Instructions on how to replace a links and pins in a track

[CatKC]

Instructions on how to replace a links and pins in a track.

I have worked on most excavator components but I am a novice when it comes to track repair.
I would appreciate it if anyone would provide me with –simplistic- and -detailed- instructions on how to replace the track parts.
I am on the ‘older side’ and weigh 150 lbs so I am -not strong- but I know how to use leverage and hydraulics to accomplish the work. I will likely have to do the work by myself.

I included pictures of the track parts that need replacing. Any hints/help/advice/comments would be appreciated.

 

[DEMLONE70]

Do u have pic of the other side of the track (inside)

 

[Junkyard]

Most excavators will need a press to get them apart. Are you doing a few links or a whole new rail? New pads also? To make life easy to get it apart to make repairs you can cut one of the bad rails with a torch. Going back together you may need somebody to come with a press or get your favorite BFH and a torch to heat the link up a bit and usually with new clean pin and bushings you can beat it in there. You may have to make yourself a giant punch with a handle so the person holding it doesn't get whacked with a glancing blow. All depending on how much of it you're going to replace. Bottom rollers will be tight, a 3/4" breaker and a come along to something solid will break them or a torque multiplier. Top rollers aren't usually too bad, loosen the clamp bolts and beat the shaft/idler out of the stand it's in/on.

Give us an idea of what's getting done and we can help with a course of action.

Junkyard

 

[92U 3406]

Not sure what you are looking to do? Are both chains worn out or are there just a few broken links on an otherwise good chain? If the chain is good apart from a bad link or 2, I would just replace the bad links. Normally when the chains are worn out completely we just replace the entire chain and the sprockets.

Also, do yourself a favour and buy new hardware to re-install the track shoes. Chances are a few bolts will either need to be torched out or will not be in a reusable condition.

 

[CatKC]

Most excavators will need a press to get them apart. Are you doing a few links or a whole new rail? New pads also? To make life easy to get it apart to make repairs you can cut one of the bad rails with a torch. Going back together you may need somebody to come with a press or get your favorite BFH and a torch to heat the link up a bit and usually with new clean pin and bushings you can beat it in there. You may have to make yourself a giant punch with a handle so the person holding it doesn't get whacked with a glancing blow. All depending on how much of it you're going to replace. Bottom rollers will be tight, a 3/4" breaker and a come along to something solid will break them or a torque multiplier. Top rollers aren't usually too bad, loosen the clamp bolts and beat the shaft/idler out of the stand it's in/on.

Give us an idea of what's getting done and we can help with a course of action.

Junkyard

This is for a 312. I just want to replace a couple of links and pins. The 'really worn' one and the one next to it.
Reason- if I am traveling and turn it will POP (I assume the worn link) sometimes and I don't want to take a chance on the track coming off.
Pads are OK.

 

[CatKC]

Not sure what you are looking to do? Are both chains worn out or are there just a few broken links on an otherwise good chain? If the chain is good apart from a bad link or 2, I would just replace the bad links. Normally when the chains are worn out completely we just replace the entire chain and the sprockets.

Also, do yourself a favour and buy new hardware to re-install the track shoes. Chances are a few bolts will either need to be torched out or will not be in a reusable condition.

Everything is in good shape except for the two links on the one side. Nothing broken. I would like to just replace the two links if possible.

 

[CatKC]

Do u have pic of the other side of the track (inside)

I can take one if it will help.
Track in good condition except for the two links.

 

[Junkyard]

Easiest would be to have somebody come out and press the new ones in. Other option is to cut one of the bad ones, pull the track and take it to cat. Have new links put in and your master pressed out so you can stick the track back on and beat the new pin in. Don't forget new bolts for the pad or pads you have to remove to make life easier getting the master in. You can give beating the pins out a whirl you might get lucky.

 

[CatKC]

Do u have pic of the other side of the track (inside)

Couple of pictures of the inside of track.
I believe the 'bad' links are where a pin runs thru and might have a cotter pin on the inside?

 

[DEMLONE70]

Yes it has a cotter pin
The place to separate the track

 

[CatKC]

Most excavators will need a press to get them apart. Are you doing a few links or a whole new rail? New pads also? To make life easy to get it apart to make repairs you can cut one of the bad rails with a torch. Going back together you may need somebody to come with a press or get your favorite BFH and a torch to heat the link up a bit and usually with new clean pin and bushings you can beat it in there. You may have to make yourself a giant punch with a handle so the person holding it doesn't get whacked with a glancing blow. All depending on how much of it you're going to replace. Bottom rollers will be tight, a 3/4" breaker and a come along to something solid will break them or a torque multiplier. Top rollers aren't usually too bad, loosen the clamp bolts and beat the shaft/idler out of the stand it's in/on.

Give us an idea of what's getting done and we can help with a course of action.

Junkyard

I've replaced top rollers before. I didn't have the strength to break the bolts loose so I got a cheater bar against the bucket and broke it loose. I used a chain to pull the rollers off with the bucket and used a heavy bar and the bucket to shove it back on.
But I've never worked on a track before.

I don't know how or where I should position the 'removable?' link to get it out. Bottom, in front, in the rear, on top . . . .
Is it possible to put the track link between two bottom rollers and use a bar and the bucket to push out the pin ?

 

[CatKC]

Yes it has a cotter pin
The place to separate the track

Any ideas or information on how I can go about replacing a couple of links ?
Is it even possible to do ?

 

[92U 3406]

Usually I break the track at the idler.

 

[GregsHD]

Yep break the track just at the top/front of the idler, I've had good luck burning a small hole in each end of a stubborn pin about 1" deep with a torch and they'll tap right out, (careful not to nick the link) don't use that trick on sealed oil filled rails.

Do you have a pic of the sprocket? I'm assuming they are just as worn as the rails and that's where the popping is coming from.

I would suggest you hire an independent mechanic to do this work for you, would be money well spent.

 

[Scrub Puller]

Yair . . .
If it is not SALT just cut the bad links out reassemble some segments using a master bush if available and reassemble with cherry red heat.

Unless the metallurgy of track components has changed in the past fifty years a bit of heat makes no discernable difference to the life of the parts.

Our tractors used to walk thirty to fifty miles every day and a repair such as this would be done while the operators had lunch.

Cheers.

 

[Junkyard]

What Scrub said.

xxxx took care of that for ya Scrub

 

[CatKC]

Yep break the track just at the top/front of the idler, I've had good luck burning a small hole in each end of a stubborn pin about 1" deep with a torch and they'll tap right out, (careful not to nick the link) don't use that trick on sealed oil filled rails.

Do you have a pic of the sprocket? I'm assuming they are just as worn as the rails and that's where the popping is coming from.

I would suggest you hire an independent mechanic to do this work for you, would be money well spent.

Sprockets have average wear and are in good shape. Pop only occurs on the one side and only going forward with a slight turn when that side is on the 'downside' and (apparently) when that section rolls over the sprocket.

I may try that for removal as I will have to replace the link anyway. At any rate it sounds like I need to get someone else to do the work, which is difficult as around here no one within a hundred miles works on such things.

 

[CatKC]

Any suggestion on where to buy the links, pins, Etc for a reasonable price ??

 

[CatKC]

Any suggestion on where to buy the links, pins, Etc for a reasonable price ??

Never mind, I found a source. Three links and two pins for about $100. Cheaper than I thought, now I just have to get a helper.