Issues with roosa master from 580 bck

[mat76]

Hi everyone,
I have some issue with my backhoe
I rebuild the injection pump my self and I assuming I messed up but it's almost impossible to find a shop here
First compression is good across board , injector are new and working
Timing is correct, valve clearance good
The problem is two cylinder are not firing , cylinder 1 (front of backhoe ) and 4
They are smoking white but no combustion
Sometimes on low rpm cylinder 1 fires but full throttle they both smokes without combustion

Anyone could help figure what going on ?any specialist of roosa master ?

New video by mathieu delcourt

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[thepumpguysc]

Watching the video, it looks like they’re all puffing white until it runs for a few seconds..
How is the starting.?? Does it take awhile to get it started.??
Did u have a manual to go by.?
Do u know about the dot to dot on the drive shaft.??
Do u have the cam ring in correctly.??
As u know, there’s 1 unit supplying all the cylinders..the rotor.. it’s almost impossible to have 2 outta 4 cyls acting up and blame the pump..
(If put together correctly)

 

[T-town]

Welcome Mat76....
......if you have not had the chance yet to search thru this site... you should know that you have the ear ( post #2) of the finest 'pumpguy' on the planet.... at the very least, the finest 'round here.
Whatever he says about pumps... he will lead you where you need to go

Good luck

 

[Delmer]

Is it possible that you swapped the lines from 1 and 4?

The way you're moving the "throttle" makes it harder to see what's going on. Holding the throttle on one low or medium speed would help see what it's doing. Is the governor acting correctly? or not?

 

[thepumpguysc]

# 1 line should be hooked up to the pump at 7:00 looking at the back of the pump..
Then goes in the firing order in a clockwise direction
1=7:00, 3=11:00, 4=1:00, 2=5:00 looking at the back of the pump..

Hold the throttle tight..or.. screw the low idle screw DOWN until you get to a mid rpm.. and hold the throttle against the stop.

 

[mat76]

I will check the hose but they are hardline, it would be very hard to mismatched them. The bend they have kinda put them where they need.
The engine start quite easily surprisingly
Yes I followed the on the shaft and the dot in the pump
I did followed the manual and took pictures at every step aswell

Let's imagine I put the cam ring backward ( cc was facing up in my picture ) that would do that ?

Sorry on video I was giving throttle to see when the #1 stop firing , the governor works fine it idle ok (on two cylinders so...)
I'll make an other video with steady throttle

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes, double check the lines from the pump to the injectors.

Did u remove the leaf spring on the rotor.??
What did u reset it to.??
THATS the max fuel setting..
The cam in backwards will give you half the required fuel delivery..

 

[mat76]

Unfortunately yes I removed the leaf spring....
I read somewhere on this forum or an other to screw it all the way and back out 1/4 turn, I actually tried by 1/8 of turn from all in until it won't start but it's doing the same
So the ring backwards could explain the problem I guess, half of the cylinder for half for half the fuel ?

 

[mat76]

I checked the fuel line it's the right order

 

[thepumpguysc]

The leaf spring adjustment is VERY IMPORTANT.. called the
Roller to Roller (R/R)
How did the rotor look.??
Any wear lines going around it.??
I literally just got one in that was white smoking and hard to start.. the head and rotor had wear rings all around the rotor and needed replacing..
I replaced the H&R and all problems solved..

 

[mat76]

It was dirty but no scratches or visible wear
I guess I have to take it apart again
Is the parts still available new ?

 

[thepumpguysc]

The cam ring has an arrow, not
“CC”..
Looking down on to the H&R, the arrow should be facing to the LEFT..then u put on the weight retainer with the line on the retainer (old style) to the line on the rotor.
If you have a new style w. retainer, the small cut out goes to the line on the rotor..
Did u transfer the timing line.??

 

[thepumpguysc]

Holy Sh!t.. u don’t have a wire wheel.!!??
Did u order a new return connector 15830.??

 

[mat76]

Ok you lost me there
I did not separate the rotor from the head, I only remove the leaf spring and the roller and pin behind the roller
The cam ring should be the other way ? Im pretty sure that picture was right before I touched anything

 

[thepumpguysc]

What’s ur pump #.??
I’ll look up the r/r for ya..
Just put air 90psi or greater into one of the outlets in the head and turn the rotor until the plungers come out and measure across the 2 rollers..
ALMOST impossible with 1 person..

 

[thepumpguysc]

The pic is right.. the arrow is pointing to the left..(cc)

 

[thepumpguysc]

Are the plungers in the rotor free to move back and forth..
Real free.!! You should be putting it together WET.. dunking each part in diesel fuel.
The plungers should almost fall out when the rotor is tipped to one side or the other.. THATS FREE..

 

[mat76]

Thank you for your help I really appreciate!!
Pump is dbgfcc 431-46aj
Ill get the pump open and send more pictures
I need to get my hand in my micrometer too, we just moved, it's hard to find stuff , would a caliper be enough?

 

[mat76]

Cam ring was right
Do you see anything wrong in these pictures?

 

[mat76]

Are the plungers in the rotor free to move back and forth..
Real free.!! You should be putting it together WET.. dunking each part in diesel fuel.
The plungers should almost fall out when the rotor is tipped to one side or the other.. THATS FREE..

Yes the picture where on opening the pump , I cleaned everything up and the roller were free to move , reassembled everything with gasoil