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Need opinions

Joined
Feb 13, 2022
Messages
15
Location
Louisville, OH
I'm looking to buy a mack tri axle dump truck they are anywhere between 95-08 but don't know much about them one is a model gu713 and a rd688s then a couple cl713 and a cv713 they all have some high miles on them but hey gotta start somewhere any help would be great thanks.
 

westerner

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
312
Location
Northern Arizona
We had several CV713 10 wheelers in our fleet. Model years from 2000 to 2006. Municipal use, outfitted for slide in water tanks and cinder spreaders. ('salters' to most of ya).
Mack 13 liter IEGR engines, with 10 speeds. 3 had 5 speed Allisons.

The soot these engines produce due to the Integral EGR was excessive. Oil change intervals at 6k, two filters AND the Mack centrifugal filter on it were required to keep the oil sample results in a range Mack said was OK.
The Cat dealer did our oil samples. When they first saw the results, they did NOT call the range OK.....

The idle time these engines endured was very hard on them.
 

CM1995

Administrator
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
15,952
Location
Alabama
Occupation
Running what I brung and taking what I win
Welcome to the Forums MZ! Glad to have you.

Let's start with the first question - What is your budget?
 

Truck Shop

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
25,154
Location
WWW.
One thing to remember EGT's on trucks that don't pull long grades or run at a steady exhaust temp
usually suffer when it comes to DPF-EGR. High soot levels are very common. A waste oil burner even
has a hard time if oil is not cut with diesel.
 

westerner

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
312
Location
Northern Arizona
The integral EGR on these engines was simply an extra bump on the camshaft exhaust lobe. Regardless of engine speed, load or coolant temp
the intake charge got a little shot of exhaust gas straight from the exhaust manifold. OTR trucks from the same vintage had an early version of
'cooled' EGR that had it's own problems, I am sure. I have no experience with them.
 

dieseldog5.9

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
710
Location
New Hampshire
I think we got off track with this poor guy right out of the gate, getting back to CM1995's question about budget is a good place to start.

50-60k is a decent budget, yes you can get a decent used truck for this budget. I own a CV713 and it is a fantastic dump truck. It is agile, not real fast, not shinny, not real powerful, but goes back and forth from the pit, has a cup holder, and air conditioning, and is a hard shifting SOB. (Mack 9speed)

There are some idiosycrycies with Mack as their are with any manufacturer of anything.

RD Models personally are not comfortable if you are taller than 5'10
Commonly double framed trucks, watch for rust between the rails.
Trunion stands can crack with Mack Camelback suspension.
Mack transmissions are a SOB to shift, and expensive to fix
Newer trucks have emissions 06-up ( I am guessing here)
some of the 99-04 engines can be doggy, with odd power bands.

Look for a truck with an 8 speed eaton fuller, 427 engine, or a 350 mechanical, 18k front and 44 rears, not air ride.
 

Former Wrench

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2014
Messages
492
Location
Montesano, WA
Occupation
Retired
You might try a cold call to Schermer Const. in Hoquiam, Wa. 360/533-5866. They have been Mack foreveer and have a 10-12 dump truck fleet of this model and about the same era. They run everyday and pull pups to do logging road const & repair.The worst that can happen is they hang up. Good luck.
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
10,147
Location
sw missouri
I'm 6'6" and have a mid 90's R model (same cab, different hood than a RD). I don't drive it everyday, but I can drive it, and don't find it a lot worse than anything else for room. I think its better than a t800 kw day cab for leg room. I hit my shin in the lower part of the dash on the same era t800.

My R model is a EM-6 300L with a 9 speed mack. Its no high speed road machine, but it has great torque low in the RPM's. I don't find my 9 speed that hard to shift, its just kind of tight- you have to be on the money to shift.

If you have pictures or links (truck paper, craigslist, dealer) to the trucks that you are looking at, maybe we could be more help.

$50-$60,000 should buy you a pretty nice truck.
 

CM1995

Administrator
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
15,952
Location
Alabama
Occupation
Running what I brung and taking what I win
There are some idiosycrycies with Mack as their are with any manufacturer of anything.

RD Models personally are not comfortable if you are taller than 5'10
Commonly double framed trucks, watch for rust between the rails.
Trunion stands can crack with Mack Camelback suspension.
Mack transmissions are a SOB to shift, and expensive to fix
Newer trucks have emissions 06-up ( I am guessing here)
some of the 99-04 engines can be doggy, with odd power bands.

Look for a truck with an 8 speed eaton fuller, 427 engine, or a 350 mechanical, 18k front and 44 rears, not air ride.

There was a cutoff on the 2007 year model Granite's if I remember correctly. The 2007 Granite I had was non-emission and no DEF. I think the later 2007's had DPF filters.
 
Joined
Feb 13, 2022
Messages
15
Location
Louisville, OH
Ya I wanna stay away from def and dpf I drive now for a glass company and it seems like we're always having probs with the def header motor and always needing regen
 

PeterG

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
Messages
776
Location
United States
Occupation
Contractor
That budget seems quite low to me unless you're looking for something closer to the 1995 range. Hard to find anything close to 2005 to 2007 in that price range in great shape. Dealers had them in the $70-95,000 range. Whatever you buy, expect to put in $10,000 to $20,000 to get it right. That number could be a lot higher if the Dealer is doing a lot of the labor. Most of the trucks are going to have an old box and lift, air leaks, needs some tires, and other general maintenance. A big shock to me, was just how much it is to insure, register with the state, heavy highway tax etc. I looked at Granites for a long time but ended up with a 2007 Kenworth. The price was just $56,000. I had it shipped from the east coast to me here out west for $6000. I'm close to $90,000 into it now. But I've done a lot to it, to make it my pride and joy.
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
10,147
Location
sw missouri
Just for clarification, are you wanting a truck with 4 total axles, or three total axles? Steer, lift axle, and tandems- or just steer and tandems? People mean different things when saying the same thing. "Tri axle" dump in my area would actually be a 4 axle truck (steer + lift + tandems) , because a three axle truck is a "tandem".

Also makes a difference how you are using it. Are you doing just onsite work? Hauling a trailer with excavator? Hauling asphalt or rock for hire, or by the load, driving the truck all day every day as a dump truck?

Personally, if I was buying a dump truck, I'd want a 18k-20k front axle, and 40-46k rears. I like a spring over walking beam suspension (just because they are pretty tough and stable) , but a lot of the guys hauling all day every day, run air suspension to make the empty trips a nicer ride. That's why it makes a difference what you're doing every day with it.

If you're just doing site work, a 10 liter motor is fine. If you're pulling a triple axle trailer with a big excavator on it, you're probably going to want a little more power. Or if you're getting paid by the load, and living in hilly country, you're going to want to scoot down the road both loaded and empty. Time is money.

In my area, there's two types of dump trucks. One is the big quarry and excavating companies, that are running 2-5 year old trucks, maybe with some warranty, and trading them out and getting new trucks all the time.

The small haulers (4-5 trucks or less) and small excavating companies, mostly run older pre 2005 to late 80's pete, kw, mack, with pre emmisions motors, some of them pre electronic engines. Just to be able to work on them without extensive electronic diagnostic equipment.

So when there's issues with the truck you are buying, is this a repair yourself (you have the tools and a place to fix it, and some know how), or a "its going to someone" for repair? Because that makes a difference to, on what you buy.
 

Truck Shop

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
25,154
Location
WWW.
Older trucks of any type, brand are bringing high dollars at this time. I don't know about Mack but PacCar
and Freightliner are only allocating X amount of trucks a dealer can order this year. So new trucks are hard
to come by and driving the price on used up drastically-any brand.
 

suladas

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
1,763
Location
Canada
In that area I think the older you go the better, provided the age things like rust aren't an issue, newer it is more electronics and some emissions pre 07. Also find if you buy a 05, or a 95, it's going to need a lot of the same stuff, things like hoist, air lines, tires, brakes, etc but regardless the newer truck will still be more money to buy. Not a Mack fan myself, only drove them a few times but the cabs and pedal placement were so awful I wouldn't even consider them. Wouldn't be afraid of high miles if it's looked after somewhat, in many cases i'd take a 5-10 year older truck with more mileage then the newer ones full of emissions on them that ruin the engines, so many of the older engines just last forever and if they need work anyone can work on them don't need any computers. If not pulling anything smaller engine is the way to go as they are much cheaper.

Do agree with above, if you are going to do repairs compared to not if makes a difference what you should buy. A older truck can be hard to make profitable if you don't do anything yourself because little things are going to come up, got to be willing to fix lights, air lines, weld a crack in the tailgate, etc. Otherwise spending the extra money on something pretty new is the better option.
 
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