to show that there are still people around who will make sure that a "good deed can still go UNpunihsed."
For $500.00 you could probably buy the whole spoke new all most.
I remember the April 27, 2011 F-5 which hit you guys. I have a good friend who is a contractor in Irondale, Al which is very close to Birmingham. One of his guys lost mother-in-law and two sisters-in-laws in that one. My friend's yard and shop was spared from the storm.
Hats off to you for helping in the volunteer effort to clean-up after the storm. People in situation like need and deserve all the help they can get.
I had opportunity to help after disaster one time, did it no charge. Makes you feel good inside when it is done and the people really appreciate it.
I gather that the "Platinums" fee from the machine shop maybe had something to do with the volunteer work.
If that is the case and the "Platinums" fee is something like a "twelve pack" than that goes to show that there are still people around who will make sure that a "good deed can still go UNpunihsed."
torquedoff
Member
Platinums refers to Bud Light Platinums so yes I got off real easy. I was gonna try another machine shop if they held to the $500 minimum. Having said that Scott was willing to machine a new pattern offset from the first if we didn't get the stud out. I mention that in case someone else reading the thread is out of options with broken studs.
Greg sorry to hear about the deaths in Irondale. We have worked a three sites with fatalities, all heart breaking stories. And like you said, they need all the help they can get. Equally amazing are the surviver stories: We demolishoned the remainder of a home that only had two interior walls and a bathub remaining, the owner was in the bathub. I asked her how scared she was and she said it wasn't, she knew the Lord was gonna save her. Then she added ' but I did cry when they towed my old Dodge Truck'. She was a neat old lady. Have gotten to meet tons of great people volunteering.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3BvWU92N7or8wX7N5SF4mG0rfFAXZWX2ozfcYKZQZlI?feat=directlink
Picture of one of our sites with fatality.
Greg sorry to hear about the deaths in Irondale. We have worked a three sites with fatalities, all heart breaking stories. And like you said, they need all the help they can get. Equally amazing are the surviver stories: We demolishoned the remainder of a home that only had two interior walls and a bathub remaining, the owner was in the bathub. I asked her how scared she was and she said it wasn't, she knew the Lord was gonna save her. Then she added ' but I did cry when they towed my old Dodge Truck'. She was a neat old lady. Have gotten to meet tons of great people volunteering.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3BvWU92N7or8wX7N5SF4mG0rfFAXZWX2ozfcYKZQZlI?feat=directlink
Picture of one of our sites with fatality.
honestherman
New Member
I have the same Dayton System on my Truck. I have 900 x 20 tires on split rim wheels. Tires are in great shape. But when I start to ask around about mounting a new tire for a spare. I get the guys at tire shop Crying about Split rims. Actually I will never load my truck to capacity, So I was thinking about going with a Tubeless rim that I can mount Tubeless tires on this truck. I have seen some newer truck have 20" Tubeless LT Tires on them.
Since there are so many of us with Dayton System. Is there any option to get rid of the split rim. Or maybe they just have a lock ring on them.
Can you give me any info on where I can get different wheels?
H
Since there are so many of us with Dayton System. Is there any option to get rid of the split rim. Or maybe they just have a lock ring on them.
Can you give me any info on where I can get different wheels?
H
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
Old thread here may be of interest to O/P. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?28506-Spoke-Dayton-wheels
I must say that after many thousands of miles running these wheels on gravel roads I believe torqueing under such conditions a complete and utter waste of time . . . just tighten them true to the hammer with(say) a three quarter breaker bar and then after ten miles and again at fifty, more than likely you'll get a bit more every time . . . and check them next morning when they're cool . . . and again every chance you can . . . it used to be part of the job called "truck driving" as was fixing punctures and lashing tarps and loads with ropes.
A torque wrench has its place but, in my opinion tightening what are known in the US as "Daytons" is not one of them . . . too many variables of rust and dust and different friction on the wedges.
That style of wheel is the only type I've known on the drive or trailers and is a simple proven system that served me very well.
Cheers.
Old thread here may be of interest to O/P. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?28506-Spoke-Dayton-wheels
I must say that after many thousands of miles running these wheels on gravel roads I believe torqueing under such conditions a complete and utter waste of time . . . just tighten them true to the hammer with(say) a three quarter breaker bar and then after ten miles and again at fifty, more than likely you'll get a bit more every time . . . and check them next morning when they're cool . . . and again every chance you can . . . it used to be part of the job called "truck driving" as was fixing punctures and lashing tarps and loads with ropes.
A torque wrench has its place but, in my opinion tightening what are known in the US as "Daytons" is not one of them . . . too many variables of rust and dust and different friction on the wedges.
That style of wheel is the only type I've known on the drive or trailers and is a simple proven system that served me very well.
Cheers.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Nice resurrect, Scrub. Hopefully Grandpa doesn't think I ripped him off with my post on the other thread. My dad and I ran spokes for about 15 years. Then we got stud-pilots and thought we were in heaven. When hub-pilots came out, everything was right in the world, EXCEPT for the price on outboard brake drums for stud-pilot wheels. SMH
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
Gotcha Shimmy1. I liked the simplicity, inner, spacer, outer . . . then lug it up and tighten.
Cheers.
Gotcha Shimmy1. I liked the simplicity, inner, spacer, outer . . . then lug it up and tighten.
Cheers.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
True enough, but with Budds you're never going to feel that little "whoops", and then that sinking feeling that your day just went to hell because you forgot to recheck the lugs for the tenth time.
If the Dayton rims are rust pitted at all where they contact the hub, throw the rim away and buy a new one, I'd never buy a used Dayton rim no matter how cheap they are, had a few blow off trailers, and one blow off when changing the tire and rim, luckily nobody was killed or even injured. They blow apart in the center of the rim, usually from rust where they contact the hub, and half the rim will blow off the trailer and the other half that is held on with the wedges will still be there on the hub. Be careful changing the tires if its been a while since they have been off, we usually deflate the tires to eliminate the explosion hazard of a rusted rim, once the air is out of the tire, they are harmless to deal with and can't blow up. Just thought I'd mention this to those not familiar with Dayton wheels.
We use anti seize on the hubs so the rims don't rust on so badly, this works for the wheels spacer rings as well, only once have we had to remove the tires and torch the rims off in pieces to get them off, we gave up trying to remove the rims, a porta power and cylinder wouldn't get them off either. We try to rotate tires on all Dayton wheels ever few years, if for nothing else so if we have to remove them we can actually get them off with not much struggle.
I keep forgetting to ask the dot if its true or not, but I've been told that Dayton rims have a date on them, and after 15 years, they are illegal to run and won't pass inspection no matter the condition they are in, anyone know if this is true or not?? Do as you wish, but I'd never buy a used Dayton rim, no matter how cheap they are, less than 100 bucks buys a new one, I'd never paint one either, I'd throw it away long before it needs painting.
We use anti seize on the hubs so the rims don't rust on so badly, this works for the wheels spacer rings as well, only once have we had to remove the tires and torch the rims off in pieces to get them off, we gave up trying to remove the rims, a porta power and cylinder wouldn't get them off either. We try to rotate tires on all Dayton wheels ever few years, if for nothing else so if we have to remove them we can actually get them off with not much struggle.
I keep forgetting to ask the dot if its true or not, but I've been told that Dayton rims have a date on them, and after 15 years, they are illegal to run and won't pass inspection no matter the condition they are in, anyone know if this is true or not?? Do as you wish, but I'd never buy a used Dayton rim, no matter how cheap they are, less than 100 bucks buys a new one, I'd never paint one either, I'd throw it away long before it needs painting.
redneckchevy9
Well-Known Member
I've never heard that one...but I do know there are dates on all mine. 7/26/96 sooooooooo that 15yrs is past.
If you can get ahold of the dot, call and ask them, and report back here if there is any truth to it if you would, not saying its the truth, only stating what I've been told by a few tire shops, but then again they sell new rims.
I think maybe you should clarify that a little. Just because it's a Dayton wheel doesn't mean that it has the big 'snap ring'. There are a lot of trucks and trailers running Dayton wheels with tubeless tires on them (no snap ring). The tubeless rims don't present any danger that I know of.
Snap ring has nothing to do with it, on a Dayton rim, it rides on the spoke of the hub, five or six spokes usually and where the rim and spoke meet, it tends to rust pit and weaken the rim, if you've ever taken the rims off and found rust pits on the rim, where they were mounted on the hubs, they have a tendency to come apart along the center line of the rim all the way around, with air in them, the rim can and has before blown apart. One rim half will be inside the tire and blown off the trailer, the other rim half will be clamped onto the spoke hub or if you have the wedge locks off, rusted to the hub after the other rim half blows off the trailer.
On a budd wheel, the hub center in the rim and rim are one piece, bolts bolt the whole assembly to the hub, nothing in contact of pressure is anywhere near anything rusted thin or rust pitted that can weaken the rim anywhere.
We've taken Dayton rims off before that were so rust pitted, once off, you could see where it was attached to the hub, after sand blasting the rims, holes were literally blown through the rim where the rim sat on the Dayton spoke hubs.
All tire shops near me will after getting the rims off, check to feel or see for pitting on rims, if there is any visible, the rim will be thrown away and your forced to buy a new Dayton rim to mount back up, no matter how old the rim is.
Not sure I described it well enough or not, but if not, let me know and I'll try again.
On a budd wheel, the hub center in the rim and rim are one piece, bolts bolt the whole assembly to the hub, nothing in contact of pressure is anywhere near anything rusted thin or rust pitted that can weaken the rim anywhere.
We've taken Dayton rims off before that were so rust pitted, once off, you could see where it was attached to the hub, after sand blasting the rims, holes were literally blown through the rim where the rim sat on the Dayton spoke hubs.
All tire shops near me will after getting the rims off, check to feel or see for pitting on rims, if there is any visible, the rim will be thrown away and your forced to buy a new Dayton rim to mount back up, no matter how old the rim is.
Not sure I described it well enough or not, but if not, let me know and I'll try again.
Randy88
I miss interpreted your post and evidently had my mind set on those stupid PITA snap rings. My bad!!!!
Trying to upload photo's, not sure what happened to some, maybe they'll show up soon.
The first and second photo's are off the same truck, Dayton wheels and where my finger is at, is where it rusts bad enough to blow the rim in half after enough age.
The third photo is of a rim we cut apart for another project and is what is left of it, I included it for the purpose of showing how the rim splits in half, there was another photo that got lost somewhere, not sure where it went, but it showed on the cut apart rim where instead of where I did cut it apart, where it actually blows apart.
Forth photo is of a Dayton rim outside, not sure I uploaded it, but its there just the same, the last photo in that page shows where the spoke wedges are marked on the rim, nothing wrong with this rim, just all the rest were so rusty to show it all.
The first and second photo's are off the same truck, Dayton wheels and where my finger is at, is where it rusts bad enough to blow the rim in half after enough age.
The third photo is of a rim we cut apart for another project and is what is left of it, I included it for the purpose of showing how the rim splits in half, there was another photo that got lost somewhere, not sure where it went, but it showed on the cut apart rim where instead of where I did cut it apart, where it actually blows apart.
Forth photo is of a Dayton rim outside, not sure I uploaded it, but its there just the same, the last photo in that page shows where the spoke wedges are marked on the rim, nothing wrong with this rim, just all the rest were so rusty to show it all.
First photo on the second page shows where they blow apart over time and with enough rust.
The last photo's are of the same rim, damaged in a collision and no need to cut apart before going to scrap, just haven't gotten around to hauling them to scrap yet, have a few of these laying around.
You can see in the photo's what rust will do with the rim, this rim and a few more were tossed in the junk heap due to not being safe anymore, even if they weren't in a collision, they'd have gone to scrap, nobody would work on them anyhow, we deflate the tires to make them safe to take off.
There were more photo's that never showed up, or have yet, all showed the amount of rust in the rim and also a newer rim with the date stamped in it, might try to upload that again, none of these junk rims the date could be read, anything needing sandblasting gets scrapped anyhow, we never sand blast and paint any rims ever.
I used to have several Dayton rims that actually blew apart, had both halves for over a decade to show people what happens when they blow.
We had one blow apart while taking it off the trailer, nobody got hurt and ever since we deflate them, another blew off a trailer years ago, blew so hard, going 40 mph it skidded the blown tire perfectly sideways on the road, flat spotted the tire to the cords as it slid across the pavement sideways, went out across the road and ended up about 300 feet perfectly sideways to where it came off the trailer out in a corn field, the other half of the rim was still held on the trailer with the wedge locks. Those were tube tires 15 inch with the lock ring turned into the trailer, the lock ring and rim portion were still on the trailer when I got stopped, never even loosened up the lock ring on the rim, when we took the rest of the rims off that trailer, and took the tires off the rims, you could see daylight through the rims via the rust holes, while on the trailer they looked fine.
I've been told several stories over the years about when to take the Dayton rims off, one is by date, anything over 15 years is no longer dot allowed, another is when you can't read the date on the rim, you put new rims on, they won't pass dot inspection, another is if the rim is rusty and needs paint, they are considered junk. I've been told that where the wedge contacts the rim, if there is any rust pitting, no matter how the rim looks your supposed to change them for new, like I said earlier I have no idea what's true, or fiction or just a way to sell new rims, basically I don't care, no 90 dollar rim is worth an injury or life, I buy them about 6 at a time new and replace as needed.
If it were not for the bent rim in the first few photo's of the second page, the junk yard would resell those rusty rims to someone to sand blast and repaint, the reason why I usually cut them up or cut enough out of the rim so nobody would ever repair them.
The last photo's are of the same rim, damaged in a collision and no need to cut apart before going to scrap, just haven't gotten around to hauling them to scrap yet, have a few of these laying around.
You can see in the photo's what rust will do with the rim, this rim and a few more were tossed in the junk heap due to not being safe anymore, even if they weren't in a collision, they'd have gone to scrap, nobody would work on them anyhow, we deflate the tires to make them safe to take off.
There were more photo's that never showed up, or have yet, all showed the amount of rust in the rim and also a newer rim with the date stamped in it, might try to upload that again, none of these junk rims the date could be read, anything needing sandblasting gets scrapped anyhow, we never sand blast and paint any rims ever.
I used to have several Dayton rims that actually blew apart, had both halves for over a decade to show people what happens when they blow.
We had one blow apart while taking it off the trailer, nobody got hurt and ever since we deflate them, another blew off a trailer years ago, blew so hard, going 40 mph it skidded the blown tire perfectly sideways on the road, flat spotted the tire to the cords as it slid across the pavement sideways, went out across the road and ended up about 300 feet perfectly sideways to where it came off the trailer out in a corn field, the other half of the rim was still held on the trailer with the wedge locks. Those were tube tires 15 inch with the lock ring turned into the trailer, the lock ring and rim portion were still on the trailer when I got stopped, never even loosened up the lock ring on the rim, when we took the rest of the rims off that trailer, and took the tires off the rims, you could see daylight through the rims via the rust holes, while on the trailer they looked fine.
I've been told several stories over the years about when to take the Dayton rims off, one is by date, anything over 15 years is no longer dot allowed, another is when you can't read the date on the rim, you put new rims on, they won't pass dot inspection, another is if the rim is rusty and needs paint, they are considered junk. I've been told that where the wedge contacts the rim, if there is any rust pitting, no matter how the rim looks your supposed to change them for new, like I said earlier I have no idea what's true, or fiction or just a way to sell new rims, basically I don't care, no 90 dollar rim is worth an injury or life, I buy them about 6 at a time new and replace as needed.
If it were not for the bent rim in the first few photo's of the second page, the junk yard would resell those rusty rims to someone to sand blast and repaint, the reason why I usually cut them up or cut enough out of the rim so nobody would ever repair them.
I had a few photo's of budd wheels on one of my trucks, don't know what happened to them, they didn't show up on here, but with budds, the center section where the bolts are help to eliminate the rust issue and add strength to the rim in the most critical point, in the first few photo's of the first page, where my finger is on the Dayton's, with budds, those are strengthened with the bolt plate that's welded to the rim all the way around or that's what I've been told by the rim dealer near me as an explanation to why budd's are not plagued with this problem. I might try to upload those again to show what I was trying to describe.
Not sure if this helps but I thought photo's couldn't hurt.
Not sure if this helps but I thought photo's couldn't hurt.