Replacing track chains on 1994 Hitachi ex200lc. Master link..

[soapstoneguy]

Hello everyone,
Was getting ready to do a 'pad swap', just replace the chains on my undercarriage since everything else looks good. I found the 'master link' but would like to know how to properly disassemble the link so I can lay the pad out? Any help would be great.
Also, I am looking at picking up some ITR chains as well. I heard Berco were good chains as well and that Trek were BAD chains to use. Any thoughts?

Thanks everyone

 

[Tony]

Soap,

If you are going to use new chains, why bother disassembling the master?

Torch-cut the old chains and let them fall away, then drag them out with another machine. Torch the nuts off to remove the pads. Better yet, if you can find a local ITR or Berco dealer, many of them will p/u your old chain/pads and do the swapover for you.

Tony

 

[soapstoneguy]

Hey Tony,
Torchin the old ones was actually my first thought but I figured it might be good to know how to pop that master link out just in case. I was going to take the nuts and bolts out and save them (just in case I ever need them). I'm not in any big hurry at the moment so it is ok if it takes me a little longer to get the nuts and bolts off...although im sure my mind would change quickly since there are 392 of those things lol.

have you dealt with ITR chains before? I know Berco are really good, according to one of my friends and the local Hitachi Dealer...but they are like $2k more. I don't want to put some cheap **** on there and have them break super fast but the Hitachi Dealer also recommended ITR chains and said they were good as well. I read in another forum on here that ITR has a 3 year, 4,000hr warranty or something..?

Thanks for the help Tony!

 

[cjplanthire]

hey there the master pin is flat on 2 sides with the sides semi circle, once you find it it should easily push back with a sledge and drift.

the chain you want is a berco d5 and a bucket of track bolts, the chain dealer will also have these, make sure and put new sprockets on aswell with the new chains, old sprockets may look good but will wear the sh1t out of new chains

 

[QuickTrax]

Soapstoneguy, All of the major aftermarket brands today whether its ITR, Berco, V-Track, Trek offer a 3 year 4000 hr prorated warranty. I would check around and find the best price. Make sure your u/c dealer will stand behind whichever brand you buy just in case you have a problem.
Good Luck, Quicktrax

 

[soapstoneguy]

thank you for all the information guys. as far as the bolts go does it matter if the new bolts are the same size as the old bolts? I am not using the old bolts at all I'm getting all new bolts but still using the old pads. all of the dealers that I have been talking to have always asked me if they are 18 millimeter or 20 millimeter bolts...does it mater the size of the new ones? also according to the dealer that I am looking at buying the tracks from they are it r tracks and a 3yr 4000hr warranty which is nice.

thanks again for all the help everyone i appreciate it.

 

[QuickTrax]

The bolt size does matter. Your new chain should have the same size bolt holes as your track pads. If they are not the same you will have a major problem.

 

[soapstoneguy]

broken pads? Thanks for the heads up. I think the bolts I have in now are 21mm.. The 20 wouldn't fit...18 was way too small.
I'll talk to the dealor. The chains are coming from HeavyQuip.. Said the ITR chains called for 18mm bolts on that chain...

 

[Bejennar]

Where do you guys get your bolts from? Aftermarket or OEM? Would you fix it yourself if it's bolt realted or go somewhere to get it fixed? Thanks - I'm new to the industry so any insight you can give will help!

 

[cutting edge]

My two cents.....

You're best off getting the supplier that you're buying from , to do the pad swap. It sounds like you already have a hardware issue and I suspect that you don't have the proper rig to torque the pad bolts properly. Have you seen the torque spec?

The last thing you want to do is try to claim warranty on a set of tracks YOU put together.

edit....damn old threads......

 

[Cat_man320]

The bolt , pad and rail must be a matching set , if not you will never keep the pads tight. In other words , the pad and rail must have same size hole with the bolt that bearly slides through . first thing I would do is to take all the tension off the rail by removing the track adjuster grease nipple or just back the grease nipple out enough for the grease to escape . Push your idler back with you bucket or another machine . Find a nice level place where you can move your machine at least 30 ft forward and reverse , lay out your new rails in line with travel direction of machine at the travel motor side . Cut old rail at sprocket , travel forward far enough so rail separates from sprocket, drive machine onto new rail . pull the new rail back over idler and pull back and mate with sprocket . from there it should be no problem to join the track . You may need a few wooden blocks to keep bottom side of rail against the sprocket while you installing the master link .

 

[soapstoneguy]

Where do you guys get your bolts from? Aftermarket or OEM? Would you fix it yourself if it's bolt realted or go somewhere to get it fixed? Thanks - I'm new to the industry so any insight you can give will help!

I got my rails and bolts from here http://www.heavyquip.com/index.htm
just tell them what machine you have and how many links and they should set you up.

what is the problem with your machine? you will need a heavy duty gun to be able to get the bolts off and you have to torque the new ones to I believe 600ft/lb. so if you don't have either one you may need to bring it in or check around to see if someone has a HUGE (literally huge) torque wrench to torque the bolts down. go to an iron place or iron construction company because they will probably have the proper type of torque wrench and see if you can rent theirs, its worth a shot to save you some $$ from having to load up your machine and bring it to a dealer for work. mobile mechanics could also work but they HAVE TO BE heavy equipment mechanics and you'll probably pay $50+ an hour.

if i know what kind of problem you have with your machine I could give more info.

 

[Bejennar]

Thanks for the help so far guys. I've decided to take it to a servicer... does anyone know if they generally offer a warranty with the parts? Also thinking of getting into a service agreement - what's everyones opinion on service agreements? And anyone know how long you can get them from and with what servicers?

Cheers for everything.