my 1989 580k wiring nightmare

[rkride]

trying to get all my lights working , does anyone know what the amber lights work in conjuntion with

 

[dannyboy950]

Not shure what the factory meant them to be. Have seen them used as turn signals and as action/running lites. [Warning when machine is running/moveing]

 

[nitro]

when i bought mine none of the lights worked, for that matter nothing electrical worked . first i changed all the bulbs and then i ran a ground cable (12 gauge) from the battery to the cab ground thats to the left of the fusebox and then my dash and all the lights started to come around . i also ran a ground wire (00 gauge) from the battery to the block
good luck!!! i hate electrical gremlins....

 

[sheepfoot]

parts page show red stop and tail, amber turn and flasher.

 

[rkride]

Dannyboy950, Nitro,
Thanks for replying! Hey that was my wife posting seeing how frustrated I was becoming and trying to help me figure the elec. out. I have 2 lite switches' One on the front consol left of steering wheel that functions work lites, 2 outside front & 2 outside rear. The 2nd switch is at side consol that functions 2 middle front {flood** and 2 middle rear {flood**. What I dont know is when I turn front switch to 1st position , the front 2 work lites come on, of course they do! What Im trying to figure out is do the amber lites front & rear and/or the rear red Brake lite come on at the same time? Also thank you sheepfoot for your previous help.
Thanks Much
Paul

 

[sheepfoot]

rkride , does your machine have the fuse block on the engine close to the starter ? also looking at the fuse panel next to seat, left hand row down, #2 standard lights,#3 stop lamps,turn signal,flasher,horn, the red tail light comes on when you turn the lite switch on.

 

[melben]

When the LH turn signals are on the opposite ambers will be on solid while the LH blinks and Vice Versa. When the 4 ways are on all ambers will blink together. There is no interaction with the red running lites/ stoplites. On occasion I have had internal harness problems and very often the harness plugs over the rear axle will get greenish corrosion on the pins and eat off pins in the molded plugs. The only reasonable fix is to wire around the problem plugs as replacing is unreasonably expensive and major work. I just wire around the bad plugs or if I'm losing continuity within a harness I add a new wire, it's so much cheaper than opening harnesses looking for a break. Mel

 

[sheepfoot]

Looking at the elect schematic for the 580k, with a rops, when the two front outside head lamps come on the pink wire only feeds the rear two red clearance lights also, if the machine has a cab, when the outside front head lights come on it also feeds two amber lights on the front aswell as the two rear red clearance lights, the turn and flasher are differant runs aswell as stop lamps.

 

[rkride]

Sheepfoot,Melben;
No fuseblock by starter just at right side consol. Yes, when I turn the front work lite switch on {left of steering wheel** to first position, 2 outside front lites, 2 front amber and 2 rear red come on. {pink wire**. When switchis turned to 2nd position {Blu/white wire** everything comes on as I previously stated plus 2 rear outside lites. Whats really happening is the pink & blu/white wires are heating up considerbaly coming out of the front switch. I took front switch out of circuit and just using jumper leads. It doesn't heat up on hot {power** side and doesn't blow 25 amp fuse. What do u think?
Thanks much
Paul

 

[melben]

Others may have to help me out on this one but it sounds like all is well in 1 switch position but my thought was that the reds dropped out when the rear floods came on in 2 position. I have never paid that much attention to tell the truth. Obviously the fuse is overloaded considering the heating of the wire. The schematic should show clearly if the switch switches out the red lites in work mode. Mel

 

[rkride]

Melben,
what part of pa are u located? I western pa. thats why I took switch out of circuit to do independent testing on leads going out of switch. They both heat up indepently of each other. when I start to take load off , one lite at a time .Its not as bad. Thank much
Paul

 

[melben]

NC Pa. near Williamsport. Just 8 Mi. East of RTE 15. C. H. Waltz Sons Inc. is our dealership where I am employed, hope someone comes on with a bit better grasp of the light positions. Mel

 

[sheepfoot]

rkride, just got home it's been a 555e night but, once again i am looking at the schematic, it shows two switches the first only control the outside lights like stated and runs off the red wire (hot) from the 10 amp fuse, left block 3rd down, controls current both the pink and the dk blue/white from that switch, the second switch auxiliary flood /lamps is controled from middle fuse block, top 20 amp fuse, red/white wire two that switch, then dark blue to front center and dark blue/orange to rear, you may have to remove the dash and check for spliced in wires/melted wires around the rear of fuse blocks ect. this schematic only shows it works with both switches not just one

 

[rkride]

sheeofoot,
In reading over your last post you indicated that my front switch runs thru the 10 amp fuse {labeled stop flasher turn signals** to provide power for pink wire {front** blue/white {rear**. Whats happening I was pulling the 25 amp fuse to interupt power for the front switch circuit, which is not correct. The red/blk - Red wires on the load side were swapped. I reswapped wire and now when I pull 10 amp fuse it works proper.There ia alot of melt on the 25 amp fuse {labeled standard lights**, but functions. However when I put all the load to that circuit ** 10 amp fuse ** it blows instantly. What other areas of the circuit should I look at for short,current loss, etc ? I did not completely understand your last sentence from the last reply u sent me. Could u please explain a little more! Been trying to use a GTC ff310 fault finder if your familiar with it. Just completely frustrated with this simple task.
Thanks Much
Paul

 

[sheepfoot]

Well i see what you mean, looked back at the pick in the book for the fuse panel, then again to the schematic,it shows like i said with the 10 amp goes to the first switch, 2nd switch as stated from the 20 amp fuse. The 25 amp runs a red/black off it and goes to the flasher/stop lamp switch/flasher switch/horn/horn switch/horn mag switch, on and on. I have another newer k s/m that i loaned out, i will have it back in the morning and look at it's schematic also. can you tone from the left side of the 10 amp fuse holder with the fuse out to the red wire at your first switch? can you tone the left side fuse 20 amp with the fuse out to the red/white wire at switch # 2 ?, and with the 25 amp fuse out can you tone either the red or the red/white on either switch ?,

 

[rkride]

Sheepfoot
Yes, I just purchased the fault finder and trying to familirize myself with it. Thats a lesson in itself. I did sweep the 10amp from left of fuse block to switch. Looks like I have short or open near harness connector by power shuttle, so the reciever indicates. Decided to disconnect red and red/org out of fuse block. Hooked up red/org w/fuse and added 10ga juper wire to behind switch area to pink wire first. The load side still gets hot not the hot [current] side and the same for blu/wht. I inserted the transmitter in the 25amp it indicated I had no short. On the other hand when I did 20amp it indicated a short. I dont know if Im understanding the fault finder?
Thanks Much
Paul

 

[awbrock]

Can anyone help with an explaination of the fuseblock on a 580K... Best I can tell it is a Phase III. One stick for the front loader bucket; two sticks for the backhoe and one each for the outriggers. Side console has the 4 speed gear slector. The fuse block has lots of empty holes and a couple with fuses but melted and burnt contacts. I'm getting 12 volts on all but one of the fuse holders... something is pulling it down to 10.2volts. Both light switches on the front console will not turn (Rusted... I guess) I have some sort of pull or push switch overhead on the right side (Over the side console.... maybe the either button????) it is stuck as well... the fuse block cover is missing... The buttons on the gear shifter and the loader stick don't seem to work... I think they disengage the shutle shift.... but not sure. I usually let the machine idle down hold the break then switch directions.

HELP!!

 

[alrman]

Can anyone help with an explaination of the fuseblock on a 580K... Best I can tell it is a Phase III. One stick for the front loader bucket; two sticks for the backhoe and one each for the outriggers. Side console has the 4 speed gear slector. The fuse block has lots of empty holes and a couple with fuses but melted and burnt contacts. I'm getting 12 volts on all but one of the fuse holders... something is pulling it down to 10.2volts. Both light switches on the front console will not turn (Rusted... I guess) I have some sort of pull or push switch overhead on the right side (Over the side console.... maybe the either button????) it is stuck as well... the fuse block cover is missing... The buttons on the gear shifter and the loader stick don't seem to work... I think they disengage the shutle shift.... but not sure. I usually let the machine idle down hold the break then switch directions.

HELP!!

Welcome awbrock!
Here's a pic of the decal for a 580K fuse box.
If the 4 speed shift comes out of side console it is a phase 3.
The push/pull switch above your head is anyone's guess..... - rotating beacon??
The buttons on the loader lever & gearshift are indeed the trans cut-outs.
Hope this helps - anything else, just ask

 

[awbrock]

Thank you very much!!!!