Looking at Case 580L Turbo - Suggestions?

[br2an]

Hi, I have been looking for a good used backhoe to purchase for 3 months now and this just came up. The description I got from the seller was:

"1999 Case 580L turbo
7000 hours, a leaking stabilizer and some rust on one door
pins/bushings not bad, good shape overall
50% tires"
​

I plan to drive out to see it Wednesday (if it hasn't sold already) and would like suggestions as to what I should look for.

I plan to do the following:

Walk around - rust,leaks,hoses,tires etc
Check fluids for contamination
start - check for smoke
check drive/reverse when cold
lift front end - check play in ball joints + steering
check play in hoe
with engine warm, road test (power, brakes, steering)
then dig test (slow cylinders? chattering hydraulics? etc)
shut down and check for leaks again
​

It isn't new so I expect some wear and tear but any small deficiencies are bargaining chip for a better price. Large ones will mean I drive away empty handed.

One question in particular, does this machine have a lot of electronics/solenoids? A computer for engine control? I am leary of electronics on older equipment due to corrosion and the fact it is darn expensive.

Also, how many hours is this engine normally good for? Does the turbo cause problems?

I owned/operated an old 310 Deere for a number of years but have never been around a Case. This will be for light work around the cabin and some small contracts to help pay her keep.


Thanks,
Brian

 

[fpgm04]

Br2an,
I can attempt to answer a few of your questions.
- No engine controller on L series.
- There is a possible optional controller for backhoe if the machine has pilot/joystick backhoe controls. (if equipped, controls only the extendahoe, stabilizers, and auxiliary). I can’t really tell in the picture, but it looks like the machine has a 2 stick mechanical control which would not have any electric controller for it.
- As with any machine, its condition, maintenance history, and age impact future potential. However, the Case L series is seems to generally be considered a good machine by many.

A couple odd things I see in the picture :
- The LH door latch is raised up in an abnormal position and the door looks like it is cocked. May be optical illusion, but perhaps someone was running machine with door open and hit something? There may be something up with the LH step as well, so you might want to take a closer look.
- The backhoe is not folded up over-center in transport position. It kind of makes me wonder if the person who has it does not know what they are doing and therefore may not represent the machine correctly. As you say you have not been around Case machines, you might want to be aware that Case machines fold the hoe up over center which throws some of the hoe’s weight forward to make the machine handle much better in loader/transport mode. However, some people that are not familiar with how to fold up a Case hoe end up leaving them hanging back with load on the hydraulic cylinder (as shown in the picture) and then complain that the hoe will not lock to transport position. (it only takes about 5 seconds to fold a Case hoe over center to transport position and there are probably several past threads on the subject) Please understand there is probably nothing wrong with the hoe, it is just strange that it is not folded up and locked in transport position.

More pictures would help, but generally the Case L is a good machine. Good luck.

 

[br2an]

fpgm04

Thanks for the reply. You are right, it has 2 sticks that I believe are mechanical, same as my old Deere. You can see them in the back pic here.



Do you know if it has solenoids for controlling forward/reverse etc? I prefer mechanical linkages but we can't always have everything our own way.

I never noticed the door but you are right; the bottom is open while the top is closed. It may have hit something moving forward with the door open. I will check the fitting around the glass; glass is one thing that can't be bent.

The hoe not being folded over is something new to me. I searched the forum but no luck yet. I'm sure I'll find something with a bit more time. I will ask the current owner how to lock for transport when I go out for viewing.

Does my check list seem adequate? Anything you might add?

Thanks again,

Brian

 

[fpgm04]

Br2an,
In reply to your questions.

As the machine has 2 wobble stick backhoe control, then no controller on the hoe.

Solenoids are standard industry practice for many many years. Case, Deere, Cat… I am not aware of anyone with mechanical linkages for FNR (forward neutral reverse) anymore. The 580L is no exception, sorry. There are still mechanical linkages for gear shifting (1,2,3,4) on some transmissions, but most all manufacturers offer some form of “optional” electronic shift control, which means solenoids. On Case machines, if the FNR lever does not have the gear selection on the FNR lever (1,2,3,4), then the gears “are shifted” with mechanical linkage. If it does have the gear selection on the FNR handle, then there is also a controller for the transmission as well. As you are looking at a 580L series 2, it is possible that it could have the optional powershift transmission with associated controller. Simply look at how you select gears and you will know which transmission it has.

There are also going to be various solenoids for functions like clutch disconnect that are standard on loader handles by all manufacturers. I afraid you are going to find solenoids on just about any machine you look at. The only variation will be if that solenoid is controlled via a simple switch (like clutch disconnect on the 580L) or via an electronic controller which is more common on newer machines.

Regarding the over center boom lock. It is simply a matter of commanding the boom to come all the way up, then when the boom cylinder reaches full retract, command the boom to extend slightly (when the boom is “still in motion” coming up). This will cause the boom to go over center and lock in transport. The first time you do it, it may surprise you with the motion, and if you do it too fast it will make a loud bang, but no harm done. With a little practice, it will be second nature and the result will be the backhoe will be much more agile due to some of the backhoe weight being put forward and no large counterweights to lug the vehicle down.
As for your list, there are many on this forum with far more knowledge than I. However, since you ask…
• I would add a check for park brake as people tend to want to drive through the park brake for some reason and wear it out prematurely. (not a huge issue, but something to check)
• You might also check for mouse damage on any machine. Mice seem to love to chew on wiring.
• Check the A/C in cab. May not be a big issue to you up North, but I am thinking the L was back in the R12 days, so there could be some added expense in either R12 or conversion if the A/C does not work.
• Check the 4wd operation(both front wheels). As with many designs, I believe it is possible to shear a front shaft on one side and you won’t know about it until you need it. I am not saying Case has an issue, but I would check any 4wd I am looking to buy(truck, tractor, backhoe…) to insure the 4wd fully works.

By the way, it looks like the street side of the stabilizer pad shown in the last picture looks very worn. There should be more rubber exposed if you intend to work on street without leaving damage to the road surface. The rubber can be replaced, but it appears the mounts are damaged on the stabilizer pad that may require additional repair. If you are only doing dirt work, then this is non-issue as you will have the pads flipped to the dirt side.

Gook luck

 

[br2an]

Well, just got back from the viewing.

The good: Case seems to be a really nice solid machine. Hydraulics were VERY strong. Engine started easily (there was still snow on it) and ran strong. Steering seemed tight and drove well. I see where the solenoids are used; the reverser appeared to be switched as well as a button on front bucket control to allow override for lifting. Also the locking boom for transport is a neat idea.

The bad: a lot of rust on the bottom of the doors and cab area. One door was repaired but the other one is missing quite a bit of material. The tires weren't completely worn out but had dry rot along the side walls. I wouldn't feel comfortable taking it outside my yard as is. A couple of worn pins/bushings. One leaking cylinder (stabilizer) and two pitted rods (again the 2 stabilizers) Front wheel bearings had 1/2" play lateral on top of tire (not sure if that is really bad or just normal for usage). If the price were lower and I had a ton more time this summer, it would make a great project. Lots of potential.