Need help with 1973 580B shuttle

[fk55741]

I recently purchased 1973 Case 580B with front end loader with mechanical shuttle. The transmission is slow to engage in forward or reverse. I drained the shuttle fluid and installed new UTF of which didn't help. I need a photo and location of the mechanical shuttle so I can remove the cover and clean the suction tube screen. Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Others have posted details on this, I believe. I think they were showing how to drill a hole in a specific place, and then you can poke something in and brush off the filter screen.

 

[brucelee]

I had a similar problem with a used 580b many, many moons ago. I took the top off the trans and it looked ok so I reached down into the trans fluid to feel the bottom of the trans thinking there may have been broken teeth. There wasn't but what I found was that the pickup tube had fallen off. The simple fix was to put it back on but what I should have done was somehow secure it instead of simply tapping it back in place. These simple fixes always seem to come back to haunt me, this was no exception.

 

[pac11adp]

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Pac......Very useful information.......it took a good amount of time and effort, and hopefully fk55741 will find it helpful with his problem.

 

[pac11adp]

If a person wants to do it the "book way" I found a post on here a long time ago and I saved the instructions but unfortunately not the name to give credit to it. Anyways here it is:

To get the suction screen out from the top:

If you decide to tackle this job, there is quite alot of stuff you must remove in order to get to the shuttle and pump plate. Besides the obvious stuff, majors are the steering valve, numerous lines, brake linkage, throttle linkages, floor boards, shuttle pedal, valve cover and rocker assembly in order to remove the fuel tank as the pump is located directly under it. I also ended up cutting off the rear tank mount studs about an inch from the tank to ease tank removal. Once the tank was out, I removed all the mounting studs and went back with bolts. I would also recommend tearing the shuttle valve down for inspection and re-sealing it while the spools are out. Also be sure to check your rocker assembly for wear and adjustment. When going back with it, there is a drilled tower bolt that acts as an oiler bolt to keep the assembly lubed. On early model B's, this bolt must thread in the middle tower hole. On later model B's like mine, this bolt must thread in the rear hole. You will need to check your serial number to detirmine if your B is early or late. Regarding the shuttle valve, BE SURE to make a note where the detent ball and spring are under the valve while you are removing it. This detent ball and spring are located toward the front under the forward/reverse spool and can easily fall into the torque converter case while removing the valve. You will see the detent notches at teardown. I have since finished the job and the machine has plenty of trans pressure now and pulls strong once again in any gear. Good luck

 

[Tinkerer]

If a person wants to do it the "book way" I found a post on here a long time ago and I saved the instructions but unfortunately not the name to give credit to it. Anyways here it is:

To get the suction screen out from the top:

If you decide to tackle this job, there is quite alot of stuff you must remove in order to get to the shuttle and pump plate. Besides the obvious stuff, majors are the steering valve, numerous lines, brake linkage, throttle linkages, floor boards, shuttle pedal, valve cover and rocker assembly in order to remove the fuel tank as the pump is located directly under it. I also ended up cutting off the rear tank mount studs about an inch from the tank to ease tank removal. Once the tank was out, I removed all the mounting studs and went back with bolts. I would also recommend tearing the shuttle valve down for inspection and re-sealing it while the spools are out. Also be sure to check your rocker assembly for wear and adjustment. When going back with it, there is a drilled tower bolt that acts as an oiler bolt to keep the assembly lubed. On early model B's, this bolt must thread in the middle tower hole. On later model B's like mine, this bolt must thread in the rear hole. You will need to check your serial number to detirmine if your B is early or late. Regarding the shuttle valve, BE SURE to make a note where the detent ball and spring are under the valve while you are removing it. This detent ball and spring are located toward the front under the forward/reverse spool and can easily fall into the torque converter case while removing the valve. You will see the detent notches at teardown. I have since finished the job and the machine has plenty of trans pressure now and pulls strong once again in any gear. Good luck

The credit goes to a member with the username Super L. You can read the entire thread here ; https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?19055-Case-580B-shuttle-pump

 

[trailer king]

I had a similar problem with a used 580b many, many moons ago. I took the top off the trans and it looked ok so I reached down into the trans fluid to feel the bottom of the trans thinking there may have been broken teeth. There wasn't but what I found was that the pickup tube had fallen off. The simple fix was to put it back on but what I should have done was somehow secure it instead of simply tapping it back in place. These simple fixes always seem to come back to haunt me, this was no exception.

I thought there was no suction tube on a mechanical shuttle for the 580 B ck

 

[trailer king]

I thought there was not a suction tube on a case 580b ck mechanical shuttle! Only the power shuttle. Is this true.
Also is there a was to replace the clutch on the mechanical shuttle with out splitting the tractor.

 

[DavePat]

With the help of this thread, a buddy of mine (cert welder, cowboy, jerry rigger of everything, great mechanic) just tore into the shuttle to find the suction screen.... found it, and it was super clogged with RTV and sluge. Beats splitting the tractor. He's going to weld a 2" pipe nipple back on and put a cap on it for inspection purposes. And hes going to weld back the stuff he cut off to seal it back up. I'll post pics after my phone charges. Looks crazy as he cut it out, but he's just going to weld it back up. Im so happy that we found it plugged up... Didn't want to do this for nothing.

 

[DavePat]

 

[DavePat]

Thats a pick of the suck screen... it was clogged up with red RTV junk and sludge.

 

[stinky64]

That's a good shot of suction screen for anyone attempting this in the future, methods a little extreme, but was probably a I'LL FIX THIS MOTHER****** moment. Been there, but Dude was serious.