Need information on my D 4 E

[Nitelite]

I think the order of the pictures was jumbled in cyber space but you should be able to figure out what picture goes with what text.

#1 This is the UC on my D4E, are these SALT track chains or just the regular old kind?

#2 Shown in this picture is the back side if the key switch, ( the battery disconnect switch). If I turn the key on and then turn the glow plug / starter switch to the start position all is well and the machine starts and runs just fine. The problem is if I forget and fail to turn the key switch to the on position and then hit the starter there is an 24 volt arc at the key switch sort of like there is a dead short where the switch is bolted to the frame. It actually burned a hole in the switch mounting plate. I am thinking that there must be a ground problem somewhere. Seems like when I crank the starter that it wants to ground where the key switch touches the frame. The reason that the nut is loose on the terminal at the back of the disconnect in the picture is that I was in the middle of checking it out at the time the picture was taken.

I am sure that if I insulated the key switch from the frame that would seem to fix the problem. If I do insulate the switch, I think that I might just be taking care of the symptom and not really finding the original problem. Everything about the switch checks out ok with an ohm meter, and it don't show a shorted switch. For fear of forgetting to turn the switch on before trying to start the machine I just leave the key in it in the on position, but I don't like doing that. Any ideas?

#3 In this picture what is the dip stick and filler tube on the right. The dip stick has printed on it, (check with engine running). The dip stick and filler tube on the left is to check engine oil. I am thinking that the one on the right is to check hydraulic fluid? There is also a sight glass to check the hydraulic fluid and a lockable filler tube above the hood. Am I missing something or is there two places to check and add hydraulic fluid on the D4E?

D6 Merv has a D4E, what do you say Merv? Also a question for Merv or anyone else who owns a D4E, What is the rod travel, from fully retracted to fully extended, of your blade tilt cylinder? My blade tilt cylinder has been replaced, is not OEM, and I think that it is too short.

 

[mitch504]

Well, I can help with half of your questions.

The dipstick that says check with engine running is an engine oil dipstick. That used to be the way Cat specced to check the oil in almost all their engines. The fact that you have a dipstick on each side may mean that that 3304 was originally in something other than a dozer.

The battery cutoff switch is in the ground circuit. The internal insulation of the switch is probably breaking down, and when you hit start with the key off, that heavy rush of current is probably enough to short across. This is my first guess, and I will keep thinking about it.
One more thought, try switching the wires on the terminals.

 

[willd8r]

yes they are salt tracks.thats why there is a rubber plug in the pin.
Cheers

 

[d9gdon]

I agree that the disconnect switch must be going bad. I have seen a ground cable from one post of that switch to whatever it is mounted to, like the firewall. Here's a cheap one (7N0718) if you don't want to go thru Cat:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Caterpillar+Equipment+Battery+Disconnect+Switch+

 

[DPete]

Those rails are in nice shape, RE: ground switch, check the connection where the cable grounds to the machine, clean and be sure the all connections are clean and tight, I see one terminal on the switch that is loose. replace the switch. Those bolt on terminal ends I see are ok for temporary repair but you should have new ends crimped on if possible for a better connection

 

[Old Magnet]

Can't tell your battery connections but the switch should be in the ground circuit, not the "hot". Yes there should be a heavy ground cable to the frame, connected usually to the starter ground post or sometimes uses the switch terminal as mentioned.

Check the amperage rating of the switch as they come in several ratings, some are really light duty and foreign sourced.

 

[Nitelite]

Thanks for the input

Here are better pictures of the two dip sticks and the off breed tilt cylinder.

 

[D4E SA]

The dipstick on the left side of picture is the engine oil the dip stick to the right side of the picture is for the oil clutch. Is your D4 a 27X that would be a direct drive transmission .

 

[Buckethead]

Looking at the blade, that looks like a 4A manual angle blade. All the old manual angle blades I have seen like that were manual tilt. Maybe that cylinder was an option, or an aftermarket attachment? If it works, I would leave it alone. If you get some Cat manuals it would be helpful. Maybe you could find used ones on eBay, or reproductions to save money.

 

[D6 Merv]

Yep forward one is engine, rear one oil clutch. Sight gauge above it is hydraulics; one inside the door by fuel tank is transmission/bevelgear/steering clutchs.
Disconnect switch should be between neg post and earth. Definetly not hot side.
Angle blade tilt cylinders. Cat NEVER offered this on D4 A blades. Bull blades yes. But countless people have had them made up and fitted to all sorts of different A blades. A lot of people say you have to have 2 rams; and yes it gives you more tilt. But One does work ok. And I have 2 D4s one of each version. If yours is working ok nitelite I would NOT alter it. Reason I say this is you will start to create other problems like breaking centre pins or cracking the back plate of the blade. A blades that were made for power tilt all have ball joints to help the blade roll while tilting over [ie D6C/D D7F/G] in there arms. D4 is straight pins.
Bottom line is they originally only had turnbuckles and manuel tilt on 4A blade was 18" and this was achieved by winding 1 side out and other in. Havnt measured either of mine but that would be about what ive got. Check yours nitelite, and see if tilt travel is even over both sides [ ie ram is central when blades level] Other thing that happens is on the centre pin the boss wears into the "C" frame and this makes the blade top pitch forward abit and this can cause centre pins to snap too. You will see this as a groove will be worn in C frame. That centre pin does need abit of end float in it tho from my experience at least 1/2 inch.
My thoughts would be to just reseal it and leave as is if its worked so far Tis a lot easier than winding screws and you only just need abit of tilt to lead you at times ! or correct yourself !
Early D4s had a toothed arrangement to tilt blades and they were a real pita to use. and i got one of them too ! But just leave blade flat on that one

 

[Old Magnet]

The D4E 4S and other D4 models had a factory tilt cylinder/s that are 4.73 in. bore and 4" stroke. Maximum hydraulic blade tilt travel is 12.2 inches. Arrangement has ball joint at blade and strut on the other. As Marv states hydraulic tilt was never offered on the 4A blade.

 

[Nitelite]

That sounds logical.

The dipstick on the left side of picture is the engine oil the dip stick to the right side of the picture is for the oil clutch. Is your D4 a 27X that would be a direct drive transmission .

It is a 27X and it is a direct drive. The fellow that I bought the dozer from told me to use hydraulic fluid in the hydraulics and SAE 30 oil in the engine and in everything else. So does that sound right for the clutch oil too?

I did order a new disconnect key switch off of the recommended E bay site. I will pick up a heavy duty cable tomorrow and some heavy duty cable ends.

I am glad to find out that the tracks are SALT. No more than I will use the dozer on my 35 acres, I imagine the UC will out last me.

Thanks for the tips.

I intend to get a repair manual when I can. I have an operators manual and a parts manual. The operators manual is not too informative. My direct drive D4E has a decelerator pedal. How and when do I use that pedal?

 

[DPete]

Use the decelerator any time you want to slow down, easier than reaching for the throttle

 

[Old Magnet]

At the time the machine was produced engine oil was a API/CD class SAE30.
Transmission, bevel gear,steering clutches and oil clutch are CD/TO-2 SAE30
Hydraulic system is HYDO SAE10W
Final drives were LO SAE50
All of the above for above 32 deg. F operation.

The latest Cat spec now recommends SAE40 for precombustion engines.
TDTO oil SAE30 for the transmission and SAE50 would be the current drive train oils.

 

[D6 Merv]

That's interesting OM; strange cat now decide 30 odd years after last making PC engines that we should run a straight 40 oil ????
wonder how many oil companys other than cat produce a acceptable 40 oil ??
I always understood most engine wear occurs at start up; am sure the 15W40 will flow a lot better at start up than straight 40.
They also used to state it was quite acceptable to run 10W in the crankcase even if daytime temps got up to 20C. And have seen people run that with no problems too; and claim they used less fuel with the thinner oil. ....interesting, cheers :drinkup

 

[Old Magnet]

Hi Marv,
Yes, I am kind of wrestling with that one too. After running 30wt for all these year it seems odd to change now. Not a lot of difference in the spec. I suspect it may be due to changes in formulation and testing for the "modern" oils. Nowhere have I found that it is benificial to run multi weight oils with their polymer additives in these old engines and may even be detrimental.