Snowplowing & CAT F-N-R Switch

[Nige]

It was a little disappointing to say the least. It makes me wonder if they did hook up ET and updated but erased the previous data.
Hard to say, anyway going forward, I think my best bet is to have a Tech come out and try the "type 2" switch and diagnose the pedal
at the same time. I tried the calibration half a dozen times to no avail.

That is why I always insist that the first thing a dealer tech does before attempting anything is to download a Product Status Report. Then if things go pear-shaped later anyone can look at what's on the machine now and compare it with the settings that were on the machine when he started.

FYI - Updating generally erases previous versions of stored data, and also can erase some settings. That's why it's always SOP to download a PSR before starting so that any selectable parameters can be reconfigured after upgrading to whatever setting they had before upgrading, if that makes sense.

I wasn't sure if the procedure I gave you above would fix the left pedal position sensor although I had my fingers crossed that it would.

Here's the procedure for calibrating the left pedal position sensor using ET which will be the most likely way a dealer tech would do it.
He will need to bring with him either a 198-4240 Digital Pressure Indicator or a 1U-5481 Pressure Gauge Group (aka transmission test box) plus the test hose kit.

 

[alaskaforby4]

Hello Again,
When I'm operating this thing, the engine temp needle is about one needle mark past half. So about 5/8 on the gauge. I would think strait up would be normal position? When I stop operation it will drop to the vertical position. I was roading it the otherday going up a fairly long grade and it rose a bit higher, not quite 3/4. I pulled off and it dropped down quickly. Temp here has been around 25*F

I was reading one of your earlier posts about a slow fan and plugged screen https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...slowly-coolant-overheating.61076/#post-650093
I found the attatched picture of the hyd. fan drive with a screen in it, (#8) may this be the screen you were talking about getting possibly full of debris? Where is its location?

Maybe its nothing, I was hoping to do some self diagnostic, then have Cat take a look at fan speed/pressure with ET when they come out. When you shut the machine down is it normal for the hydraulic fan to make a loud ish whining sound as it winds down?
The selling cat dealer replaced the thermostat in the 6000 hr service, the paint on the bolts was chipped off and the cab heater lines were still closed on the waterpump, so I'm somewhat sure they did it.

 

[Nige]

Answers to your questions: -
1. Gauge needle pointing straight up is not necessarily "normal" position. This was always the old-school thinking but today not so much.
2. The whrring noise as the fan shuts down is normal. The pump that drives it has stopped, the motr driving it has a way of being able to freewheel after the oil supply to the motor stops.
3. Location of the manifold containing the screen is inside the RH chassis rail. See illustrations below. that screen is known to be a problem area if it gets plugged. Take a look at it yourself before calling Cat out if you can. If it's plugged it'll be obvious.

 

[alaskaforby4]

Any idea which fitting the screen is behind?

 

[alaskaforby4]

Under normal snowplowing operation the temp seems fine. I need to get out there and see if it will actually get hot roading, or if its just the Thermostat delaying opening or something. The Trans stays at about 1/3.
Not a lot going on right now though... soon, hopefully!

 

[Nige]

Behind #8. By my calculation that ought to be right behind that 90-deg elbow on the extreme LH side of your photo.

 

[alaskaforby4]

Your issue with the Remote FNR Switch might be nothing more than a software configuration. I came across this info while looking for calibration information.

The Remote FNR Switch is an OPTION and not all machine have it installed.
A "Type 1" switch is Part # 246-2642 and mounts on the top surface of the console in the case of machines with separate control levers for bucket raise & tilt.
A "Type 2" switch is Part # 303-9566 and mounts in the top of the joystick handle on machines equipped with joystick controls.

Illustrations of Type 1 & Type 2 switches are shown below. You have a Type 2 switch on your machine, HOWEVER according to the Parts system it appears as though it was originally built with a Type 1 switch because the bucket controls show two separate levers for bucket raise & tilt, not a joystick.
Type 1 (246-2642) Type 2 (303-9566)
View attachment 213009View attachment 213010

So here's the deal. In the Machine Configuration screen there is a selectable parameter for the Remote FNR switch.
It can be set as "Not Installed", "Type 1", or "Type 2", depending how the machine is equipped.
Now if the system is correct and your machine was NOT originally built with a joystick the Remote FNR Switch would have been set at the factory to either "Not Installed" or "Type 1" - I have no idea which.
It needs ET to look at the Configuration screen and set that parameter to "Type 2". See illustration below.

View attachment 213011

Okay a year later I’m back tackling this issue! I had Cat ET out and switch to “type 2” unfortunately it had no effect. I did the trouble shooting to ground and found the PK-18 wire was not making continuity to ground as it should. So the next step is the switch. I ordered the 303-9566 switch, but it appeared to be the one that goes on the console next to levers. Not the joystick mounted one. I didn’t take out of the bag as it was $250 and was terrified of not being able to return. I took it back and we poured through the diagrams and only came up with the hole joystick assembly for $500! Maybe this bigger different looking one fits in there, I just need to commit and take it out of bag and try? Does anyone else out there that has a joystick that looks like this? Or one with the newer looking switch?
Thanks for help on this!

 

[Nige]

Did you ever pull the J-2 connector off the ECM and check for ground or open circuit on those three pins 40, 42, & 43 using the F-N-R switch on the joystick.?



The 303-9566 switch is the Type 2 "remote F-N-R switch" that fits in the panel, not in the joystick. Sorry if I steered you wrong earlier. I wrote that it fitted on the top of the joystick, it does not. It fits in the same place as the former 246-2642 Type 1 switch in the top of the panel next to the lift/tilt controls as per your 2nd illustration in the post above. I assume that you have a switch in that location.?

The F-N-R switch in the joystick is not available separately, you have to buy a 277-3282 Handle As @ $500 or so.

 

[alaskaforby4]

Did you ever pull the J-2 connector off the ECM and check for ground or open circuit on those three pins 40, 42, & 43 using the F-N-R switch on the joystick.?

View attachment 237896

The 303-9566 switch is the Type 2 "remote F-N-R switch" that fits in the panel, not in the joystick. Sorry if I steered you wrong earlier. I wrote that it fitted on the top of the joystick, it does not. It fits in the same place as the former 246-2642 Type 1 switch in the top of the panel next to the lift/tilt controls as per your 2nd illustration in the post above. I assume that you have a switch in that location.?

The F-N-R switch in the joystick is not available separately, you have to buy a 277-3282 Handle As @ $500 or so.

Yes the PK-18 (J2-42) was open in fwd AND neu.(should be closed) it was closed in only reverse. The others were fine. This lead me to ordering the switch. Unfortunately it doesn’t have a spot to install it on the panel area by joystick. So I guess its the $500 joystick if I want it to work. Not sure if the convenience of not moving your left hand to shifter on column is worth $500! But sounds like that would fix it. Thanks for the info tracking this down

 

[Nige]

Okay a year later I’m back tackling this issue! I had Cat ET out and switch to “type 2” unfortunately it had no effect. I did the trouble shooting to ground and found the PK-18 wire was not making continuity to ground as it should. So the next step is the switch. I ordered the 303-9566 switch, but it appeared to be the one that goes on the console next to levers.

Based on your comment about there being nowhere to install the 303-9566 Switch on the console on your machine then only other thing I can think to try is to set the "Remote F-N-R Switch" parameter in the ET Configuration screen to "Not Installed". That would be the last throw of the dice.