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Setting up air and electric for trailer.

nedly05

nedly05

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
1,801
Location
Adk. Mtns, NY
At some point this summer I am going to set up my international to pull the trailer. It has no air or electric currently at the end of the frame. How do you go about running the air lines? I. Also want to set it up with electric brakes. The truck is a 94 so no abs or computer bs to deal with.
Thanks!
 
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Rooster75

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
104
Location
Arkansas
I have a 95 International tri axle dump truck I pull a pintle hitch trailer with. My trailer has electric brakes,truck has air,you can buy a controller to convert air to electric pricey though. I went into fuse box, found hot fuse,went to my electric brake controller,found good ground,then run wires domn frame back to my hitch. I pull a Case 580 hoe and TD 8 Dozer all the time with this setup. Hope this helps ya.
 
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Willis Bushogin

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
855
Location
NC
Occupation
owner
nedly05 said:
At some point this summer I am going to set up my international to pull the trailer. It has no air or electric currently at the end of the frame. How do you go about running the air lines? I. Also want to set it up with electric brakes. The truck is a 94 so no abs or computer bs to deal with.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

as far as running air to the rear, seems like States vary on their application/requirements. In NC, you must have a brake valve/button on the dash. If your state isnt like mine. you can tee, into the main brake air lines and run to the rear. You either need to install shutoff valves at the hitch, or use hydraulic push and lock couplings. Its kinda pricey to install a dash brake value.
Electrical is kinda straight forward, install a electrical receptacle, to match your trailers plug. It is confusing if you dont have a test light and wiring order.
Electric brakes, all controllers has wiring diagrams supplied, power, ground, feed from brake light switch and wiring to rear receptacle pretty simple also if you have a test light and a little electrical knowledge. Make sure you buy a controller that is strong enough, to handle your trailer, A good one cost about $100-$150
Good Luck
 
nedly05

nedly05

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
1,801
Location
Adk. Mtns, NY
Thanks guys, I have done a few plugs that I cut and spliced into the harness for lights only, so the addition of the brakes seems like it wouldnt be too much harder. I'd imagine NY requires the valve in the dash. I remember we did air lines on an old tandem we had but it was partially plumbed when we got it. It seems like it had the dash valve and the tractor protector valve already. Oh and it also had the trolley valve to manually work the brakes so I guess all we did was find the lines and run them out to glad hands. I'm going to peck away at this little by little, first I have to get the plate welded on and a hook installed.

Thanks for the help!
 
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