JD 310SJ died suddenly. Need help diagnosing

[vikingsven]

Running my 310SJ last week and it died suddenly. I put it in neutral and it restarted fine, ran for about 10s and died again. I would not start after that until I disconnected power for 10m or so. It did the same thing.

Serial #T0310SJ144440

Active codes: FLC 2000.09, SDM 2000.09, SDM 1196.11

Things I've checked:

Batteries: They are several years old but I pulled each one out and they both showed 12.4 volts. I cleaned all connections and reinstalled. Could they still be bad?

Wires and grounds all look good. No corrosion in any connectors, no wire breaks.

All fuses are good.

I've noticed that when starting there is no longer the usual dual beeps from the console. I assume this is a self check? Seems odd.

Engine ECU was gone thru and rebuilt a little over a year ago. It will still start occasionally and run anywhere from 5 to 30s before abruptly shutting off.

Thoughts?

 

[Simon C]

You could have a relay dropping out, Fuel solenoid dropping out if it has one,or a switch failing under load of current, or some connection that is not good enough to hold load more than 5-30 seconds.
Maybe post a picture of your Fuel Injection pump from more than one angle.
Simon C

 

[ohdeereme]

If it's the Stanadyne DE10 injection pump it could be a bad connection in the two wire connector on the back of the pump that connects to the solenoid or the connector on the ECU has a loose connection on a pin in the ECU for the switched or unstitched power or the ground pin. Unhook the ECU connector and look at the terminals for the red wires and the black wires. If they're spread open you can take a small pick and try to bend the tang in the terminal so it will fit tighter on the ECU terminal. Check the wires and connector going to the speed sensor that's in the front cover of the engine right behind the crankshaft pulley in about the 5 o'clock position. I couldn't find the serial # breaks on the parts page but the later J's had common rail injection but you probably have the DE10. Good luck.

 

[vikingsven]

Thanks guys! I'll check those things out and report back.
I read in another thread that it could be the batteries being weak and unable to support the required voltage under load even though they show 12.4v unloaded. That would potentially explain the strangeness I'm seeing in the monitor with the self test. Going to swap the batteries out for a known good pair to see if that changes anything, but I'll check everything else you mentioned as well.

 

[ohdeereme]

I forgot to mention to check the engine wiring harness for rubs where it's routed behind the engine block. That can cause the monitor issues as well as the engine dying. Also check the cap on the fuel tank. The vent is made into it and the brass looking media you see on the bottom side can get stopped up and cause a vacuum in the fuel tank. That usually causes the engine to loose power after running for a while. It will loose power sooner the fuller the tank is.

 

[vikingsven]

I will do that. Thanks!!

 

[vikingsven]

Got some time to look at this thing finally...

I started by replacing the batteries and it fired right up, but died when I increased the throttle on the dash. Same active codes as before. So I disconnected the batteries and let it sit for 10m. After that it ran fine, no active codes, throttle works... There still is no dual beep from the monitor on key on, which may indicate another issue?? idk

I went through all the diagnostics in the monitor and everything looks good. The issue now is I couldn't get it to move. All the solenoids passed their tests, the shuttle lever and gear selector work. The one thing that stood out was the brake pedal switch would always show 'off', even with the brake pressed. From what I understand, the unit will not go into gear if there is no brake signal?... I checked the fuse and it was blown. Swapped in a new one and the brake diagnostic worked exactly once, and blew the fuse right after. I'm thinking a bad connection on the brake switches so I'll pull those apart and clean them up when I get some time. (Ran out of time today).

Any thing else you guys think I should check?

 

[ohdeereme]

I'm pretty sure the only brake signal is to indicate that the parking brake is released. The switch for the parking brake is on top of the park brake housing on top of the rear axle. The park brake indicator light in the monitor should go out when the park brake is released. Check the transmission oil level. Oil from the transmission can leak into the rear axle from the parking brake piston or the differential lock piston seals. If that's the case get the trans. and rear axle oil levels correct and run the machine and see how fast the oil is lseking into the axle. You can remove the check plug in the rear of the axle and let the engine run with the parking brake released. If no oil is coming out then you can run the engine with the differential lock engaged and see if oil is running out of the check plug hole. If it's the diff. lock and you don't use it you can plug the line and run the machine. The diff. lock piston seals are quad ring seals and I've saw a few get splits in them. The axle has to be removed to replace the diff. lock seals. Good luck!

 

[vikingsven]

There's a signal for the parking brake on/off and one for the service brakes on/off in the diagnostics monitor . I read that there must be a signal from the service brakes in order to shift into Fwd or Rev, and that's the issue I'm dealing with now. No Fwd and Rev, and as soon as I press the service brakes it pops the fuse. Parking brake cycles on and off normally, so that's good news. I have a good feeling there is a short in one of the wires related to the service brake circuit, or the horn, since it's on the same circuit from the looks of it...Rodents have been a real issue where the hoe is stored. Going to be a few days until I can get back over there to look more.

 

[mg2361]

I read that there must be a signal from the service brakes in order to shift into Fwd or Rev,

Not true. You do not need to apply the brakes to shift into gear. The only thing the brake light circuit affects other than the brake lights is the throttle circuit.

as soon as I press the service brakes it pops the fuse.

Then there is a short in that circuit that needs to be repaired. Check the brake light bulbs first.

 

[ohdeereme]

I remember one that had a bad brake pressure switch in the brake valve. One of the switches was shorted to ground internally. Disconnect the switches and jump the connectors one at a time. If the fuse doesn't blow one or both switches is shorted.

 

[vikingsven]

Thanks guys for the education. I appreciate it. Good to know the brake circuit is only for the light.

ohdeereme, I'll check the fluid levels next and do as you recommended to check for leaks. If it turns out to be the parking brake piston, what is involved to repair the seals on it? If it's the diff lock piston leaking, do you know what size plugs I'll need to cap the line so I can get those before hand? Thanks again!

 

[vikingsven]

Looks like 9/16-18 ORFS (ORFS 04) if I'm reading it right?

 

[Diesel Dave]

Looks like 9/16-18 ORFS (ORFS 04) if I'm reading it right?

Correct. o-ring T77814…-4 ORFS

 

[ohdeereme]

It's possible to reseal the parking brake with the axle in the machine but it's pretty tough getting the friction discs lined up and the yoke put back on. Unless it's leaking really bad I would just keep an eye on the trans. level and drain the excess out of the axle ( or change the axle oil, that's a good item to over service because ZF parts are really expensive ). The diff. lock piston seals require the axle to be removed and the left final drive removed to get to the piston.

 

[vikingsven]

Update:
I started off checking trans fluid and it was filled appropriately and looked good, but a bit foamy at first. When I pulled the cap there was significant pressure released, which I thought was odd. I pulled off the floor plate and cleaned out around all the solenoids. They were covered in mud and debris. They looked fine. No loose wires or breaks. I pulled the trans filter to see if it had oil and it did. Last thing I checked was the axle pressure sensor and axle oil level, which was fine. The pressure sensor connector didn't appear to be fully seated so I made sure it was.
After that, I was then able to run through all the gears with the tires in the air. Same thing when I put it back down, so all seems to be good now. No codes. No issues.
Could the pressure in the trans have created an air pocket leading to the foamy oil and shifting issues?
I'm going to power wash the whole thing and inspect the breather. I have a feeling that's an issue here.

I'm glad it's operational but I don't like mysterious fixes without a clear culprit...

 

[mg2361]

If the connector for the park brake switch on top of the axle was loose, that could cause an intermittent no travel issue.

 

[vikingsven]

Thanks MG, I will double check that connector and make sure it has a good solid connection.