New CTL owner, many questions for the pros

[MG84]

Just picked up a brand new Kubota SVL65-2 this week. Never owned one before but I do have many hours of seat time running wheeled skid steers and dozers. I currently also own a Case 1845c skid steer and Case 450c wide track dozer. The new CTL will augment the line up and do most of the skid steer work where a track machine is more appropriate. Dozer will still be used for finish grading, slope work and larger dirt jobs.

With all that being said, I have several questions for the guys that run these every day. I've searched on here and while some of this has been covered, many of the threads were close to 10yrs old and these machines were in their infancy back then. So here are my question regarding operation and maintenance:

1. How often do you shovel out the tracks when working in muddy conditions? The undercarriage seems to load up with mud a lot quicker than on my dozer. I've been cleaning it out 2-3 times a day but maybe that's excessive?

2. What do you do for compaction when doing small flat work or pads? I used to just use my wheeled skid steer with a full bucket of dirt, and shallow lifts, to get the compaction I needed on small jobs (that weren't big enough to justify a sheepsfoot.) With only 4.1psi ground pressure compaction is next to nothing with this CTL.

3. What is the advantage of a long bottom vs short bottom bucket? All of my current buckets are standard length, short bottom buckets. I can see the cutting edge fine and they seem to provide the greatest breakout force. What am I missing about a long bottom bucket?

4. What is the accelerator pedal for? I usually just set the throttle and go (normally wide open), can't see much need to be constantly varying the throttle on a hydrostatic machine.

5. Tips for good track life? I pretty much figure it's the same as for a dozer, don't pivot turn unless needed, don't side hill unless needed, don't twist them up on off camber, avoid big rocks, etc. Is it ok to go fast in reverse or is that not a problem for rubber track machines?

I'm sure I'll have more questions coming up but that's a start. Thanks in advance.

Pic of the new machine:

 

[KSSS]

Just picked up a brand new Kubota SVL65-2 this week. Never owned one before but I do have many hours of seat time running wheeled skid steers and dozers. I currently also own a Case 1845c skid steer and Case 450c wide track dozer. The new CTL will augment the line up and do most of the skid steer work where a track machine is more appropriate. Dozer will still be used for finish grading, slope work and larger dirt jobs.

With all that being said, I have several questions for the guys that run these every day. I've searched on here and while some of this has been covered, many of the threads were close to 10yrs old and these machines were in their infancy back then. So here are my question regarding operation and maintenance:

1. How often do you shovel out the tracks when working in muddy conditions? The undercarriage seems to load up with mud a lot quicker than on my dozer. I've been cleaning it out 2-3 times a day but maybe that's excessive? I only clean off at the end of the day and then only if its cold enough to freeze the mud and lock the machine up. Periodically I power wash the machine off and get it totally clean. Other than that, I don't sweat it too much. That may be a machine specific issue to consider, depending on how it is built.

2. What do you do for compaction when doing small flat work or pads? I used to just use my wheeled skid steer with a full bucket of dirt, and shallow lifts, to get the compaction I needed on small jobs (that weren't big enough to justify a sheepsfoot.) With only 4.1psi ground pressure compaction is next to nothing with this CTL. We use a plate compactor or twin drum roller for smaller stuff. Track packing with a CTL can still be somewhat effective.

3. What is the advantage of a long bottom vs short bottom bucket? All of my current buckets are standard length, short bottom buckets. I can see the cutting edge fine and they seem to provide the greatest breakout force. What am I missing about a long bottom bucket? I primarily use extended lip buckets. I do have one short bottom bucket that I have teeth mounted on for really tough digging. My machines have around 8700 pounds of bucket breakout, so while I lose some breakout force with the longer bottom buckets, it is not enough to matter if your machine has good breakout. Kubota does not, but maybe still enough to do what you need to do with it. If your not doing a lot of excavating holes in virgin soil, you likely get by just fine with an extended lip bucket. Otherwise, I would get two buckets, extended lip and short bottom. The extended lip buckets make seeing the cutting edge much easier. Making it easier to do almost everything. They also hold a little more material. I am OCD about matching the bucket for the job. I have 90" extended lip bucket ELB, 84" ELB, 78" ELB. 78" ELB with hyd tilt capability, and an 84" short lip with a tooth bar mounted on it. Having the right sized and configured bucket for the job, makes/saves you money.

4. What is the accelerator pedal for? I usually just set the throttle and go (normally wide open), can't see much need to be constantly varying the throttle on a hydrostatic machine. There is a place for WOT, but modulating the throttle is a big advantage as well. If you are communicating with ground guys, instantly pulling off the foot throttle allows quick talking ability. Doing lighter work you can modulate the throttle for the task at hand, saves fuel, less noise. I will sometimes set the throttle at 50% and modulate by foot if I need more. The machine should function just fine hydrostatically at 50% throttle.

5. Tips for good track life? I pretty much figure it's the same as for a dozer, don't pivot turn unless needed, don't side hill unless needed, don't twist them up on off camber, avoid big rocks, etc. Is it ok to go fast in reverse or is that not a problem for rubber track machines? Some things to think about when running rubber CTL tracks. Speed in any direction for an extended period of time is not your friend with CTL tracks. The cables in the tracks get hot with speed which can reduce life of the rubber. The ASV/MTL machines run Kevlar tracks, you can go as fast as you want without having that issue. You have the rest of it. I would just make sure you keep the tension on the tracks correct. I run mine a little more loose to help kick out rocks, since that is primarily what I deal with. I don't have detracking issues running it that way, even on slopes. Running them tighter in those conditions creates problems with snapping the steel in CTL tracks or locking up the tracks when rocks get wedged. I would at least keep them set to run according to the OEM suggestions
I'm sure I'll have more questions coming up but that's a start. Thanks in advance.

Pic of the new machine:
View attachment 279087

 

[zeroo]

I have a svl75, i never use the pedal. I wish it was decelerating pedal, that would be awesome. I run wide open and if I’m against something it would be nice to quickly throttle down for a sec.

 

[MG84]

Thanks for the replies, that's a lot of good information I was looking for.

Another question I have is regarding the DPF since this is the first machine I've owned with that system. I know idling isn't good for it but what about running at say, 50% throttle doing light work like finish grading, is that OK? Or for maximum DPF life should it be run at full throttle most of the time? It says in the manual at 3000hrs the DPF needs to be "cleaned" by the dealer, never heard of anyone getting this done, only replacing the system when it goes bad.

Another thing, as per the owners manual there is no 50hr initial engine oil change and regular oil changes only every 500hrs. That seems too long, every other diesel I own has an interval of 200-250hrs. Are they assuming these engines just run that much cleaner?

 

[zeroo]

Thanks for the replies, that's a lot of good information I was looking for.

Another question I have is regarding the DPF since this is the first machine I've owned with that system. I know idling isn't good for it but what about running at say, 50% throttle doing light work like finish grading, is that OK? Or for maximum DPF life should it be run at full throttle most of the time? It says in the manual at 3000hrs the DPF needs to be "cleaned" by the dealer, never heard of anyone getting this done, only replacing the system when it goes bad.

Another thing, as per the owners manual there is no 50hr initial engine oil change and regular oil changes only every 500hrs. That seems too long, every other diesel I own has an interval of 200-250hrs. Are they assuming these engines just run that much cleaner?

Yes, kubota killed all the early first maintenance on their equipment. I guess there is no real reason for it, except the final drives and your one hydraulic filter thats in your manual. I didnt change primary suction and return in both my svl and u48 as per manual, but i did change oil at about 50hr just to put in synthetic 5/40. The 5/40 is not an accepted viscosity from kubota, but after countless research and discussion with dealers it’s the best modern diesel viscosity out there. Kubota does not manufacture/offer it so they will not update their specs. This is from customer service.

As far as the dpf, dont worry about it, just run it how you want to, but understand the pumps work best with full throttle. There is a pump that feeds another pump on these things and one could get starved a little under heavy use with multiple requirements at low throttle. The dpf may or may not do passive regen with high heat/rpms. Who knows. It depends on humidity imo.

 

[KSSS]

I think most everyone is at a 500 hr interval on oil changes now. That said I always change it at 200-250 on the initial oil change, just so all that break in material in the oil gets dumped. It should run just fine at half throttle for fine grading and pallet work. The OEM's that I am familiar with test their machines at 50% and full throttle. I doubt that Kubota would require full throttle for light machine to work. If that is the case, there is no reason for a foot throttle.

 

[gggraham]

There is a narrow and wide track available for this machine a 320mm (13 in) or a 400mm (16in). Maybe you have the wider 400mm track they do tend to clog up easier and can also trap stones or hard clumps between track and the frame.
Tips for long track life you covered it, another thing that destroys rubber track is leaving them in the sun. If they sit in the hot sun they will be susceptible to UV cracking some call it ozone cracking. Also buy a good quality track, sometimes the weight of a track will tell you a lot. Cheap tracks weigh a lot less than good quality they have less steel and thinner rubber. I uploaded a track guide for you from Bridgestone hope it helps.

 

[MG84]

I think I will just change the oil as per my service schedule for my older equipment (50hr, then every 200-250hr). I just don't feel good about going 500hrs on an oil change.

gggraham, yes it is a wide track. If a root happens to get caught between the frame and the track then mud does build up in between. Thanks for the PDF, I haven't read all of it yet but it does have a lot of good information.