Kobelco hydraulic excavators

[12Andrew34]

Hi Guys,
Not sure if I'm doing this right, I'm new ;-)
I'm in Queensland Australia and I've purchased a used SK70SR and I'm wanted to buy a service manual (full workshop manual) and parts manual but I'm not sure of the exact one to cover my machine. Some are listed as SK70SR-1E, what does the -1E mean?
The machine details are as follows;
Kobelco SK70SR (as far as I can tell)
Serial # YT03-05936
Supposed to have been an Australian sold machine (not grey import)
Year model 2004

Any help appreciated Guys.
Regards
Andrew

 

[12Andrew34]

Hi Guys,
It has the offset boom opotion as well, might make a difference?
Any help appreciated Guys.

Regards
Andrew

 

[Bauskac]

Hi this is Chuck from Kalama, WA. I have been having the same issues with my sk60. My display started showing the wrench, I could remove the 5amp controller fuse, re-install and it would work fine until it shut the key off. Now that trick no longer works. I...like you have spent lots of hours inspecting harnesses and plugs, grounds etc... I sent the contoller to a couple of electronic shops and was told by each that it was a faulty "e-prom chip" which is Kobelco proprietary. I finally purchased a new controller...same issue! I have also changed my key switch. Any updates on yours?

 

[grandkobelco]

The wrench symbal on the dash is always bad news for the owner of a older kobelco machine. Before you start changing componets make sure that you have the corect 24v inputs and grounds on both the c1 controller and c2 controller. The c2 controller is the one that controls the cluster gage. You can gently remove the cover and look inside for water damadge or burned circut boards. You can do the same to the dash. There is no good way to test the componets themselvs.

 

[Bauskac]

Kobelco SK60 ~ Wrench on display

Thanks for the reply, I have looked at the circuit boards in both the c-2 controller and the dash display, I don't see anything there that looks faulty. I was suprised that when I plugged in the new controller I bought, I had the same wrench on the display. Since my service manual indicates that when the wrench symbol is displayed, it means the c-2 controller is not functioning properly....what are the chances that the new controller that I purchased is defective too? If I brought the controller into my Kobelco dealership, maybe they can plug it into a machine that is known to funtion to see if my controller works on theirs? Do you know how many different machines that same controller fits?

Thanks.
Chuck

 

[grandkobelco]

If your dealer is realy nice and has a comparable machine they can do this, I have done this for testing. It's not often but the wrench sign can mean a bad dash. Have you checked 24v and ground at the c-2 Also check continiuty between gage and c-2.

 

[largede]

I've just purchased a 1997 Kobelco SK020 with just under 4000 hours on it. It was only ever used to dig graves. Rubber tracks 18 months old, all hydrolics gone though and rebuilt six months ago, all PM done and documented, doesn't leave a spot on the deck underneath. It's a great running machine. My question is, does anyone know anything about it? I haven't been able to find any documentation on the web, not even what it's rated for. There isn't anything on the machine itself in English. Any information on it would be well appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!

 

[Alabama]

Mr.Kobelco, I have a Kobelco
Sticker # 13832
Model # SK25sr-2
S / N PVO9-22655
It's got a Yanmar model - 3TNE74-ENYBB

I would love to have a repair Manuel for it but my question for now, there is an adjustment device of some sort under a small cover plate about half way Down the right side ( sitting on the machine ). Is this some sort of flow control or something else? One more, is there a way to adjust the hyd. Pressure to the track drive motors. The right track seems to have less power than the left.

Thank you for your help.

 

[Bauskac]

If your dealer is realy nice and has a comparable machine they can do this, I have done this for testing. It's not often but the wrench sign can mean a bad dash. Have you checked 24v and ground at the c-2 Also check continiuty between gage and c-2.

Update. I was checking out my wiring a yesterday, and noticed the "clock/buzzer cancel" switch was very hard to operate. I looked at my wiring diagram and saw that that switch is an input to the C-2 controller. I tried unplugging it but it did not help. I left the switch unplugged so I could take it to my dealer to get a new one in a few days. I ran my machine most of the day today,and lo and behold, the C-2 started working!! Not sure if having that switch unplugged is related or not, but after seeing the check wrench display for a coulpe of years it is pretty weird, but it is working now. Maybe tommorrow I will plug the switch back in and see what happens. One other thing, I had more than average time idiling today. What is your take on that?

 

[grandkobelco]

Bauskac

When you say c-2 is working do you mean the dash? Just to be clear they are two diffrent componets. But I'm glad it's working. I would not reinstall the switch but would buy a new one. This a importent switch in the kobelco world by supplying intermitent ground signals to the c-1 and c-2 controllers. I have not personaly seen it cause the wrench symbal but why not?

 

[nighttower]

hello fellow kobelco owners!
sk50ur ser # yj-00846 (mini hoe)
yes... i am aware its a grey market machine (and am SICK of hearing the term)
i have simple questions that seem basic but due to the fact that i am a first time hoe owner (very mechanicaly inclined but trying to be sure to cover the basics of my excavator) i have questions and sadly NO ONE will help me or even talk to me because its "GREY MARKET"..... well guess what... its a kobelco... its put together like every other peice of heavy equipment... so what... it uses metric and bsp instead of sae... thats ok... if runs the same, works the same, and uses the same fluids.... but i digress
a few questions i have are
what weight of hydraulic oil do mini hoes use? (46, 68 not sure)
what do most people use in cycloidal final drives? (recomends 80/90 but have other people had better success with lighter or heavier oil?)
do little yanmars run the same sae 15/40 diesel oil as EVERY other diesel?
can you over grease the slew bearing and crap the seals out??? and how much is enough/too much
track tension for rubber tracks??? called two dealers... one said 2 INCHES .... the other said 3.5 to 4 INCHES (YES im SURE he said INCHES) is that right???
can someone PLEASE help me!?

 

[Pane]

G'day

After having to remove one of my tracks last week due to a stripped output shaft on the drive motor I've discovered that the nose roller is very wobbly. I assume it's got some sort of bearing arrangement in a carrier that's worn out but couldn't get a clear look at what goes on inside there. I see there is a big spring and piston that the grease pushes out to tension the tracks but how is the roller removed to repair what's worn?

Also how often should the oil be changed in the final drives?

Machine is a sk120 mark 5 super.

Cheers

 

[Van Koop]

Update. I was checking out my wiring a yesterday, and noticed the "clock/buzzer cancel" switch was very hard to operate. I looked at my wiring diagram and saw that that switch is an input to the C-2 controller. I tried unplugging it but it did not help. I left the switch unplugged so I could take it to my dealer to get a new one in a few days. I ran my machine most of the day today,and lo and behold, the C-2 started working!! Not sure if having that switch unplugged is related or not, but after seeing the check wrench display for a coulpe of years it is pretty weird, but it is working now. Maybe tommorrow I will plug the switch back in and see what happens. One other thing, I had more than average time idiling today. What is your take on that?

I have had the dreaded wrench symbol for a couple of years now. It would be fine if I ran it everyday, but if it sat for a few days I would turn the key on and get the wrench. Have changed c-2,c1 ignighton switch , new battery's. Had good trouble shooting mechanics look at it. All the voltages and grounds were good. Was talking to a fellow from Oregon who had alot of time around kobelcos and he gave me a few things to check. He said they had one mark 3 machine that would eat c-1 computers and it would act erratic in the hydralics. Long story short they finnally had to fly in a factory engineer from kobelco and it worked fine and they couldn't get it to act up. One day he was running it and it started acting up again (got real fast and smoked and then real slow and jerky)he started touching the fuses. He would push on the fuses and it would run normal. So I started my machine and had check wrench as usual, turned it off pushed with the palm of my hand on the fuses turn the key presto. Everything seams to be working perfectly ever since. I think these fuse blocks have caused alot of grief in an otherwise great machine. I was pulling my hair out cursing this kobelco. I hope this tip saves someone else alot of fraustration and expense.

 

[Van Koop]

Ps I have an extra c-2 controller if you need one. Also a c-1

 

[kp100]

Glad to hear you finally found your problem. Mine has been perfect ever since we changed the circuit board in the main screen. Too bad they couldn't keep all these fixes on file to share with customers when these electronic gremlins show up.
Kevin

 

[drsparke]

sk135srlc-1e arm cylinder moves freely

SK135SRLC-1E
S/N - YH03-02692

When I first start the machine, stretch the arm out to full reach (cylinder fully retracted) and take my hands off the controls, the arm swings quickly back towards the machine (freely, not under hydraulic power). It swings back and forth past vertical until it has lost all its momentum and stays in the vertical position. After the machine has warmed up, the arm still swings back freely but at a MUCH slower speed. I've already had the cylinder repacked/resealed (thought it may have been bypassing internally and it was leaking slightly out of the rod wiper seal so needed repacking anyways). This did not resolve my issue of the arm moving back freely. The machine has a "control pattern quick-change valve" for CAT & Deere controls, the issue remains regardless of the control pattern. Looking through the parts diagrams it looks almost like there are three spool valves associated with the arm cylinder. I'm stuck as to where I should look next for the cause of my issue. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[grandkobelco]

Follow the hyd lines from the arm cyl to the hyd controll valve, where the hyd lines thread into the valve, on top and on bottom of the main controll valve there are port relief valves that can be switched for test purpases. Unthread them and switch them and see if the arm still drifts down.

 

[grandkobelco]

OOPS! I just read my post, lower boom to the ground before removing the valves.

 

[crane_guy44]

Does anybody troubleshoot a stepping motor problem with a 10000 kobelco crane?

 

[Digger33]

HI Itlewade17 - I ahve not been able to find a service manual for my SK030-2 - would you be able to send me a copy - happy to pay - Just have not been able to find one