Pulling motor in a S300

[05sprcrw]

I am going to be pulling the pump/motor pack from my 07 Bobcat S300 here in about a month once it starts getting warmer out. I am just trying to get parts here and be as prepared as I can be for it so I can get it done and back together with minimal down time.

I don't have too many questions on the removal itself, I have bought the service manual and it seems pretty straight forward. But if you guys have any tips or tricks I am all ears.

The biggest question I have is what are some things you guys would check / swap as preventive maintenance while I have it out. I figured if there are any pain in the butt items could save me some serious headaches later on I would rather just do it while I am there and be done.

I figured I would put a new drive pump belt on while it was out. I also figured I would take the time to clean the chassis out good while I had the motor out as well. Anything else that I am missing?

 

[BC873G]

Hi, I am curious to know why you are pulling the pump/motor pack to begin with?

 

[05sprcrw]

It has high hours and is starting to develop blow by, burning a bit of oil, and the exhaust is a bit hazy from incomplete combustion and before it gets worse I am just going to pull it and get it bored out and put the oversized pistons in and over haul it now so that its good to go. I knew when I bought it that it was going to need to happen at some point just going to do it and get it done and over with.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hi I just pulled the engine from my S185 and it has the Kubota V2003-T and put it back in. I did not put the pump with it. I don't know how this compares to your machine. Does your have the Kubota engine?

 

[05sprcrw]

Hi I just pulled the engine from my S185 and it has the Kubota V2003-T and put it back in. I did not put the pump with it. I don't know how this compares to your machine. Does your have the Kubota engine?

Yes it has a v3300-T Kubota in it, I was just going by what the manual said to pull it all as a unit.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

So that is the way you are supposed to do it . I didn't have a manual so I pulled the engine without pulling the pump because I didn't want to unhook and re-hook all of the hydraulic hoses. But it may be easier if you pull it together I don't know. It was pretty to remove and replace the engine by its self except for the 4 motor mount bolts which holds the engine to the (I guess it would be called the cradle or main bracket). They were the devil to get out and worse to get back in. If I ever pull it like that again I would drill those 4 holes out just a couple of sizes before I replaced the engine. The bracket is easy to get to with the engine removed but the clearance is so close around the bolts it a terrible job to get them restarted because they are between the engine and the pump so there is no way to see them at all.
So if I can try to describe where these bolts are, it is the right side of the machine, crankshaft pulley end of engine. If you reach around the crankshaft pulley and just above the fuel tank you will find the 4 bolts.
I hope this helps.
B-Crazy

 

[crewchief888]

i'd replace the belts while you have it out. maybe replace the fuel pickup and return hoses to the tank. check the fuel sender connector, ive seen the molded connector on the sender occasionally leak, typically gives an erratic fuel level.
it's faster to pull the engine and pumps as an assembly than to dick around with just trying to separate the engine from the mounts.

 

[05sprcrw]

Thanks guys I will definitely check those hoses out and probably replace the connector. I some how managed to pull the fuel sender when I first got it and put a new one in just through the side access panels wasn't fun but I did manage to get it done. I went in from the left side pulled that "air duct" from the fan gave me enough room to get down in there with a crows foot and pull it, at the time I thought about the connector but didn't think I would be able to get on it with crimps that deep in the machine and get them heat shrank.

 

[crewchief888]

FWIW bobcat has a special socket available for the fuel senders. same socket also fits early type aux coupler blocks.

 

[05sprcrw]

Really, do you have a part number for it by chance? I will probably order one to add to the tool box. I found that a 1 11/16 deep well socket / crows foot would do it, if I remember correctly.

 

[crewchief888]

Really, do you have a part number for it by chance? I will probably order one to add to the tool box. I found that a 1 11/16 deep well socket / crows foot would do it, if I remember correctly.

I can't remember the part number.
If you already have something that works, you probably will never use the bobcat special tool. It's a stamped sheet metal deep socket. Similar to a truck wheel bearing nut socket.
Mine get mangled, and replaced about once a year

 

[05sprcrw]

Got ya thanks for the heads up. The other one I found is an extra deep well 7/8 (I believe) socket ground down / thinned down along the front edge will fit around the stem on the power bobtach block and can be reached while in the machine. I like the socket because it doesn't risk side loading the stem as much as a wrench in those tight spots.

 

[05sprcrw]

One last quick question, I started to get everything ready to pull in the next couple days. I have it all unhooked except for the (4) main charge lines running to the drive motors. My 1 1/2 wrench was too big to fit in there and I have to get a different wrench. Is there any style or a special one that will fit in there better to get on those lines that are that close together?

Thanks

 

[Wes J]

I'm pretty sure that motor has dry sleeves. I don't know that you can bore it and use oversize pistons. Normally, you press out the old liners and press in new ones and then they have to be bored and honed to the original bore diameter. You'll need a machine shop to do that.

All small diesels, but especially Kubotas, are prone to cracking and warping the heads. You need to check the head and block for flatness and possibly have the head leak tested. I always at least grind the valves and seats, but very often the stems and guides are worn.

 

[crewchief888]

One last quick question, I started to get everything ready to pull in the next couple days. I have it all unhooked except for the (4) main charge lines running to the drive motors. My 1 1/2 wrench was too big to fit in there and I have to get a different wrench. Is there any style or a special one that will fit in there better to get on those lines that are that close together?

Thanks

You may have to get them with an angle head wrench. Remove both top hoses at the pump, move them to the side and remove the bottom ones

Ain't bobcats fun?


.

 

[05sprcrw]

Thanks for the tip, I figured it was going to take a service wrench so I broke down and ordered a full set of them it will come in handy in the future instead of trying to fit the full size wrenches in there for sure. Fun is definitely one word to describe it, but so far I don't feel its going too terrible. I only have 3 hours into the removal so far and minus those (4) lines and the supply from the hydraulic tank, and the engine mount bolts. Taking the rear tires off definitely made it a whole lot easier. Earlier this year I was dumb and changed the bobtach valve out and left the tire in place talk about a pain in the rear!

Thanks for the advice crewchief888!

 

[05sprcrw]

I'm pretty sure that motor has dry sleeves. I don't know that you can bore it and use oversize pistons. Normally, you press out the old liners and press in new ones and then they have to be bored and honed to the original bore diameter. You'll need a machine shop to do that.

All small diesels, but especially Kubotas, are prone to cracking and warping the heads. You need to check the head and block for flatness and possibly have the head leak tested. I always at least grind the valves and seats, but very often the stems and guides are worn.

Thanks I will be sure to check those over as well. The block itself doesn't have sleeves, it can be over bored and use a factory provided oversize piston after that one time over bore then you have to replace the block itself.

 

[Wes J]

I just looked it up and you are correct, no liners. I guess it's a throw away engine.

 

[05sprcrw]

Yea wish it was sleeved but after I get it rebuilt it will last me more then long enough to a newer machine it will live a pretty easy life on my farm getting only a couple hundred hours a year put on it will last quite some time.

 

[crewchief888]

Thanks for the tip, I figured it was going to take a service wrench so I broke down and ordered a full set of them it will come in handy in the future instead of trying to fit the full size wrenches in there for sure. Fun is definitely one word to describe it, but so far I don't feel its going too terrible. I only have 3 hours into the removal so far and minus those (4) lines and the supply from the hydraulic tank, and the engine mount bolts. Taking the rear tires off definitely made it a whole lot easier. Earlier this year I was dumb and changed the bobtach valve out and left the tire in place talk about a pain in the rear!

Thanks for the advice crewchief888!

usually a couple raps with a hammer and they'll come right off even with a short service wrench, unless Magilla Gorilla tightened them up the last time.
i hate that series of machine's powerbobtach valve, with A/C. i'd rather be beat with a baseball bat than pull one off.