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Newholland LS185b injection pump?

Justwaiting

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Nov 4, 2012
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16
Location
Texas
Hello. I am working on this unit with a no start problem. The filter has been changed as well as the lift pump and the lines have been bled. Still nothing.
While bleeding the lines I noticed that the center injector line had a lot more flow than the front and back lines. I am leaning toward the injection pump as
the culpret but I am not set up to test pressures. If it is the pump can someone tell me how to set the timming to TDC before I pull the pump off to be rebuilt
or replaced?
Any help would be appreciated.
Just.
 

Justwaiting

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Nov 4, 2012
Messages
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Location
Texas
No willie, its a 3 cyl. and the tag says CNH U.K. limited. The inj. pump is made in Germany but I can't see a manufacture name on it.
 

Justwaiting

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Nov 4, 2012
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Location
Texas
I am not well versed in injection pumps but I know its best to have the number 1 cyl TDC on compression before you remove them. I don't have the specs on timming this engine though.
 

Justwaiting

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Nov 4, 2012
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Location
Texas
Thanks for the response willie. I have to run to town. I will be back in about an hour and hope to get started on that pump if you think that might be the problem.
The guy told me it just started loosing power then sputtered a couple of times then died and hasn't started sense.
 

willie59

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The guy told me it just started loosing power then sputtered a couple of times then died and hasn't started sense.

That sounds like a fuel delivery restriction. I'm seeing an inline fuel filter in line from tank at the parts pages, have you checked that filter?
 

Justwaiting

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Nov 4, 2012
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Location
Texas
not yet. I cant seem to find one. I pulled the pick up tube from the tank and traced it to the line all the way back to the lift pump. The only filter I find is the one before the injection pump. I agree it sounds like it is starved or lost its prime
 

willie59

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Well, it's your call, removing pump, just sounds like a rare thing for the engine to be running, loose power, sputter, then die, being a faulty injection pump. Not saying it can't happen, just saying unusual. I'd scratch my head for a few before proceeding, make dang certain I don't have a fuel supply problem.

BTW, sputter/die, doesn't sound like a problem with fuel shutoff solenoid failure. If that solenoid failed while running, not likely that it would have lost power and sputtered for a moment, instead it would have died straightaway, just like turning key off.
 

Justwaiting

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Nov 4, 2012
Messages
16
Location
Texas
I agree, thanks for the help. I think I will investigate further before I go to the pump. The machine has 1600 hrs on it and he said he had the injectors changed at 400 hrs.
But if I do end up at the pump, can you tell me how to set the timming before I pull it.
 

willie59

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Can't offer specific help as I've never worked on one of those engines, but most engines have methods, timing marks, etc, to set timing for pump removal/install. But in general terms, most engines time on #1 TDC, I have seen rare exceptions however, might be best to contact a NH service dept and ask them if they'll fax you some specific information, just to be safe about it. Most service depts will willingly offer this info.

At the very least, if you can verify it times on #1 TDC, and if you don't get any info on how to get it there, what I do is bump the starter to verify which direction engine rotates, disconnect the battery, then remove the injectors (gotta disconnect the lines anyway to remove pump, and it makes it easier to bar engine over). Then find a way to bar engine over by hand while holding your thumb over #1 injector hole. When #1 piston begins to come up on compression stroke the pressure will push against your thumb. Straighten a piece of soft tie wire, drop it in the injector hole until it sits on top of piston. Begin to slowly bar engine, the piston will push the wire out of the hole. Stop and adjust position of wire so it doesn't bind as it's being pushed out. When you get to TDC, it will stop pushing wire out of injector hole. You might want to put a mark on crank pulley when you hit this spot, bar engine back, then bar up to TDC again while checking the mark you made just to verify, you're gonna be real close at that point and can begin pump removal.

That's about as far as I can take you. After you've got your spot, it's a matter of removing supply and injection lines, disconnecting line to aneroid valve, disconnecting electrical, might even have to remove that fuel filter as it might get in the way of pump removal. There should be a cover on flywheel end of engine to remove and access pump drive gear. I have know idea what's going to be required there, typically a nut on shaft to remove, but I can't tell what that small gear in illustration is and what it does. Most injection pumps have a tapered shaft, which requires a puller to pull gear from pump shaft, but again, I can't tell how that one is set up.

Once you get the drive gear sorted out, it's time to remove mounting nuts for pump. But before you do that, take a center punch and make marks on nose of pump and plate on flywheel housing where pump mounts, this is to make sure pump is re-installed in the same position before it was removed.



LS185B injection pump.gif
 

Justwaiting

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Nov 4, 2012
Messages
16
Location
Texas
Thanks for the help willie. It sounds like it will help if I come to that. You are much better at finding stuff than I am. I searched the net but I couldn't find anything like those two pics that you posted.
 

thepumpguysc

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Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
I SURE HOPE you got some info from NH on pump removal BEFORE you started !! PUMP DRIVE IS NOT KEYED and can go on 360 ways from Sunday.
Willie59's info is good..Once you find TDC there should be a pump drive shaft locking bolt on the side of the pump, loosen it, remove the spacer plate and lock the driveshaft in position..KEEP OR TIE the locking plate to the pump or you'll get charged for a new one.
99% of those pumps I do are destroyed from the inside due to improper filter replacement, bad lift pump or air in the system..They literaly beat themselves apart. I have the Bosch service bulliten where they address the problem due to the # of "suspected" warrantys they received..
IF the pump is deemed bad from your fuel shop, they should give you this info, otherwise its gonna happen again..$$$$ [if its beat apart like I suspect]
 

Justwaiting

Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2012
Messages
16
Location
Texas
Merry Christmas to you guys!
Thanks pumpguys for responding. Yes willie's advice is sound and lines up with my experience (limited experience) in the past. I haven't had a chance to do much else to it
sense then but hope to get back on it tomorrow. I have read other posts about this pump and machine having that problem of the pump destroying itself. Just my luck, I
always seem to end up with the odd ball stuff.
I will let you all know what I find.
Thanks again.
 
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