Have a 650j I put a new battery cables starter in still cranks too slow to fire the 4045h. Engine. Voltage is 12+ volts. At the battery and starter. But drops to 5-6 volts when cranked. Tried to isolate positive and negative, no difference. No change trying to jump . also changed ignition switch. Any help appreciated.
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Slow cranking 650j
- Thread starter matwyukm
- Start date
BigWrench55
Senior Member
It's possible that you are having a parasitic load on the engine from one of the travel pumps.
That's what I was thinking as well. I was calibrating the TCM when the dozer lurched (inside my garage) and I shut it down. I can turn the engine over with a breaker bar. So question is, how do I relieve the load? I've cracked a hydraulic line on the pump and fluid flows out, but not really under pressure. Thanks for any help.
How do I resolve this?
mg2361
Senior Member
Remove your floor board. Then disconnect both PCP connectors on the hydrostatic pumps. See if it cranks faster and starts. If it does not, then we will move on the next step.
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mg2361
Senior Member
You should also block the machine up off the ground to keep things safe at this point.
I've done that, no difference. I did replace the front pcp, this the recalibration. I had to take the control valve off to get it out. So could it be the neutral link didnt line up?
mg2361
Senior Member
Yes, that could be the issue.
Yes it was. Removed the control valve and it cranks fine. Now, any tricks on lining up that neutral send link?
mg2361
Senior Member
I usually set it in with one hand while looking in a mirror with the other. You can barely see the link, but see it enough to line it up.
I am 99 % sure I got it in. Used the mirror. Could feel it drop in, and then when I slid the the valve body back and forth I could feel the spring tension from the arm. Put it all back together, and back to a slow grind. ????
so I'm still where I started. What would step 2 be?
mg2361
Senior Member
If it cranked fine with the PDCV assembly off and cranks hard with it on, you either have an issue with the PDCV sticking or you did not get the pin in. The next step would eliminate pressure control issues. It would indicate a mechanical issue if it cranks hard with hoses attached.
Kyfarm
Well-Known Member
This may be way to simplistic but on my farm equipment I've learned the hard way that a battery can show proper voltage but not have enough amps to turn a starter properly.
Have you tried swapping batteries so you can be completely sure it's not a weak battery?
Have you tried swapping batteries so you can be completely sure it's not a weak battery?
I'm leaning towards a pressure issue. When I shut it off during the calibration. It was starting to make a left turn (right track moving). Could it be stuck in drive and when I removed the valve it deverted the pressure? If this is the case, how do I get it out of drive? Thanks for all your help,
I switched out the batteries and even tried jumping it. But I keep looking at this area. Thanks
mg2361
Senior Member
I PM'd you.
Ok thanks
Seems it needed
Seems it may have needed some time or some turns to reset. Cranking much better this morning. Still not starting. Have new injector pump, injectors, lift pump. Have 200 psi compression in all cylinders during cranking just holding the guage in by hand. The ratio on this engine is 17.2:1 figure that's 250 psi. I got fuel to the injectors, a little white smoke from the exhaust. Won't fire on ether. Still stumped.
mg2361
Senior Member
Has cranking speed been checked with a tach?
If parasitic load is too high, ether will not help.
Sounds low to me. But we need to make sure cranking speed is good. Compression Spec for engine with the mechanical injection pump is 345-405. Engine with electronic injection pump, 410-430.
If parasitic load is too high, ether will not help.
Sounds low to me. But we need to make sure cranking speed is good. Compression Spec for engine with the mechanical injection pump is 345-405. Engine with electronic injection pump, 410-430.
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