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Sizing up a new tilt cylinder? Can it be done with without dealer parts?
- Thread starter Parts
- Start date
ianjoub
Senior Member
I did that with my backhoe attachment for my skid steer. I have yet to test the results. I used
https://www.magisterhyd.com/en/
https://www.magisterhyd.com/en/
Terryz
Well-Known Member
You would need to match the extended length of the other cylinder so that they bottom out at the same distance when you dump the bucket. also the retracted distance should be the same. you will be better off in the long run to replace the damaged parts or a new cyl. if the rod & barrel are bad.
I'd want the same size rod, close on the diameter of the cylinder itself, even closer on the extended and retracted lengths. Rated for a pressure comfortably higher than it will see.
What's wrong with the old one? I'd be more inclined to fix or replace with the OEM, especially if it's one of a pair.
What's wrong with the old one? I'd be more inclined to fix or replace with the OEM, especially if it's one of a pair.
One of my tilt cylinders was leaking bad. Couldn't get the gland nut off so I figured I would just replace them. Well today I cut the gland nut off and now I guess I'll be keeping my stock cylinder after I repack it. Any sources for the gland nuts or is that dealer only? Its a 2.75" cylinder.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
You probably would have been better off taking the cylinder to a hyd. shop to get the gland nut off. Gland nut likely has to come from dealer. If dealer can't get it may have to have one custom made. I don't know if you saved any money by trying to do it yourself. OEM cylinders are much higher quality than off the shelf utility or farm cylinders. Way better seals for one thing.
Jeepwalker
Senior Member
A lot of times the mfgr, (or a dealer repair) drills a hole and "Pins" the gland nut in place with a screw, pop rivet or some other pin ...at the seam between the gland nut and the cylinder body so the glad nut doesn't loosen itself. It's very effective. Over years of use, the head of the screw, nail or rivet, whatever they used to 'pin' the gland, it gets sheared off from rocks, etc and is very difficult to see. A lot of guys don't see the 'pin' and therefore cannot get the gland nut off and cause a great amt of damage trying. An aluminum pop rivet will probably shear with a big wrench, but a metal screw or nail won't. A cleaning and careful inspection can usually ID the 'pin' and drill it out with a small bit. Then the gland usually comes off fairly easily. Something to keep in mind for the next time. All mine were "Pinned" from the factory. When I re-did my seals, I purposely re-drilled and installed a new screw (the 'Pin') on the backside of the cylinder away from damaging objects.
I didn't replace the Piston on my cylinders. In the future I would definitely do that. The new seals stopped the leak out of the cylinders, but there is still a slight amt of 'leakdown' of the cylinders.
I didn't replace the Piston on my cylinders. In the future I would definitely do that. The new seals stopped the leak out of the cylinders, but there is still a slight amt of 'leakdown' of the cylinders.
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Welder Dave
Senior Member
A lot of times the gland nuts are just really, really tight and you need the proper fixturing and tools to loosen them. I don't think I'd resort to cutting them off without at least having a competent shop look at them first.
Jeepwalker
Senior Member
A lot of times the gland nuts are just really, really tight and you need the proper fixturing and tools to loosen them. I don't think I'd resort to cutting them off without at least having a competent shop look at them first.
And use the right tool (wrench) .....
mikebramel
Senior Member
Gehl parts are really cheap. No point in trying someone else