Looking at first backhoe - Case 580B CK

[Phil]

Elast has given you good advice there. I've been lucky with my Case dealer and seal kits are usually correct, at least the parts needed to stop the leak. Try to make a deal with your dealer to bring back any wrong kits. If the piston part of the packing is working the way it should, and looks good, I have put them back in, but thats in my own machine. I'm adding my life experience below.

Lately I've been getting an assortment of gland wipers, back-up rings and o-rings from the local hydraulic hose place, and gland leaks can be fixed for less than $20. Getting the gland loosened off can be difficult, as with the rod bolt. Some people use a big pipe wrench, or a large punch(ugh) and some glands really show it. There is a proper tool for it (good luck). I use a 1" bar and a 6' or 8' pipe, on the rod bolts with the other end still held by the machine if possible. Sometimes a 3/4"drive set will work. I've had to heat the rod end to soften the loctite and always use it on assembly. Outrigger cylinders tend to be the worst glands to remove, watch for bent rods here too that make it difficult. Sometimes it's necessary to use the machines hydraulic system to push a rod out, as in the case of a bent rod or rusted bore, or bent tube. Check your boom cylinder tubes with a straightedge.

Glands need to be checked for the all important oil wiper seal seat. This area inside the gland can get rusty and pitted especially on boom and dipper cylinders with leaky or missing dirt wipers. I have put glands in a lathe to polish, or turn a few thousands off this area with a boring bar, with success. Sand with emery the gland outside groove that the O-ring and back-up ring rest in, and also the tube bore where these seat. Try to start at the front of the machine if you have any leaks there to gain experience. Hope I've helped a bit and don't quote me on any of this. Phil

 

[kirk22]

Elast has given you good advice there. I've been lucky with my Case dealer and seal kits are usually correct, at least the parts needed to stop the leak. Try to make a deal with your dealer to bring back any wrong kits. If the piston part of the packing is working the way it should, and looks good, I have put them back in, but thats in my own machine. I'm adding my life experience below.

Lately I've been getting an assortment of gland wipers, back-up rings and o-rings from the local hydraulic hose place, and gland leaks can be fixed for less than $20. Getting the gland loosened off can be difficult, as with the rod bolt. Some people use a big pipe wrench, or a large punch(ugh) and some glands really show it. There is a proper tool for it (good luck). I use a 1" bar and a 6' or 8' pipe, on the rod bolts with the other end still held by the machine if possible. Sometimes a 3/4"drive set will work. I've had to heat the rod end to soften the loctite and always use it on assembly. Outrigger cylinders tend to be the worst glands to remove, watch for bent rods here too that make it difficult. Sometimes it's necessary to use the machines hydraulic system to push a rod out, as in the case of a bent rod or rusted bore, or bent tube. Check your boom cylinder tubes with a straightedge.

Glands need to be checked for the all important oil wiper seal seat. This area inside the gland can get rusty and pitted especially on boom and dipper cylinders with leaky or missing dirt wipers. I have put glands in a lathe to polish, or turn a few thousands off this area with a boring bar, with success. Sand with emery the gland outside groove that the O-ring and back-up ring rest in, and also the tube bore where these seat. Try to start at the front of the machine if you have any leaks there to gain experience. Hope I've helped a bit and don't quote me on any of this. Phil

Thank you. To say the least I have a lot to learn. I posted some pictures in a new thread.

 

[grizzlygeoff]

hey see that you know your stuff on the case 580 i just recently purchased one and the forward and reverse seems to not be fully engaging. it will go forward with very little power and sometimes reverse but not often again with even less power. If you could steer me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated

 

[Phil]

P.M. me, thanks, Phil

 

[taggert]

Not sure if you bought it yet but I just went thru this and ended up with a beast of a machine. A 710b Deere. I found that the big ones were cheaper than the smaller ones because transporting cost more??? Cost more to fix??? Some other unknown reason!?! Like you, my machine will live at the ranch so transporting isn't an issue other than getting it to the ranch. It may be harder to sell a big one latter but I don't plan to get rid of mine anyhow. Good luck. (Post #3)

Taggert

 

[Doug Overkill]

love my 1971 580ck

My wife bought me a 1971 580ck a few years back and is great. It is much smaller than others I have driven. On my property it is nice to have the smaller footprint when trying to get between tries and clean out the brook.

All the parts have been easy to get, and it has not needed much.

Is there anyone who can help with a hydraulic cylinder question?
I have a leaky stabilizer cylinder (case part # G32589, I think) and am planning to rebuild it. I have done 3 others as they were needed on this tractor and it has been relatively easy.

Tonight I tried to remove the gland from the cylinder and it turned about 90 degrees with a lot of hammering on the "spanner wrench". Then it just stopped. I am wondering if it could be a LEFT HAND thread? I tried to turn it backwards and again it moved about a quarter turn and then stopped.

Any thoughts?

 

[Phil]

Not left thread that I'm aware of. I had a cylinder once that had been hit near the end of the tube with the bucket, or a rock, anyway check for a dent. I know the tube is reinforced with the gland behind it but it was there. In my cylinder it caused alot of drag and I had to heat the end of the tube around the dent to get the gland off. You may have to use heat anyway to get it off. Sometimes a bent rod will put some pressure on the gland and make unscrewing a pain, unless extended or retracted. Hopefully it's not galling but I doubt it they are in oil. I posted a thread here 'tools of mass destruction'...very crude. Phil

 

[Cliff204]

New member needs advice on Case 580B CK

Just purchased a 580B and have a few questions. Hope someone can help me.
Is it okay to replace the rear end fluid with 80W-90 oil?
How do I "store" the backhoe in the "lock" when moving the backhoe.
I've read all the posts I can find regarding the transmission, because I'm experiencing some "sluggish-nish" in my trans. But I'm finding it difficult to locate the "torque" tube and I'm really confused about the fluids in the trans. Is there 2 differant fluids used? What are they? How do you check each one? Where is the fill for them. I can see the big trans fill plug just in front of the shift lever, but what's this torque tube thing????? Got lots more questions but don't want to over burden anyone on my first day.

 

[Doug Overkill]

Hoe lock?

My 580ck does not have a hoe lock. Does your 580b have one? I didn't think those arrived until the 580C's. I just remember to every few minutes reach back and raise the arm back up as mine does sag over time. I have run a 580E that had a pain in the ass pin system that I just never used unless i was doing a mile or more down the road. My ck never leaves the yard.

As far as fluids. I am not the strictest in following the manual. I do not believe my 40 year old tractor tells the difference between todays fluids. For the transmission I use a generic Tractor oil from my local auto parts store. A 5 gallon pail for about $40. I think the stuff I currently have is Coastal 303.

As far as the filling, I found this on another site and had saved it for myself:
-->
The Tourque Converter unit can be filled from the cap ahead of the 4 speed cap. The large 1 1/2 thin nut between the caps is the rear trans which is 90 wt oil. There should be another plug on the next cap front that fills the tc/shuttle housing.

 

[amunderdog]

How do I "store" the backhoe in the "lock" when moving the backhoe.
Boom up. Just as it is nearing the top of its travel move the boom lever slightly to down.
The boom will free travel back in to the lock. Sort of caming over.

 

[Phil]

Cliff,
Welcome to the forum. To add about the boom lock, it's helpful to get the back of the machine up higher, either backing up a hill or putting the outriggers down all the way, when attempting to get it locked. The point at which the boom lever is pushed the other way requires a little practice.

The torque tube connects the engine to the transaxle. It's a big long casting containing the shuttle assembly and converter, or flywheel assembly. It has a fill plug in the shuttle cover, that's the cover just in front of the gearshift cover. Oil for the converter drive models is TCH I believe, and for the transaxle is EP 80-90 GL-4, so yes there a 2 different types of oil used. Phil

 

[Cliff204]

thanks everyone for the advise. I was concerned about the transmission and changed the filter, (in front of radiator) It was old and needed replacing but I didn't see any metal of junk in the filter. I guess it's just how the 580 B's were, sluggish in the transmission department. I bought this 580B CK (ext-hoe) last week and have fixed the minor things that were bothering me. Now, I've noticed that many of the bushings and pins need replacing, and there is a small amount of leaking from some of the rams, other than that I'm wondering if I shouldn't turn around and sell the 580B and try to find a 580SE. So far, with parts and stuff, I have about $4800 tied up in hoe. One final question. Is this the proper way to post a question? Just get on someone else's post and do a "reply"???? I enjoy reading about other 580B's but don't want to hijack anyone's thread.

 

[Phil]

If you can find a buyer and make a profit, I would consider it. Used parts are getting very hard to find, although Case still supports the B quite well. The E was considered the best of the older Case hoes. If she will spin the tires in first and load the front bucket, then your shuttle is probably not slipping. With the toque converter models, the shuttle pump intake screen often gets partially plugged, slowing clutch engagement, and making a very soft shift. There were other problems with the power shuttle, and work on them can be difficult and time consuming. The machine was a little sluggish compared to the later models.

You can't post a new thread until you have 5 posts I believe, so you have to piggyback on someone's thread. No problem, we all were new members once. Phil

 

[ia sodbuster]

new user, question about hydrostatic hoes

apologies for hijacking, been looking for a thread related to hydro
drive hoes to jump in on, and this one seemed like a chance.

I have a question.....

I'm looking for a hydrostatic hoe tractor or large fork lift tractor
that will allow me to install a pto drive and 3 pt hitch on it. If
possible, preferably something with 80 hp or more. I've been
more or less thinking something with case or IH lineage as I
have a neighbor that knows the ag side of these tractors inside
and out. (little or nothing about the construction equip tho)

I've always wanted to tackle a project of building a snowblower
out of either an old hydro drive combine or a hoe with a hydro
drive. Now, after suffering bulging discs two years in a row,
thanks to too much time turning around to watch the blower,
the doctors have decided it's time for me to A. move somewhere
warmer (mama sodbuster likes this idea) or B. hire the work done,
and I'm not willing to do either.

My dad and I reversed an H farmall back in the 60's and I toyed
around with using a IH hydro 100 along those same lines, but the
H project was a permanent switch, and obviously that isn't in the
cards for this deal. I'm hoping something can be done with a hoe
so I wouldn't have to redesign the work station to be reversible.


Appreciate your thoughts/ advice.

Ed

 

[rasman57]

I needed a backhoe for stump pulling and other cleanup work on 40 acres of recreational land in Michigan. What was important to me was the ability to get parts and be able to wrench on it myself if possible.
I found a well cared for OLD 580 CK made in 1969 with a tired gas engine. It has a standard dry clutch and no power shuttle, both welcomed by me due to the simplicity. It has the forward reverse column shifter with the standard 4 speed with Hi/LO.
I worked the old warhorse HARD for a year and finally the engine gave up. The rings were in pieces, so it was well used! Left the 33 hoe and bucket and brought it home early this winter for a restoration of sorts. I was able to complete the project in my garage with a floor jack, regular tools, engine hoist and a friend. The loader frame was take off and apart. The engine separated and professionally rebuilt then reinstalled by me. New brakes, hand built wiring harness, new radiator, new clutch, rebuilt front end and new hoses. I painted the sheet metal and put some new (not correct on either) decals. Finally put a little custom hood ornament on and lit a cigar!
For me the open seat old school easy to work on fit into my plan. It would not be right for everyone.

 

[amyliveshere]

youve done a great job there.i know how difficult it is having just restored a 1963 fordson super dexta tractor
nick.....

 

[bluetick]

New to the forum,have a480e, would like to know how it compares to the 580e as it has many of the same parts(engine ,trans wheels,tires). Also not clear how to lock hoe for travel,thx

 

[alrman]

Welcome to HEF bluetick.
There are many differences with the 480 & 580 hoes. I'll start with what is same though - engines, shuttle, transaxle, control valves for loader & hoe (mounting for loader is more like a 580C)
Differences are chassis, loader frame is lighter; hoe is lighter, only a single boom cyl on 480 compared to 2 on 580;
Not 100% sure on US configerations - here, wheels were smaller; we only saw the 12' booms & mechanical boom locks ( no hyd locks); the 580's were overcentre boom design but I can't be sure if 480's were - too long since I have seen one - not many were ever sold.

 

[mikeshoe]

Rasman57: Love your 'freedom' sticker! Well done!

 

[teberhard]

So when did Case change to the cummins engine? Was that engine better then the 207?