Repairing creeping Bobcat

[Cookcountycummins]

Willie 59, how do i get that piece of the pump that is now sticking above the case back down? I took the seal plate off to replace the seal, i took the flat seal off and that part popped up and no will not go back down

 

[Cookcountycummins]

Yellow arrow pointing to the part in question

 

[Cookcountycummins]

I got it

 

[Cookcountycummins]

For anybody else that runs into this problem, i had to pry the square shaft towards the inside of the machine and lightly tap on that ring with a brass hammer to get it to seat back down then while tightening the seal plate down also gave it a slight pry to get the plate to mate with the too of the case, i tightened to 25ftlbs i dont know if thats correct but thats what they were torqued to before i removed them

 

[Lee_in_Georgia]

Thanks so much, Willie59! This is a very well-done post and I all appreciate all the work you put into it.

We have a 2019 T450 that has this same problem. I thought it had been fixed under warranty but turns out the operator never took it in... so I may be doing this soon. Hopefully, the T450 will be approximately the same. Thanks again!

 

[Juniorcash]

I've just redone my 751 but I also had to change both bell cranks and the bushings for them. I found the whole job fairly straight forward and I was surprised by the price of the pintle arms and bell cranks, 46 AUD each for the arms and 130 AUD each for the bell cranks. Changing the bell cranks wasn't too difficult but took a bit if fiddling to get one end out to slide them off the shaft. Once both were done it was like driving a new Bobcat. One thing I will tell you is that the original bell cranks are obsolete and the new ones take a 26.5mm torsion bushing, not the 22.5. There's a note in the parts book so check it before you take the parts home.

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Thanks I spent hours looking for info on this

 

[muddog1975]

Great thread! Thanks for sharing!

 

[BenR]

Now the main difference between the aluminum arms and two piece steel pintle arm, there's no centering adjusting screw like on the steel arms. The drive centering adjustments are done solely on the centering plate. Notice the holes on the centering plate that mount the centering bars. The holes on the left (for right side drive) are both slotted. The holes on the right (left drive) has one hole slotted and one plain round hole. That's where adjusting begins, the round hole is the pivot point and the slotted hole is the adjusting point for left side drive. Mount the centering bar to the plate with round hole bolt, then mount opposite end bolt in the mid point of slotted hole, lighty lock down bolts. Install opposite centering bar with two slotted holes, push bar away from other centering bar and lightly lock bolts.

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Fit centering plate onto guide pins, re-install centering spring. Now we can start adjusting. Again, you must have machine on stands or sturdy blocks, wheels off ground. Start machine and release parking brake lock. Adjust left side drive first. If there's no creep of left drive wheels, lock down the bolts for that centering bar. If there is creep of left drive, put a little light torque on round hole pivot bolt.

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Have a little tension on the slotted hole bolt. Move left side drive lever to reverse drive to seperate spool from the centering bar at that bolt, tap the side of the head of the slotted hole bolt in the direction needed to achieve neutral. Once neutral is achieved, start torquing the bolts, keep moving drive lever in fwd and rev while torquing and checking that neutral is good. Once you get neutral, lock bolts tight.

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Now that you have the left side drive set and not creeping, it's time to adjust the right side drive. Since they are all the way left in there slots, there's going to be considerable movement of the machine drive lever. With the right machine drive lever holding the right wheels in neutral position, or close as you can, loosen the bolts in the centering bar and move it to the right in the slotted holes until centering bar is against the spools of pintle lever, lightly torque bolts. Adjust the two bolts to achieve drive neutral for right side drive, making sure the centering bar is contacting the spools, you can't have any slack between bar and spool contact or it will creep, but you have to make sure the adjustments on that side don't cause slack for the opposite side drive. Once you get right side drive neutral, lock bolts down tight. Move both drive levers in fwd and rev and make sure there is no drive creep.

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Thanks for a great tutorial! I've replaced the centering blocks and spools on my 773 and put everything back together. Machine is up on blocks and when I try to start it to make final neutral adjustments it makes a grinding noise and won't start. The centering bars contact the spools and the pintle arms are tight. The service manual says back the torsion bushings off so they can spin freely, maybe that's my problem? The odd time I can get it to run for about 3-5seconds before it starts the grinding noise and stalls. Any tips you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Just a farmer trying to save some $$$.

 

[willie59]

That's because neutral is now out of adjustment from doing the repairs. Upon start up it's trying to drive with the parking brake engaged, which locks the parking brake because it's now under tension, you have to get that parking brake released so you can make the neutral adjustments by manipulating the sticks fore or aft slightly while cranking and releasing the brake. Only other option is to remove the parking brake locking plate until you make adjustment. Myself, I've always managed to get that brake released.

 

[BenR]

That's because neutral is now out of adjustment from doing the repairs. Upon start up it's trying to drive with the parking brake engaged, which locks the parking brake because it's now under tension, you have to get that parking brake released so you can make the neutral adjustments by manipulating the sticks fore or aft slightly while cranking and releasing the brake. Only other option is to remove the parking brake locking plate until you make adjustment. Myself, I've always managed to get that brake released.

Thank you for the response. I managed to get it released and neutral adjusted properly this afternoon. Next I need to figure out why none of the lights work.

 

[LowBoy]

I'm kinda hoping this info will help some machine owner do his own repairs instead of unloading the wallet to pay the big shop to do them.

Fantastic info willie...much appreciated. Mine does this ever-so-slightly...not enough to bother me just yet. I have a neighbor that has a New Holland skidsteer that was creeping pretty profusely, and he fixed it with a piece of mechanics wire looped around the drive handle, attached to the side window panel to hold the stick in neutral, lololololol...

 

[willie59]

I have a neighbor that has a New Holland skidsteer that was creeping pretty profusely, and he fixed it with a piece of mechanics wire looped around the drive handle, attached to the side window panel to hold the stick in neutral, lololololol...

LoL, as they say, necessity is the mother of invention. By far, my favorite that I've ever ran across was an old Bobcat 753 C series. Gas spring on the lap bar was dead. Easy enough, simply replace the gas spring, right? Nope, this customer rigged up an elaborate bungy system to support the lap bar. At first glance I shook my head a laughed, but once I used it in working on the machine, the damn setup worked absolutely perfect, just as good as the gas spring. I was impressed by the creative ingenuity.

 

[LowBoy]

LoL, as they say, necessity is the mother of invention. By far, my favorite that I've ever ran across was an old Bobcat 753 C series. Gas spring on the lap bar was dead. Easy enough, simply replace the gas spring, right? Nope, this customer rigged up an elaborate bungy system to support the lap bar. At first glance I shook my head a laughed, but once I used it in working on the machine, the damn setup worked absolutely perfect, just as good as the gas spring. I was impressed by the creative ingenuity.

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Hahaha, that's exactly right; necessity being the mother of invention.
I'll be honest...my lap bar safety didn't work when I bought it, and the guy I got it from told me it didn't right up front, as the parking brake doesn't work either. (This 843 has the parking brake pedal on the floor between the loader foot controls.)
The lap bar issue doesn't really bother me, because my machine was evidently built for an Ethiopian guy. I'm fairly "thick", and that bar made me inhale as hard as I could, get the bar down and then exhale and I was stuck there with no wiggle room...so I decided to bungee the bar up to the ceiling and not use it at all, lol. I do use the seat belt though, when I get into situations where I need the stability... which is very seldom.
I only use my rig around my yard mostly anyways, for lifting pallets and occasionally to grade the driveway, it's not out on many jobs and I'm the only one that runs it, so it's a little different story than having 15 guys jumping in and out of it all day.

 

[alexmedrano123]

Will this work for a 05 t190 what are the bushing I would need mines creep to the left

 

[hazel]

Excellent tutorial. Thanks ATCO!

The tutorial was pretty good but couldn't really see the pictures that well when I tried to enlarge them