Sandblasting Advice Needed

[CraneInnovation]

With the weather warming up, I'm looking to embark on a full repaint of my Gradall. For surface prep, I'd like to sandblast instead of sand. Problem is, I don't have any experience with gearing up for this.

What would you recommend for a unit? I'm looking at a typical 50/100lb rolling unit. Not doing bridge beams, but my limited experience with my friend's hopper gun suggests one of those won't cut it.

My biggest concern is containment/media control. Do I need to build some kind of big plastic shed over the machine, or can I just go to town on a paved area and sweep/shop-vac up the residue? Will a man in a white pickup truck with gubmint plates be extremely cross with me? What do you guys usually do?

I'd be looking to do the job in phases, but I don't want it to take 5 months. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Casepoclain]

I've tried this before, we have an older 1970s sand blaster (300lbs) we need the big compressor on wheels to use (175 CFM). It does work, but makes a huge mess. If the sand isn't perfectly dry, which usually isn't the issue, and the air the compressor isn't perfectly dry (think bad oil seals) (which usually is) you have a huge mess. It hurts like H#*$ if you don't have the proper sandblasting gear, leather and a very good face shield. I have to say I've given up and send parts to the professionals. To get an air dryer for the compressor is well into the thousands, it's cheaper to let someone else deal with it. I've found people on Craigslist that will come to the farm, they have a truck set up. It's also very dusty, leaded paint flying. I can't say I've ever heard of the EPA type people coming around for a machine, but I wouldn't do it where kids play or at the farm where food is grown. I have a 955L I wanted to have a really nice paint job on... ended up using self etching primer and Cat paint and it looked good. I wire wheeled all the rusty spots. My old Farmall tractors... they get sent to a car restoration guy for blasting. Lastly... the blaster you can get at Harbor Freight... they work if the sand is perfectly clean, but again you need the right clothing. And the blasting sand gets pricey after a while, which makes you want to sweep it up and reuse it, which plugs up the blaster which leads to lots of frustration. Personal experience!!

 

[DoyleX]

Just did a couple of trailers this winter. You will need a 2-300lb pot or you will be filling every 10 min. A 185cfm compressor, a proper safety helmet with air supply, and a spot you can make a mess. I was outside on a gravel lot. Just scrape up the leftovers and use em for backfill. I would blast the whole thing right away and get some paint on it pronto! Super clean bare metal will rust with high humidity. I used a 1/4 nozzle with 20/40 coal slag and a 200lb pot. I was filling every 15 min or so. Do not reuse your media or get it damp. Honestly for the amount of time involved and the somewhat specialized equipment you do not save much.

 

[pp13bnos]

I did my little bulldozer a couple years ago, with a smaller sized sand blasting unit. (100lb unit, i'm guessing.) I can't see myself doing another job like that again. Messy, tiring, and time consuming.

I recently just paid a local guy to sand blast my 40ft lowboy, prime it and paint it for $2500. If your time is as important as mine is, its money well spent to pay someone who has the tools to do it right.

 

[fixou812]

We had a very hot Very high pressure; pressure washer Maybe that would for you.
This this thing had so much pressure it could cut your finger off.
we also had great decreased we mixed in.

 

[390eric]

How Do you plan to do this in phases? If you just blast one section and paint it, then do the next phases, you will damage the done section. Im not a fan of sandblasting unless its all in pieces. Sand goes everywhere and will come out from all those spots when your painting.

 

[fixou812]

since the glue is stubborn on duct tape first cover the window rubber with masking tape then cover windows with duct tape and cardboard beforesandblasting before sandblasting

 

[brian falcone]

Ive . Painted a few machines over the year...sand blasted one...I wont do it again. Like was stated the sand gets evrywhere and works its way onto your finish when you paint. The other issue was it brought areas to bare metal that were impossible to get a decent coat of paint in afterwards. Like around piston mounting brackets and other angled areas. When I painted my t340 I rented a steam cleaner and washed it several times. This removed any and all loose paint and grease. The backhoe I just did was power washed steam cleaned and I used a d.a. to sand everything down. The one more wash and painted. I would only sandblast if the part was removed from the machine so It can be clean and painted on all sides. And even then I would pay someone else to do it. I use a small sandblaster here for odds and ends bit not an entire machine. Just my 2 cents

 

[warpspeed]

call all the local sandblasting places nearby and have the ones that are mobile give you quotes. I have one nearby that i'd bet would do your machine for around 5 or 600. It would be worth it.

 

[CraneInnovation]

Thanks so much for all the advice, guys!

Sounds like the consensus is very much to not do the whole machine ourselves. I think we might still do the painting, but I'll definitely just get a sandblasting quote or consider alternative options. I know other users have had good results with rust treatment alone. I'm trying to avoid sanding as it really sucks. We've done a few small areas, and I'd rather not do the whole machine that way.

Right now we are planning to disassemble the boom and cradle to allow re-sealing of all the cylinders. While it is apart, we are going to have it steam-cleaned followed by the repainting and possible sandblasting.

 

[david Jones]

I would agree that you are probably best to outsource the blasting. You can use a low cost blast pot but typically they will not deliver the same results when it comes to controlling the media being released which creates a lot of waste both with money and time. This guide on blasting helped me alot understanding the details before I decided not to do it myself

 

[Legdoc]

I have blasted and painted many trailers, implements and machines with excellent results. IMO if you desire a top notch job, blasting and immediate priming a large project by section is the way to go. I start by degreasing all heavy build up with a stiff brush and diesel followed by an industrial degreaser then hot pressure wash. The more you disassemble the better removing glass, wiring, plastic etc. I then grind and flap wheel any undesireable rough areas and degrease again. One thing many do not realize blasting spreads the grease and oil. To make good progress a 185 cfm compressor with a 300 lb. pot is required with a pressure helmet including filtered air, cape, leather gloves and hearing protection. Position the sand pot and compressor upwind where a helper loads the blast media. When finished blasting I close the media valve on the pot and blow off the item from all directions. As mentioned the more intricate the item the more difficult it is to remove the media. If you go to this much work buy industrial grade primer and paint. Clean, dry air is essential and a pressure pot with a good gun sure makes painting easier. I have found my projects a lot of work but it is very satisfying when the job comes together.

 

[Reon333]

I own a sandblasting company. So my advice is to consult with any sand blasting machine supplier in uae, so that you will be able to get clear idea of which sandblasting equipment you should use.
Thanks

 

[StanRUS]

Do not purchase one these blasters. Constant media feeding issues.
http://www.ibixtech.com/en-us/produ.../sandblasters/blasting-equipment-trilogy-9-28

 

[DMiller]

We tried glass bead shot, sand, Black Beauty(Ground Coal Slag) and other materials to get a better finish on Big machines, all were worthless. As noted gets into EVERY nook and cranny, only comes out as try to paint. Great for Giant Pump Housings and parts, Bridges and Structural Steel but for sheet metal and hard to clean hidey hole machines not so very good. Truck Shop had his Mack Cab soda blasted but was stripped bare, soda blasting takes special equipment and access to the media but distorts far less while removes far less structural material.

 

[Joe H]

I'm trying to avoid sanding as it really sucks.

If you think sanding sucks, wait til you've spent a day sand blasting.

Pay a pro or forget it.

Joe H