Perkins T4.236 Garrett TA3107 Turbo Replacement Options.

[havokeachday]

Hi,

I just pulled the turbo from my JCB 1550B and am looking for replacement options. The turbo is a Garrett TA3107 and the part # is 465778-6. They aren't very easy to find online and are $1200-1800. I was wondering if anyone had any idea about interchanging the turbo with a different(cheaper) model.

Also, the engine is supposedly rated @ ~100hp, with the turbo and the non-turbo versions are ~80. Do you think I would be able to get away without using a turbo at all and still have reasonable performance?

Thanks!

 

[DMiller]

Engine is designed for the turbo additional air, eliminate it you will shovel too much fuel, it will not develop HP as needed. Fuel delivery rate, timing, pistons and most likely head are designed for extra pressure. $1000 and up for any turbo is pretty reasonable around here.

 

[havokeachday]

Engine is designed for the turbo additional air, eliminate it you will shovel too much fuel, it will not develop HP as needed. Fuel delivery rate, timing, pistons and most likely head are designed for extra pressure. $1000 and up for any turbo is pretty reasonable around here.

Thanks for the info.

Has anyone tried chinese turbos? Seem to be a few places that make them for about half the price.

Also, would any other model turbos work? There are very few places that seem to sell the exact model I have.

 

[DMiller]

Check the local fuel injection shops, many of these will have suppliers or rebuilders they use, could even have yours resealed/rebuilt. All turbochargers are not the same, housing variables, geometry variables inside, designed for certain flows of exhaust and HP produced.

 

[thepumpguysc]

You can probably get 1 rebuilt for around 500.00.
OR a factory "center section" or cartridge for less.. and swap the housings.
I'll check on Monday.

 

[havokeachday]

Thanks for the advice guys.

The turbine housing is completely rusted out. The rest of it looks like it should be rebuild-able though.

 

[syndy]

I used to work for a turbo re-builder in Miami. I can tell you from my experience as a hands-on shop manager, BUY NEW. We did welding blade build up on the aluminum side, then grind, machine and balance. On the exhaust side the same thing. We did aircraft with strict regulations and heavy equipment with none. With anyone doing this there are problems in many ways. Trying to get the blades on both the exhaust and output side to match the original specs to the housings was impossible, we guessed it was ok. Welding on the housings, shafts and impellers don't come close to the original, materials are different and the grain size of the material (welds) are different causing weak spots. Trying to balance the shaft and impeller assembly was extremely hard to do and had no consistency. (You put it into a balance machine, check it then grind off metal and do this until you think it's good). Testing was the biggest problem and I would guess that some never test the units. I designed a test stand that had large tanks of compressed air outside, like 500 gallons each. The airlines came inside to a large ball valve and to adapters at the end of the line. The unit was mounted and oil lines plugged in and when the tanks were full the ball valve was opened. We could spin the unit up to 20,000 rpm for about 4 minutes and that's it. If it didn't wipe out it was considered ok. One guy went to put on the safety guard after the unit started to spin up and it sucked his thumb right into AL side. Be careful if you have it apart but running as it can happen on the engine. I personally stay away from any thing with a turbo as my thinking is "simple is better". On another note, one of the worse things you can do to a turbo is to do a fast shut down. The reason being the turbo can be turning up to and over 20,000rpm and still spinning with no oil pressure. Bye, bye bearings which are only bronze bushings with six oil holes drilled in them. That is my opinion and I stand by it.