JLG 40F Early Machine Information

[1693TA]

Can you post a couple views of the coil itself?

 

[OFF]

Oh! That's not Racine.

Those are called FPS valves.

 

[1693TA]

Oh! That's not Racine.

Those are called FPS valves.

I didn't know what they were but definitely NOT Racine. I recently found my marbles and was swearing I'd lost them again.....

If'n I can see good clear photos of the coil I'll be able to ascertain whether I can rewind it.

 

[James Gordon]

Oh! That's not Racine.

Those are called FPS valves.

OOPS, I miss led you. Sorry bout that. I'll try and find the old coil and get pics. I think it is at a friends. Didn't throw it away.

 

[James Gordon]

 

[James Gordon]

The valve for the high drive was a Racine valve. I just assumed all the valves were Racine. Assuming will always get you in trouble. Thanks, Jim

 

[1693TA]

The valve for the high drive was a Racine valve. I just assumed all the valves were Racine. Assuming will always get you in trouble. Thanks, Jim

That is a very accurate statement. Are there any identifying marks on that solenoid coil at all?

 

[OFF]

OOPS, I miss led you. Sorry bout that. I'll try and find the old coil and get pics. I think it is at a friends. Didn't throw it away.

I miss led myself you mean! I didn't see a lot of JLG "F" series machines with FPS valves, so my mind is stamped with "all solenoid valves are Racine" and I proceeded accordingly.

The few FPS valve machines I saw were very dependable.......back in the 80's........

do a Google search for "FPS solenoid valves" and you should get some hits. I have no info or part numbers for them in my stash unfortunately

 

[James Gordon]

That is a very accurate statement. Are there any identifying marks on that solenoid coil at all?

No, not a one.

 

[James Gordon]

I miss led myself you mean! I didn't see a lot of JLG "F" series machines with FPS valves, so my mind is stamped with "all solenoid valves are Racine" and I proceeded accordingly.

The few FPS valve machines I saw were very dependable.......back in the 80's........

do a Google search for "FPS solenoid valves" and you should get some hits. I have no info or part numbers for them in my stash unfortunately

I'll do that. Thanks

 

[OFF]

And for future reference, the correct Racine part number for the 12 Volt coil used on JLG Racine solenoid valves is #493419

 

[1693TA]

Well I was hoping with using OFF's money and my good looks, we'd have you up and running but then I got to thinking grandpa always said: "Boy, "If" I had a dog that looked like you, I'd shave it's ass and make it walk backwards" so I guess we better depend upon OFF's money only.

Couple things to note here:

Notice the open hole in the metal case is larger than the plastic insert or "bobbin" shown here:

Notice the internal "bobbin" is recessed internal to the metal case shown here:

Read this first fully before acting:

Fashion some type of tool to push on the plastic "bobbin" from above while the solenoid coil sets upright on a hard surface. Remove that straight slot screw which holds the insulator firmly in place. Citing the solenoid coil is "open" or does not "ring" with an ohmeter, place the coil assembly into a pan of water. It is alright to submerge it totally and bring the heat up to just below boiling. Allow to dwell in the hot water for a few minutes. Remove the coil, set it upright on a firm surface and apply downward pressure with your fashioned tool. The hot water should loosen the adhesive bond of the glue they put these things together with.

Once the "bobbin" is free from it's bonding in it's metal shell, try to guide the insulator and contact out of it's encumbrance without destroying it. No matter if it's salvageable or not but do try to save it for ease of assembly. Once apart you will see fine wire that is usually a red varnished color and probably a yellowing clear tape. The tape is called Kapton, and the wire is magnet wire. Both are available via online suppliers as is electrical varnish.

Get a known good ohmic reading from another coil if cannot be ascertained in print. This wire has a finite resistance value per foot of length and figure out how to wind that "bobbin" with new wire to very close to the ohmic value desired. You are probably going to require several hundred feet but it's easy to do. I did all six of mine at the kitchen table. I will look in some books I have but I'm not near as familiar with these things as "OFF" would be.

 

[James Gordon]

Thanks for everyone's input. I have a lot of research to do now. My next project is to get my 392 hemi in my old Plymouth to sing again

 

[excavator]

Hey OFF, I have a parts manual that is titled "Model 40" that lists a couple of different FPS options along with part numbers, pages 2-57 and on. If I remember correctly it should be in the CD that I sent you several years ago, I just don't know quite how to read it.

 

[1693TA]

Thanks for everyone's input. I have a lot of research to do now. My next project is to get my 392 hemi in my old Plymouth to sing again

I had one of those in a Savoy with a Doug Nash 5spd behind through an 8.75 Chrysler rear. Ran really well too with two Holley 660 center squirters through a Weiand tunnel ram feeding it.....

 

[James Gordon]

Well I was hoping with using OFF's money and my good looks, we'd have you up and running but then I got to thinking grandpa always said: "Boy, "If" I had a dog that looked like you, I'd shave it's ass and make it walk backwards" so I guess we better depend upon OFF's money only.

Couple things to note here:

Notice the open hole in the metal case is larger than the plastic insert or "bobbin" shown here:

Notice the internal "bobbin" is recessed internal to the metal case shown here:

Read this first fully before acting:

Fashion some type of tool to push on the plastic "bobbin" from above while the solenoid coil sets upright on a hard surface. Remove that straight slot screw which holds the insulator firmly in place. Citing the solenoid coil is "open" or does not "ring" with an ohmeter, place the coil assembly into a pan of water. It is alright to submerge it totally and bring the heat up to just below boiling. Allow to dwell in the hot water for a few minutes. Remove the coil, set it upright on a firm surface and apply downward pressure with your fashioned tool. The hot water should loosen the adhesive bond of the glue they put these things together with.

Once the "bobbin" is free from it's bonding in it's metal shell, try to guide the insulator and contact out of it's encumbrance without destroying it. No matter if it's salvageable or not but do try to save it for ease of assembly. Once apart you will see fine wire that is usually a red varnished color and probably a yellowing clear tape. The tape is called Kapton, and the wire is magnet wire. Both are available via online suppliers as is electrical varnish.

Get a known good ohmic reading from another coil if cannot be ascertained in print. This wire has a finite resistance value per foot of length and figure out how to wind that "bobbin" with new wire to very close to the ohmic value desired. You are probably going to require several hundred feet but it's easy to do. I did all six of mine at the kitchen table. I will look in some books I have but I'm not near as familiar with these things as "OFF" would be.

My Mother used to say " If frogs had wings it wouldn't bump their ass when they hopped"

 

[OFF]

well, looks like good ol' Google let us down on this one. My search came up empty. You may have no choice but to repair your old coil as 1693TA suggested.

Does it measure as "open" or just a lower resistance than the other coils?

 

[James Gordon]

My searches are coming up empty also. Is there a name that is known for the FPS valves or who made them? Just trying to grasp at straws.

 

[James Gordon]

well, looks like good ol' Google let us down on this one. My search came up empty. You may have no choice but to repair your old coil as 1693TA suggested.

Does it measure as "open" or just a lower resistance than the other coils?

It says it is open, however I thought at first it ohmed out. Might try and see if is broke at the terminal. wishing for miracles I'm afraid

 

[1693TA]

Fluid Power Systems which is now a part of Parker-Hannifin. The original part number still exists but from the limited picture I've seen, it looks different. However it may be functionally the same. I would attempt to research through a local Parker Hydraulic's store