Jumper Cable Recommendations

[Junkyard]

Not hard to do at all. Perhaps I'll make a video. Have a set sitting around that needs the ends reworked.

Heck I'd build you some, I'm sure somebody else on here would as well. There are ready made sets but usually I can build them cheaper, heavier cable and the length I want.

 

[SMLWinds]

Thanks so much! I would definitely be up for covering costs and some profit to have someone make me a great set. I would love to learn, just don't want to screw something up when I am dealing with that much current and putting my hands on it! I grew up on a small farm and love working with my hands, heavy equipment, etc. but don't have a ton of experience--I try to "know what I do not know" so I can avoid being the stupid guy who hurt himself doing something he was ignorant on. I have never soldered or welded before, although I did get a welder and am getting ready to start learning that skill. I would love to learn all that stuff but just don't know how to do it right now. I now have a skid steer, excavator, D6 dozer, Prentice 2864, and a monster truck so I have most self taught myself (lots of questions, google, YouTube, and books) how to drive big machines and how to haul things, but the process is slow learning since I do not do anything related to heavy equipment, hauling, welding, etc. for a living.

I did find these:
https://www.forneyind.com/products/battery-jumper-cables--2-x-25
which seem to be what you guys are talking about. I assume #2 wire is 2 gauge--not sure why they don't make a 1 gauge set. How much does the wire and clamps cost if you are making your own? I do have a friend who is a great welder, heavy equipment and handy guy who I am certain could make me some if I got him the materials.

I am very appreciative of you guys tolerating my ignorance and helping me learn!

 

[farmerlund]

Rizk National has a 20ft cable that's all copper. $81

 

[DIYDAVE]

If you don't wanna do it yourself, a good rebuild place fer alternators and starters will likely have everything except the connectors, and may not be too expensive, if they use crimp on ends...

Here is what I use fer copper ends, like you use on welders:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-El...HGngRGZ94hRsQXa6_-vuzIFw4LqaJUTYaAqBwEALw_wcB

I think the connector uses set screws, so you don't have to worry about soldering. Just use heat shrink insulation, slide on cable before crimping the ends on... If I can do it, anybody can...

 

[SMLWinds]

I saw that Rizk National had cables for a very affordable price. However, I saw that they are 4 gauge. Is that heavy enough? Is 1 gauge necessary or way overkill?

 

[Junkyard]

The gauge will be a function of length and desired amperage capacity just like welding leads. Within reason they can't be too big. 1 gauge would be sufficient for anything you'd do providing they're not 50' long (even then you'd be ok). I built mine with what I had, 1/0 I believe.

I've got some 4/0 if you want some REAL cables

 

[rmllarue91]

I always think low voltage is hard on a starter so I like to have double available cranking amps and double the conductor. I made a set of 2/0 welding cable copper lugs welded nuts to vise grips and they will flow. can start 3408 or 3406 with two 4ds 20 foot away. the vise grips are a pain will switch them to welding ground clamps someday but they flow... Cat sells a good set but $500 is out of my budget can build for about half. Also have a set of freightprides about $150 work got for boosting 12vs and clamps will only flow so much and keeps them from smoking lol

 

[Birken Vogt]

I saw that Rizk National had cables for a very affordable price. However, I saw that they are 4 gauge. Is that heavy enough? Is 1 gauge necessary or way overkill?

For what you are doing I would use #1 or even 1/0.

 

[Jumbo]

I have a set made from #2 welding cable, with 800A clamps. They are 80" in length. 6 rolls of black plastic tape along the complete length tying them together and they work great. the only thing I would have done different was to have a set of 90 degree clamps on one end. vs. straight on both ends. They are heavy, bu the reach is worth it. It is amazing how fast 80' of jumper cable can be eaten up around equipment. I just crimped lugs on the ends, that makes it easy if I need to lug one end to a battery due to confined space.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Northern Tool has a set ON SALE>> #2, 20ft long CHEAP.. $20.00 !!!

 

[Ronsii]

^^ Yep, CCA wires= Aluminum

They will work just can't get the amps through them like real copper wires... but a whole lot cheaper also

 

[Delmer]

The first rule of jumper cables is the clamps are half the connection, or is it all the connection? copper jaws with a jumper and all soldered ideally.

The second rule is that length increases voltage drop. The gauge and length are proportional, long cables need to be big gauge. 12 or 24 volts don't have much room for voltage drop and still help out any. To cut the voltage drop in half, double the size of the cable, or cut the length in half. That means to keep the voltage drop the same, doubling the length requires doubling the size of the cable (cross section).

The other factor is what do you expect to do with the cables? Start a big engine with dead frozen batteries at zero from 30' away? or start an engine that cranked but didn't start for whatever reason and now cranks too slow because the batteries are ten years old and it's the coldest day of the year, but you have ten minutes to let them charge up? 8 gauge cables will do that if they have decent ends and you can reach it with short cables.

 

[PJ The Kid]

Iffn I were starting over, I would install something like this: httpswww.awdirect.com/lexan-plug-jump-start-set-safe-t-connect-500-amp-clamps-


I have a very similar setup on my work truck. We also use them on our tree trailer with a 12v jib crane to power the crane from the truck batteries.

 

[Queenslander]

If there is absolutely no other option, 8 gauge fencing wire will work, even barbed if you’re really desperate.

 

[Trashman]

I buy welding lead and put a good set of jumper cable clamps on the ends. Works real well. I have a set that is almost 15 years old.

 

[Junkyard]

Here's some cable if'n you're man enough

4/0 load bank cables I repurposed. I've been using them as welding leads, just run a short whip so I'm not dragging that around at a pound a foot!

 

[Ronsii]

Yeah Junkyard, the smaller whip on the ends is a great idea... I've found that even if you run single ought the wire starts to get too heavy for any of the spring ends I have been able to find and usually ends up 'readjusting itself' in a bad way

 

[rmllarue91]

On the subject of jumper cables I would like to make a slight side stop lol
Looking for a large series / parallel switch like on 12v 24v jump boxes so I can install second set of batteries in service truck so I can charge 12v off truck alternator but also isolate them and put them in series for 24v rather than mounting a 24v alternator and having stand alone 24v system. Been jumpstarting lots already this year.

 

[Delmer]

I don't know of a switch, but if you have two batteries already in the service truck, I'd be tempted to hook one up with the forklift style connectors and make up a tap, and a Y so you could manually hook up 24V for jumping. You'd need a 24v alternator or some kind of isolated charger for the second battery to be able to charge a 24V system, either the series/parallel switch, or the Y connector wouldn't charge.

 

[Ronsii]

You could easily hook up a series-to-parallel switch like a lot of old trucks had/have in them for the starters 24 volt system, then instead of a starter the jump wires would get switched in or use andersen connectors to connect an extra 12volt battery in (parallel) and then have a separate plug to use as a series plug for the 24v jump set... just make sure you think out the setup first or you'll get some hot wires