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Mini Ex Vs Biger Ex

nzpatch

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2008
Messages
116
Location
new zealand
i have a 5ton cat and a 12ton cat. the 5ton digger has a .16m3 digging bucket (i think it is ) and the 12toner a .66 so the bigger digger will do more than 2times a 5toner. you dont normaly get a 5ton digger for bulk digging ,they shine in tidy work,tight areas,small jobs etc.
my 305ccr dose more hrs per year than my 311cu every year for the past 6 years.
 

mike69440

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2007
Messages
65
Location
New Hampshire
Occupation
Engineer
I have a PC75 (18,000 lbs) with an offset boom and zero turn radius house, blade and Thumb. It can carry a 5000-6000 Lb Rock resting precariously on the blade, and place a 2 tone rock in a wall under the right conditions, but it is best handling 2000 lbs and under. I’ve dented up the house when rocks slipped.

Stumps are all different. I struggle with a 6" oak in rocky ground or rooted amongst other trees, have pulled 12”-16” pines a birches right out of the ground with a few minutes of work and yanked 24” pines with root balls the size of a small car working the machine very hard for an hour or so. Every time I tackle something like that I swear it will be the last one. That being said, a sub 10 tonne excavator main work should not be stumping, digging full basements, or filling trucks.

I did dig my two ponds ( about +1000 yards) I would say my machine could dig fast enough to keep a 2 yd loader busy moving the spoil pile.
 

FarmerAlex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
236
Location
Australia
Occupation
Engineer (AT UNI), Heavy equipment owner/ operator
Going to have a look at a 2.5 ton machine, its a Kubota KX 024 with a cab and such, will fit on my 12 ft tandem trailer. With a thum on it, it will be a good size. Not too big and not too small. So going by what has been said i should be able to move around 25 cubic yards per hour. Does anyone have experience when working with machines of this size, is it there benefit in deep ripping the ground before digging??? Does the time spent ripping get made up by using a bigger bucket in shifting the spoils?

Cheers
Alex
 

FarmerAlex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
236
Location
Australia
Occupation
Engineer (AT UNI), Heavy equipment owner/ operator
OK gents i owe you all an apology, we had a Mini ex come and do some work for us, was a 1.5 tonner. Never have i seen such a toy in my life. The guy was digging a drain near some of our bigger trees (i.e 48 inches across) well it took time 7.5 hours of work to dig a drain 80m long. The machine was like a rocking horse, relief valves going constantly and just sliding all over the place. To his credit the guy managed to break up some 6 inch roots and pull chunks out. So i have well and truly learnt that a 10ton machine would be minimum for digging ditches and not to be shaken to pieces.

Can anyone suggest specific machines that are good for this type of work?? I've been told zero swing isn't as good for digging as the counter weight isn't far enough back??? Any suggestions on the bigger machines please feel free.

Cheers alex
 

tootalltimmy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
397
Location
Okanagan Falls B.C. Canada
My Case 135 (13.5 tonne) is able to dig out the stumps. It is a zero swing. I can't compare it to a regular counterweight machine as I don't have enough experience on one. I have loaded trucks with a EX350 Hitachi and it was tippy with a full bucket. You just work within the machine's capacity.

I think you need to explore what machines will have good parts and service in your area. That is very important.
A fellow bought a $15k older Komatsu. Final drive went. They found a used one in Texas. That's a long way from here. The cost of his machine quickly doubled.
 

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stumpjumper83

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
1,979
Location
Port Allegany, pa
Occupation
Movin dirt
Haven't played with 48" trees, dug utilities thru a section off woods with 24" hard and soft wood not 10' from the ditch line though. I was able to maintain 125' per hr. with a 6t+ takeuchi tb 53fr, digging 36" deep.

For residential property improvement work, Its about perfect. I think you should go rent some different machines and see what size your lookin for. If you get above 4.5 ton your going to need a truck larger than a pickup to move it around, but that gets you above what harry homeowner can rent usually.

Zero tail is very nice to have with the smaller machines, it lets you work in confined area better. Speaking from my experience, you will end up needing it once a month or more. Get a hydraulic thumb, you will thanks me later.
 

FarmerAlex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
236
Location
Australia
Occupation
Engineer (AT UNI), Heavy equipment owner/ operator
Gday all again, i was talking to a local contractor the other day, he has a 1.5 ton machine and he says he does house site cuts with it!!!! On rare occasions as he has so much other work. But i could not believe that at 91 per hour it could be affordable for people. Granted he is extremely experienced in all heavy equipment, and does some of the best work i have seen, for the size of machine he has.
The machine consumes 20L per day (10 hrs), good proffits there i think :) .

Just food for thought

cheers
Alex
 

christiansheare

New Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
2
Location
Missouri
This thread has been really helpful to me, thank you.

I need your advice. Anyone who is reading this.
I am not an excavator operator, but may be soon, so I really know very little about all this.

I have the opportunity to buy a 1980 poclain CX75 (or equivalent). It is about 9 tons and has a 24 inch bucket. It has recently been serviced, with over $5000 going into Engine Repairs, and apparently it is running "perfect".

Here are the tasks I am hoping to achieve with it. I will try to be specific, and I would love to hear from you if you think that I can do it or not.
Dig a pond about 200cubic yards. this land has lots of stumps in it with max size of 25 inches. Most are under 20. they are oak and hickory, and in a thick clay soil with NO rocks. (NE missouri).
Put in a road, which will be built through a forested area, on pretty hilly terrain (It is about 1/4 of a mile long, and I will need to put in three culverts).
Dredging out an existing pond. Just reaching as far as I can and putting the sludge to the side.

So, I guess it is two questions. Are those things possible with this mid size machine? And second, can I, as a rookie, with no experience (I have about 3 hours logged!) do this work? I am a fast learner and pretty smart about strategizing, so I think I can learn the machines? The process of digging the pond is not a problem. I have worked with excavator drivers on the digging of three ponds/dams, and know the process. It is really just the skill of actually doing it I am wondering about.

Also, does $9,000 sound like an exceptional deal for this excavator. It is an old-timer that listed it in a local classified ads paper. Just so you know, I realize that a newer and bigger excavator would be better, but I cannot really afford to spend more money that this. I am hoping to buy it, use it, and sell it, and thus save money on these projects. I have a lot more time than money! (Do you think being able to sell and excavator like this will be any problem?)

Thanks so much for your help.
 

tootalltimmy

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
397
Location
Okanagan Falls B.C. Canada
Are you able to do repairs yourself? Are replacement parts available?
You could easily have a $9000 boat anchor if something breaks. Those stumps in clay will be a workout for sure.
 

DGODGR

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2009
Messages
1,064
Location
S/W CO
I must admit that I don't know what size the CX 75 is, or much else for that matter, so it is hard to answer your question. If it holds up I bet you could do what you are asking of it. 200 cybic yards is not much. Stumps can be tough for a little machine. I recommend ripping up the roots and pushing the tree down (then cut it up) so the weight of the tree helps pull the stump. I am suspicious of a machine that has had 50-60% of it's total worth put in it for repairs. It does not make sense. The machine would have been scrapped instead of repaired. I don't know about parts or any support. I just googled 1980 Poclain cx 75 and ALL hits were in a foreign language. Be careful.
 

pp13bnos

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
354
Location
Oregon
I bought my ex120-5 without even operating a excavator before. I did however have someone who was competent check the machine over before I bought it...but anyways, I don't regret it one bit. Within a couple hours of seat time, you'll get the hang of it.

If I where you, I'd try to buy a newer machine, and as big as you can haul. Just my 02.
 

FarmerAlex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
236
Location
Australia
Occupation
Engineer (AT UNI), Heavy equipment owner/ operator
Given all the electronics on machines now and to a lesser extent the older 90's based machines are people keeping well clear of these machines due to all the electrical faults? Or possible faults in the future...
 

Hendrik

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Messages
1,232
Location
Adelaide South Australia
This thread has been really helpful to me, thank you.

I need your advice. Anyone who is reading this.
I am not an excavator operator, but may be soon, so I really know very little about all this.
Yeah as tootalltimmy said, nothing more expensive than a cheap excavator.
Far as the other question go, if you are handy with using machines you should get the hang of using an excavator. I dig out stumps that size with my 1.6 tonne excavator, piece of pi....pie if you can get at different angles to the stump and dig around it, when you can only get at the so and so from one side it makes life that much more interesting. However in hard clay you will want nice sharp tiger teeth, which also come in handy for ripping roots to shreds.
Working on a slope is always a danger, there you really want to think and plan, does this machine have a certified ROPS? If it has there should be a tag on the structure.
Dredging, you want to make sure not to go past the point of not return, if you do get into a situation where the machine is stuck you can use the arm to help pull, pushing with the arm is not such a good idea as it will tend to lift the front of the machine and push the back in. You also gotta know when to stop and get a tow, sometimes it's a lot easier to get a tow early rather than try and dig your way out but end up further down, requiring a bigger tow machine.
9K for a ex sounds good if it is a looked after machine, do you know someone with ex experience that can help you look the machine over? Try and have a look at the receipt for work done on the machine.
 

christiansheare

New Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
2
Location
Missouri
Thanks for all your comments.

My plan is to contact a guy that has been a heavy machinery mechanic for at least 20 years and hire him to come with me to see the machine. I would like to have him get in there and look at the engine, and even give it a test dig, and see what he thinks.

In terms of parts, I have no idea. Could any of you help me out here? Would it be difficult to find replacement parts for a 1980 Poclain Excavator? (I am imagining so, but don't know.)

The deal with 50-60% of the machine value being spent on repairs is this. The current owner bought the machine in a huge auction from a company that was going out of business, along with a bunch of other big machines that he uses for his rock quarry. He is selling it right on, without using it, but says that the previous owner just put $5000 into the engine. He got it at a very cheap price, and is happy to pass it along.

I am hoping that I can put minimal hours on it, complete my jobs, and sell it on for about the same price (before it breaks). Am I taking too big a risk?

Thanks
 
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