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Multiple Event codes on 299d2

Nige

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Before I get into answering your last question it seems a good idea to explain the difference between Diagnostic Codes and Events.

A Diagnostic Code is generated when an electronic component (e.g. a sensor), the wiring associated with it, or the ECM to which it reports has some type of fault that prevents the values of the measured parameter being correctly transmitted to or received by the ECM in question. On your screen this will appear as 190-0 or 168-3.

An Event occurs when the electronics are working fine but the value of a measured parameter goes outside the limits programmed into the software of the ECM to which it reports. On your screen Events are always preceeded by the letter "E", for example E875-2. Considering electrical system voltage there are three separate Events (Level 1, 2, & 3) associated with it: -

E875-1. Activates when the engine is Not running and battery voltage is < 9 VDC for 15 seconds. Deactivates when battery voltage is > 10 VDC for 2 seconds.
Also Activates when the engine is running and battery voltage is < 12.25 VDC for 30 seconds.
Deactivates when battery voltage is > 13.0 VDC for 2 seconds.
Action - If the level 1 event remains active for more than 5 minutes or is repeatedly activated, shutdown operation at the earliest opportunity.

E875-2. Activates when the engine is running and battery voltage is < 12.0 VDC for 30 seconds.
Deactivates when battery voltage is > 12.25 VDC for 2 seconds.
Action - If the level 2 event remains active for more than 5 minutes or is repeatedly activated, shutdown operation at the earliest opportunity.

E875-3. Activates when the engine has been running for at least 1 minute and battery voltage is < 11.5 VDC for 10 seconds.
Deactivates when battery voltage is > 11.75 VDC for 2 seconds.
Action - Immediate Safe Shutdown Required.
 
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Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
It was momentary as I was trying to get the machine back to the barn.
Can you remember exactly what the message said.?
What are 168-3 and 190-0?
168-3 is system voltage failed high.
190-0 is the engine speed sensor failed high.

The issue with Diagnostic Codes is that the troubleshooting procedures for them can only be applied when the Code is Active. Your Codes appear to be Logged which means they were Active once but are not Active at this time.

There should be 4 different sub-menu screens for Diagnostic Codes & Events, as follows: -
Active Diagnostic Codes, Logged Diagnostic Codes, Active Events, & Logged Events. Can you get into all 4, even if one or more of them contains no information.?
 

ColdBlackWind

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May 26, 2023
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Trigonia, Tn.
Nige I have several screenshots of the cab display. I scrolled through Events and sub menus. Also Diagnostics and sub menus. Let me know if I should post them up in this thread or go to PM.

I also ohmed out the resistor with it plugged into the harness. Unplugged it read 120. Plugged in it reads 60. I used spoons and checked continuity from spoon to pin to make sure I was reading across the resistor. The pic on the left just shows using deutsch pins to access the female terminals in the plug to check continuity.



60924457-D43E-4195-B167-6B89B408E2F3.jpeg4EB7C011-7719-4EB5-B07C-C64ED63A43F3.jpeg
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
I also ohmed out the resistor with it plugged into the harness. Unplugged it read 120. Plugged in it reads 60. I used spoons and checked continuity from spoon to pin to make sure I was reading across the resistor.
That is correct because there is another 120 ohm resistor in a not-so-accessible location and so with the two of them in parallel you should get a reading of 60 ohms. See here - https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/parallel-resistance-calculator/

I have several screenshots of the cab display. I scrolled through Events and sub menus. Also Diagnostics and sub menus. Let me know if I should post them up in this thread
No you're fine. So long as you have the complete list of the Logged and Active screens no more is needed. If I can find the photos I'll post something that I recall of mixed Codes/Events on the same screen, so having only two sub-menus would be logical.
 

ColdBlackWind

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Trigonia, Tn.
Those overlap a bit. Tried to get all of them in. They are in order of occurrence. I have replaced drive speed sensor, lift pump, alternator and fully serviced machine since I acquired it.
 

Nige

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Messages
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So here's the list. As discussed earlier -1, -2, & -3 are Levels 1, 2, & 3 of whatever Event.

Events
E232 - Water-in-fuel sensor - located in secondary fuel filter.
E391 - Inlet air restriction (air filter blocked).
E875 - Electrical System Voltage.

Diagnostic Codes
350-3 - Lift Position Sensor voltage above normal.
168-3 - system voltage failed high.
190-0 - engine over-speed.
723-2 & -8 - Engine speed/timing sensor #2 Abnormal frequency (-2), erratic/incorrect data (-8)
1239-1 - Fuel rail pressure low (least severe)
523603-15 - Engine coolant temperature high (least severe)
190-2 - Engine speed sensor. Abnormal frequency pulse width or period.
350-3, -4, & -8 - Lift Position sensor. Voltage above normal (-3), below normal (-4), erratic/incorrect data (-8)
2685-8 - LH Motor Speed Sensor #1 erratic/incorrect data
2687-2 & -8 - RH Motor Speed Sensor #1. Abnormal frequency (-2), erratic/incorrect data (-8)
2688-2 - RH Motor Speed Sensor #2. Abnormal frequency.

The Diagnostic Code in bold is the only one that is Active at this time. All the others are historical.
without connecting ET and doing a full download there is no way of telling when any of those Logged DC's were actually generated.
 

ColdBlackWind

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I am trying to figure out my next step to get back running. The Engine speed alert was the first. Engine position next. Those keep me from working. When it locks up it’s ugly. The lift position is intermittent. I guess I am thinking replace resistor and the engine position sensor. Since it is common to cam position sensor that would give me some wiggle room to swap.

All events have been taken care of with maintenance and repairs.

The drive speed sensor issue was in fact a bad rh drive sensor that I replaced.
 
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Nige

Senior Member
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Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,588
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
I am trying to figure out my next step to get back running. The Engine speed alert was the first. Engine position next. Those keep me from working. When it locks up it’s ugly. The lift position is intermittent. I guess I am thinking replace resistor and the engine position sensor. Since it is common to cam position sensor that would give me some wiggle room to swap.
Based on HEF experience the wiring harness would be my first thought. Have you tried any “pull tests” on it with the engine running.?
 

ColdBlackWind

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Joined
May 26, 2023
Messages
135
Location
Trigonia, Tn.
No sir. Around resistor and down to the sensors? Wiggle and tug?? I sure hate to have the Cat man out to the farm. Ugh.

Looks like the engine harness is $1160. Ouch.
 
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