JD 410C drive shaft problem

[Dean]

Hi,

I just bought a 410C. It has a bad oil leak which the seller was less than honest about.

It has a leak out of the rear seal on the torque converter. The u-joint is flopping around and the seal must be blown.

My question is can the short driveshaft be removed with out taking the motor out(there is no slip joint in the shaft)? And can I replace the seal without pulling the motor?

The dealer said you have to pull the motor to do that repair.

Thank you
Dean

 

[willie59]

Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but there has to be some form of slip joint. The engine is mounted on rubber mounts. It vibrates. It even torque's under loads. Point is...it moves. The tranny gearbox...no move...rigid. Without some form of slip joint, something is going to break. Not saying the Deere dealer isn't right though. Maybe someone else knows a little more about this machine. I will say, if the rest of the machine is in good shape, it's worth fixin'. The C was a tough built machine.

 

[Phil]

ATCOEQUIP has a good point and the dealer might be hungry for he has a flock to feed.

It reminds me of an old 680 Case I had, the short driveshaft was indeed 'solid' but the front yoke on the shuttle slid forward just a little, after removing the U-joint bolts. The yoke was loose, for it had a male spline which was worn. The 'female' splined shaft in the shuttle must have been sealed on the outside and its 'hole', a dead end.

The dealer may very well be right though. Often with a cross section picture in parts book, one can get an idea, whether or not, a shaft or seal holder will come out the 'back end'. The guy at the parts counter may print a cross section picture off for you.

Can you give us a picture of the driveshaft and also of the leak? Very nice machine, Phil

 

[bill onthehill]

Go to the deere website and register to find a local dealer. Then you can access the parts and schematics online. Lot of help to have a pic of the innards before tearing in to it.

 

[Dean]

It reminds me of an old 680 Case I had, the short driveshaft was indeed 'solid' but the front yoke on the shuttle slid forward just a little, after removing the U-joint bolts. The yoke was loose, for it had a male spline which was worn. The 'female' splined shaft in the shuttle must have been sealed on the outside and its 'hole', a dead end.

Can you give us a picture of the driveshaft and also of the leak? Very nice machine, Phil

I think the JD might be like that Case.

I will try to get a pic but I might get oil on the camera

 

[Dean]

Go to the deere website and register to find a local dealer. Then you can access the parts and schematics online. Lot of help to have a pic of the innards before tearing in to it.

Most helpful post. I went to the site and it looks like the rear yoke slides.

Thanks for the help guys

 

[bill onthehill]

keep us posted on the repairs, please. We all learn by sharing problems and solutions. I have a funny feeling you will end up splitting the machine to reseal it. good luck. bill

 

[Deere John]

I looked at my 310C years ago thinking about the same fight when the time came. The rear yolk is splined into the rear end's shaft, and I think one of the joints unbolts, rather than both being press-out. But I'm not sure that both U-joints are not press out. I'll check when I am next near my machine.

 

[Dean]

Here is what I have found so far.

The rear yoke is splined and slides back when you unbolt the front joint. I think the front joint is made to wobble on the spline for motor movement. There is an o-ring in the front joint.

The o-ring on my machine is too small in thickness causing the leak. I will replace the o-ring with a new one and report back.

Thank you again for the help
Dean

 

[willie59]

I'm missing something in the mechanics here. First, I would think it's abnormal for a splined yoke to "wobble" on a splined shaft. That's usually an indication of something worn. A splined yoke should move laterally, but it shouldn't wobble. But here's what I missing; the rear shaft yoke is on a splined shaft and will move back some distance when you remove the caps of the front u-joint. Ok, got that. But the front yoke is splined as well. What keeps the whole shaft assembly from sliding back? There has to be some form of retainer for the front yoke, either a snap ring or a retainer bolt and washer in the center of the yoke and shaft. :beatsme

 

[Dean]

I don't get it either. The front joint is held on with a retainer and two bolts. There is the o-ring between the the retainer and the yoke. That retainer keeps the joint from coming off. Maybe the yoke shouldn't wobble but I can't figure out why JD would design the joint like that. I would think that a simple nut on the shaft to hold the yoke on would work. I will take a pic of the parts later and post it.

 

[bill onthehill]

If the yoke is wobbly on the splines it will need replaced. Most likely was run with the 4wd engaged on dry ground or roads. Something has to give and it is usually the cast iron in the yoke. I am curious to see the pics also.

 

[Dean]

I replaced the O-ring and the new one was a little tighter. So then I checked the oil and found that someone had WAY over filled the box. Guess I should have checked that first huh. I haven't run it yet cause I am getting a leaky cyl fixed. So no wonder it was leaking when I got the mach.

Thanks for your help
Dean

 

[V16CatMetKanick]

Hey Dean, who is your local Deere dealer? We deal alot with Shmidt in Boston area for Deere parts. They are really good to deal with, alot better than Nortrax. They can usually get us our parts by the afternoon or first thing in the morning.

 

[Dean]

Hey Dean, who is your local Deere dealer? We deal alot with Shmidt in Boston area for Deere parts. They are really good to deal with, alot better than Nortrax. They can usually get us our parts by the afternoon or first thing in the morning.

I went to Shmidt in Billerica MA. They seemed nice in there.