OzDozer
Senior Member
Woo-Hoo! One of my old steeds! An ex-Army S-7 Euclid elevator scraper!! I didn't know there were any still running! These are 1960's machines!
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Repairing older style dozer final drives D6D
- Thread starter .RC.
- Start date
.RC.
Senior Member
They were telling me they had a pair of them, except the other one is a twin power. Another GM to drive the elevator. 
Queenslander
Senior Member
And, if Iam not mistaken, a 14C hiding in the background.
We’ve had about 10 inches in the last six weeks but hardly run a drop of water.
Certainly not enough to fill a dam.
We’ve had about 10 inches in the last six weeks but hardly run a drop of water.
Certainly not enough to fill a dam.
.RC.
Senior Member
Yes, a rare one. A direct drive 14C.
OzDozer
Senior Member
Yes, the S-7 had a 4-71 for main power (135HP from memory), 4 speed Allison, and a 2-71 to drive the elevator. Spent enough time on them, to lose a fair amount of my hearing!
.RC.
Senior Member
I will resurrect this thread as the issue stems from it. I have not done anything about it as it has run sort of fine. There is no binding or anything.
After I put everything back together and installed the track frame, it was never aligned properly with the bottom rollers. Before I pulled it apart it was. The is probably 3/8"- 1/2" out of alignment (in towards the tractor too far)and now some time has passed and the chain will rub on the sprocket. Not bad, but it rubs. The diagonal brace bearing is also all jammed over one side and there is room there to move it outwards to correct the alignment.
Now I know there are shims that you put under the dead axle nut for alignment, however this is only for minor movement of the track frame. Not for 1/2" of moving it.
I have been racking my brain as to why it never went back in the same position I pulled it apart. I thought as I replaced the hub, maybe the aftermarket one was made all wrong and the sprocket was incorrectly positioned, but it projects the same distance from the tractor frame as the other side. So no issue there.
The only other thing it could be is the outer support, the bit that sits on the taper and you tighten with the nut on the dead axle. I replaced it with an aftermarket one, and it is it that aligns the track frame with the rollers.
So for the older people that remember these old designs, have they ever had an issue with track frame alignment from out of spec parts?
I did find this thread with a similar problem, but as usual, no known outcome.
www.heavyequipmentforums.com
After I put everything back together and installed the track frame, it was never aligned properly with the bottom rollers. Before I pulled it apart it was. The is probably 3/8"- 1/2" out of alignment (in towards the tractor too far)and now some time has passed and the chain will rub on the sprocket. Not bad, but it rubs. The diagonal brace bearing is also all jammed over one side and there is room there to move it outwards to correct the alignment.
Now I know there are shims that you put under the dead axle nut for alignment, however this is only for minor movement of the track frame. Not for 1/2" of moving it.
I have been racking my brain as to why it never went back in the same position I pulled it apart. I thought as I replaced the hub, maybe the aftermarket one was made all wrong and the sprocket was incorrectly positioned, but it projects the same distance from the tractor frame as the other side. So no issue there.
The only other thing it could be is the outer support, the bit that sits on the taper and you tighten with the nut on the dead axle. I replaced it with an aftermarket one, and it is it that aligns the track frame with the rollers.
So for the older people that remember these old designs, have they ever had an issue with track frame alignment from out of spec parts?
I did find this thread with a similar problem, but as usual, no known outcome.
D6D Track Frame Alignment
I bought a D6D dozer six months ago. I thought I had inspected it fairly well before I bought it, but it seems like the longer I own it, the more things I find that I overlooked. The other day I noticed the track frame alignment is off in the rear. The sprockets on both sides are sitting to...
www.heavyequipmentforums.com
Glum
Active Member
Having 3 lots of tapers, (axle to casing, sprocket to hub, axle to holder) that have been pushed, pulled and replaced who knows how many times in 40 years has this effect I guess. I would remove the nut and put as many shims as you have behind the retainer plate to force the track frame out and see how much it improves.
OzDozer
Senior Member
RC, you're already onto it - it's the variation in taper on the aftermarket outer hub you purchased.
It doesn't take much variation in taper to position the hub either in or out quite a distance from the original position of an original hub.
There's not much you can do about it, if the outer hub is positioned too far in. The only cure is machining it out and sleeving it with a tapered insert, to get it positioned out further.
It doesn't take much variation in taper to position the hub either in or out quite a distance from the original position of an original hub.
There's not much you can do about it, if the outer hub is positioned too far in. The only cure is machining it out and sleeving it with a tapered insert, to get it positioned out further.
.RC.
Senior Member
Thanks, there is some amount of thread showing on the nut when I pulled the outer plate off.
Maybe Glums idea of making up a thick shim will work. It is the easiest and cheapest.
Anpther thing just dawned on me is I thought the outer cover plate was just that, merely a plate to cover and seal everything up. But I think it is also supposed to pull the track frame out and press against the inner circular bit that has the red grease on it in the picture below.
Maybe Glums idea of making up a thick shim will work. It is the easiest and cheapest.
Anpther thing just dawned on me is I thought the outer cover plate was just that, merely a plate to cover and seal everything up. But I think it is also supposed to pull the track frame out and press against the inner circular bit that has the red grease on it in the picture below.
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Glum
Active Member
Yes, RC, that's exactly how it works. Shims behind the plate, to move it outward on the axle, then when you tighten the outer cover up against the retainer plate it pulls the whole frame outward.
.RC.
Senior Member
Of course if the outer hub is pushed on more, it also means the duo cone seal is squashed up more. Tolerances stacked upon tolerances upon tolerances.
You can see now why International were way ahead of Caterpillar on final drive design back in the 1960's and 1970's with their separated from the trackframe planetary design.
You can see now why International were way ahead of Caterpillar on final drive design back in the 1960's and 1970's with their separated from the trackframe planetary design.