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Magnum w/ JD 6068 - warning light - code 1180 inlet air temp?

03hdrk

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Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
N TX
I have the problem noted in the title. Air flow is good. More than one of these generators doing this - this summer, but not last summer.
Not to ask "leading questions", but where is this temp sensor that the inlet air temp on the controller shows 145F when I catch the code. Is it the sensor in the tube between the filter and turbo - I thought that one would be a MAF sensor.

Any input is appreciated. I just found this forum, so I will try to become an active member since this is my living now.
 

partsandservice

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
846
Location
Georgia
Yes the inlet air temp,sensor is in the pipe between the turbo and filter. The times I encountered this code it was the connection in the plug. Check continuity by piercing the wires behind the plug and measuring at terminals.
 

03hdrk

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Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
N TX
Got this problem solved - not enough air flow in front of the radiator. Engineering issue from the factory. Took the front of the enclosure off and problem solved. There is more too it than that, but that is the problem. It is hot enough here to cause the code. Cleaning the intercooler helped, but did not solve the problem. I can give more details if needed.
 

03hdrk

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Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
N TX
Well maybe the engineers did not totally screw up - I had a few small leaks in the radiator - took it to the shop - they call and say the radiator is probably 80% plugged when you let gravity flow water from one end to the other. That explains why it made it this long. We have had all of the Magnum 150's plug and many of the 100's - they were visibly plugged when you look in the radiator. Normal occurs around 5000 hours. As far as I know Magnum has not acknowledged anything. Whatever the white build up is - we have not found anything to dissolve it - so we have to order a new one from Magnum - but they only sell them with the intercooler - so it is always around $2000 plus truck frt. My radiator guy has seen this before in other manufactures - he believes it is a stop leak that the factory puts in to eliminate small or reoccurring problem - by the time it cause the customer a problem the warranty is over.

If I don't watch it - I will climb on my soap box, so I will stop here - for now.
 

partsandservice

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
846
Location
Georgia
Code 1180, calculated VGT turbo inlet temperature. That is the sensor between the air filter and turbo. http://sdiesel.com. Select catalog section , there is a pdf there that list all the Murphy codes. Tried to link you directly to the pdf but could not get it to work. Anyway I am assuming that radiator is aluminum and that scale is likely from lack of servicing the coolant. That same scale is probably in the engine oil collier as well, I would take of that out of caution if nothing else. You can get a code reader for these engines I think it is called Pocket Fleet. The Service Advisor IMO would be a waste of money unless you plan to get into ECM flashing and such. You would be better off, IMO buying the engine manual on cd. The Service Advisor will have to be periodically updated. More $$$.
 
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03hdrk

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Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
N TX
Thanks partsandservice. I will look into the reader. Regarding the coolant - most of the units are around 2yrs old. It is my understanding that some of the 155kVA starting plugging at about 4000 hrs last year. These 235's started with the 1180 code this summer. I know there is no coolant maintenance program here. All of the plugging is with the factory green antifreeze. When I first saw that the coolant was green, I told them that we should change it to red with the SCA's in it. Then, as started on the first unit, I tested the coolant with a Baldwin Filter test kit. It uses the paper strips with 3 color changing indicators on it. It showed to be good - according to Baldwin info and tests strips. So, we did not worry about it. Then as 155's started overheating, and the first visible plugging in the radiator appeared, one of our locations started replacing all coolant in the new Magnum's 100kVA and above. As far as I know, none of those have had a problem.
Are you saying that normal degradation of the coolant can cause this in aluminum radiator?

Thanks again
 

partsandservice

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
846
Location
Georgia
No scientific method to it, but i often run up on this whitish scale in aluminum radiators and intakes, and that usually co-insides with the coolant degradation. I believe the problem is with electrolysis and has less to do with the parameters monitored with the test strips. This coolant should also be checked with a volt meter. Low or no silicate anti freeze should be used in all modern engines IMO.
 

cutting edge

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Mar 27, 2010
Messages
575
Location
upper canuckistan
for what its worth,codes llike this are usually caused by leaks in the charged air side of the intake...super common on bunchers and dozers. that temperature is a calculated value.
 

03hdrk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
N TX
partandservice - I thought that electrolysis would show as black residue more that white build up. From what we (me and the radiator guy) have seen so far, it looks like the electrolysis is not a problem, just plugging of the tubes. Although I have not cut the tanks off yet to get a look down the tubes. Once the tanks are off, we'll be able to see more.
Not wanting to be contrary, just putting my experience and thoughts out there.

Cutting edge - What is meant by "calculated" in this context? Is there not a sensor giving the ECM a temperature at a specific location?

Thanks to both of you.
 

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
If you have no coolant maintenance programme then "conventional" antifreeze with SCA is really not for you. It's a quite maintenance-intensive coolant that you have to keep on top of the condition by adding SCA at regular intervals. In contrast Extended Life Coolant is basically "fit & forget" - in its simplest form you simply change it every 6000 hours or so like you would an oil. You can go more fancy but in your situation it's probably not going to work

If you fancy a change from green antifreeze with SCA to the red ELC be careful if you have any aluminium in the circuit such as a radiator or aftercooler core. There is a chance of leaching occuring, if it happens you'll generally (but not always) notice an ammonia smell in the coolant. There are inhibitors on the market that can be added to ELC to prevent this occuring, these need adding in the correct proportion when you do the first fill of ELC.

You'll have to do a fairly extensive internal cleaning of the system when/if you change over to ELC.
Based on my experiences with premixed ELC over the past 20 years I wouldn't consider using anything else TBH.
 

partsandservice

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
846
Location
Georgia
03hdrk, i dont take it as contrary. Your situation is there and absolutely could have nothing to do with what i am typing . Discussion often leads to a solution. I am only going on my experience, erosion of the aluminum at the same time white scale. Once again no scientific method. When aluminum corrodes it makes a whitish flake not rusty. i often find pitting around egr cooler to intake mounts and around water necks where one side or both are aluminum from electrolysis at the same time I encounter the white scale build up.
 
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