Precombustion chamber temperature???

[Truck Shop]

Some new age info on deck surface.
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Head and Block Surfacing Equipment Update - Engine Builder Magazine

How smooth is smooth enough? You used to be able to tell by dragging your fingernail across the surface of a cylinder head or engine block. And besides, it didn’t really matter because the composite head gasket would fill any gaps that your equipment or technique left behind. Related Articles -...

www.enginebuildermag.com

 

[Cliffy]

Running the linkage all the way up is fine if the quadrant leavers are adjusted correctly.
With engine running there should be some play to the top of the travel of the arms. You will hear the engine load up if they come up too far.

 

[Pony]

Re wire brushing the block,.
I guess it comes back to me not knowing any better.
The shop I'm buying parts from specialises in fixing these old tractors. I've bought enough parts now, they know me a bit and have been giving me a bit of advice.
Wire brushing the deck come from them, I figured they would know.
I guess not.

 

[thepumpguysc]

There r different gauges of wire brushs..
I have friends that work with nothing but steel.. and if u get to close to their wheels, it’ll take your leg or finger off..
Me on the other hand, I work with aluminum and have wheels made specifically for that.. I can brush up against it and it only takes a layer or two of skin off.. lol

 

[chidog]

Re wire brushing the block,.
I guess it comes back to me not knowing any better.
The shop I'm buying parts from specialises in fixing these old tractors. I've bought enough parts now, they know me a bit and have been giving me a bit of advice.
Wire brushing the deck come from them, I figured they would know.
I guess not.

Its better than a scotch brite disk, as long as its not a stiff agressive wire like most of the cheap harbor freight ones are. In my younger days I wire brushed cast iron all the time, not aluminum, but way prefer to just scrape and the emery thing mentioned above.

Did the shop check the pattern of your injectors?

 

[Pony]

Sorry been flat out.
Yes wire brush was what we call over here, crimped wire. The aggressive ones are twisted wire.

Also yes injectors we're supposed to be pattern tested when they set the pop-off pressures, but I'm not sure on whether the apprentice got my job and it may have been done or not. I may revisit this later.

I did remove a welsh plug either side of the block and it was pretty nasty in there. I'm guessing it had been run with a blown head gasket for a long time. There wasn't so much actual rust on the internal walls (maybe Evaporust gave it a touch up?) as there was an inch or two of magnetic "mud/sludge" on the bottom of the coolant galleries.
I realise that stripping the engine, hot tanking the block would be the ideal preferred way forward but as stated this machine has nearly reached its time and money allowance.
So spent a couple of hours with a bent up bit of wire and a magnetic pick-up tools and got most of the "mud" out through the openings alongwith the coolant drain hole.
Hit it with some degreaser and kept going, eventually ended up with a pressure washer blowing in.

Yes, very primitive and I run the risk of blowing chunks of rubbish into the smaller galleries in the head and then onto the radiator, but I figured it needed to be stripped to fix it anyway, so the risk was worth it.
At the end everything was clean to touch and being a 3 cylinder I could get to most of it from the plugs removed on each side.

Flushed and flushed some more prior to filling the radiator and then flushed again multiple times with the entire cooling system involved.
Finally fired it up to heat cycle it and low and behold, all precomp cover temps are no more than 80c under load and all within about 10%.
Head temp is also same (80c) as is block temp. Temp gauge also reading as such.

So it appears as if my initial suspicion was correct, no coolant flow, it enters at #1 and exits at #1 and wasn't going anywhere else.
I had to leave at that point to go up and muster and pull the bulls out, so I gave it another dose of Evaporust and it's been sitting for a week now, we'll see if it's still good when I get home in a couple of days.

I think the slobbering was a symptom of the very cold cylinder temps of #1, I'll put ut it under a sustained load if it all checks out good when I get home and see if that cleans up, if not I may get the injectors checked by a different shop to see if that could be an issue.
Thanks for everyone's replies, especially the ones who suggested removing the welsh/core plugs.
I had a remove a few ancillaries to get access, but looks like it was worth the effort.

 

[Pony]

Rightoh update time.
Brought the slasher back down with me, hooked it up and gave it about 45 minutes under a decent load, in high/heavy grass.
2nd low gear 1400rpm, not lugging, but definitely working.
It appears as if everything to do with the cooling system is good, precomp cover temps are pretty even. Block and head temps match, it appears radiator is too efficient as bottom radiator hose is well under top hose temp, but thermostat is doing its job and keeping everything at working temp.

However the slobbering out the exhaust port is still significant, it has lessened after its first hit out at operating temp for who knows how long, but it's still enough that I'd like to find out why it's doing it.
The head only has two exhaust ports, the front one is fed by #1&#2 cylinder, this is the port that has been constantly slobbering throughout. The rear one is dry.

When I cleaned the block I had the fuel tank, etc off so thought I would swap #1 & #3 injector to see if that changed anything, it did not, however it could still be #2 injector at fault as it feeds the same port.

However my question is now, am I right in thinking its an injector?
I installed new nozzles and had the pop-off pressure set by a shop, so I should probably assume they are good, but I don't know where else to point the finger.
If I understand the pump guy correctly, the injector pump either works or it doesn't, it shouldn't inject different rates to each injector.
Injector lines aren't kinked and I have "cleaned" them with compressed air and carby cleaner.
All cylinders are above 360psi and head and valves are new.
There's not much left is there?

I've got it completely back together now, bonnet etc.
So pulling everything off I need to get to the injectors to swap #2 & #3 is a bit of work. Don't know if I'm better off just talking them all to another shop to re-check pop-off and spray pattern while I've got it apart.

But don't want to waste more time and money if someone can suggest something other than injector.

I've been running it without the exhaust manifold and muffler to better see where and when it's slobbering If that makes a difference to anyone's thinking.

Thanks

 

[.RC.]

Would the shop charge you to just test them?

I gave the injectors out of our ford tractor to our local injector shop to rebuild as we had just had the pump done and had not touched them in near thirty years.. When I went to collect them, they said they tested them, they were fine and needed no work. I said how much and they said nothing. Testing them is quick and easy they said.

 

[Pony]

I've been getting my parts from a tractor joint in Logan Village and he's giving me trade pricing so I've been giving him all my business so far.
However his pop-off tester was broken when I fitted my nozzles and he was in the process of importing a flash one from abroad.
So I ended up going to a well known diesel injection company in Toowoomba, they charged me nothing to quickly check the pop-off, said it was way to high.
Come back in 2 days well have them set, $170 please. Not really whinging about the price, if it was done correctly.
From memory the new nozzles only cost me $180.
If I do go the rechecking route, I'll go back to the tractor-shop, they should have their new tester by now.
They will look after me, just don't want to go to the labour to pull them out plus the drive, if I'm wrong and it's something completely different.
Hence asking the brains trust.

I forgot to mention in my previous post, the miss is still there, comes with a puff of smoke. Either goes away at higher revs or I'm not good enough to pick it up.

 

[Pony]

Ended up just swapping the injectors, slobber stayed in the front exhaust port.
So best guess it's just normal slobbering from cold cylinder temps on #1.
I'll give it some more work, try and find something productive for it to do where I can load it up for an extended period and see if that does the trick.
Thanks again to everyone who replied.

 

[Vetech63]

Pic of this slobbering you are referring to?

 

[Pony]

Sorry to say I don't have any, I thought I did but nothing on phone.
It's now totally together and I degreased the side of the block where it was dribbling down with the exhaust manifold was removed.
I'll be trucking it up to my properties in a few days, I have a bit of slashing that needs doing so we'll see how it goes.
I'll report back.

 

[Pony]

Got the flu, so haven't left yet.
Cleaning up all the parts I removed to see if anything is worth saving, didn't really look at this when I pulled it off other than it was broken.
I'm guessing even though the last readable number is white, that because there is another "dial" to the left of it then that would be the tenths of an hour number. So it is showing 31353.? hrs?
I'd love to know the actual hours on the machine. It's looks to have been broken for a while.
The flexible drive shaft from the cam was broken as us the pointer on the gauge.
Definitely bottom end of the motor untouched, injector pump still original, injectors we're I believe untouched till I replaced the nozzles.

 

[Pony]

Just thinking I've never seen an hour metre read more than 10000hrs, but if the 3 in the first white "dial" is tenths of an hour, what's the far right dial? I've also never seen an hour metre read less than tenths of an hour either.

 

[.RC.]

Pretty sure the white numbered one will be tenths. I have seen one somewhere on some old tractor I was driving at the time(probably an old fordson power major), where the last one was just a back and white dial. It would just flick black to white all the time. Probably just to let you know the hourmeter is still working.

 

[Mobiltech]

I would say 3135.3.