Roger that CM. Don't know why it needed a new motor so soon. I have not talked to this dealer. My point is, if they want this much for an old machine then what are they going to want for a new one. There are plenty out there like it in the 25K range. Furthermore, my wife has decided that I'm, definitely, getting a cabbed machine, but I had considered a open cab with the lexan door, which wouldn't do anything against those evil yellow jackets.
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Input Needed on CTL purchase!!
- Thread starter dukeyjoe
- Start date
Yea TR is Tracked Radial lift and TV is tracked Vertical lift. If you will spend most of your time between ground level and top of the cab the radial is said to be the best, if you spend most of your time from above that then the vertical lift is said to be the best for your application.
StumpyWally
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dukeyjoe:
I'm very sorry to hear about your horse...in addition to a high earner, he may be a real "friend" of yours, & putting him down would hurt...
I don't have any knowledgeable input on the Takeuchi TL230CR. But I will say that you should at least price new in anything you're interested in. You could be surprised...many manufacturers have incentive programs. For example, just one of the reasons I bought my NH L220 new was that NH offered 0% financing for 60 months plus a $500 reward card for NH parts & consumables. Why not work with someone else's money!!! Plus, you don't have to shell out a lot of cash up front on something used, which may have unforeseen problems that will have you working on it all the time to the exclusion of your real work. Besides, you seem to have very high WAF (wife acceptance factor) for the purchase...you said she has done some Bobcat dealer visits for you, & wants you to get a fully cabbed machine, etc.
By the way, I can't imagine working in Alabama without a full cab w/ ac, & then there's the yellow jackets..., plus I fully agree that for brush cutter work you need a lexan front door, not glass, so you're not killed with flying debris doing "...5"- 6" diameter" brush.
I'm very sorry to hear about your horse...in addition to a high earner, he may be a real "friend" of yours, & putting him down would hurt...
I don't have any knowledgeable input on the Takeuchi TL230CR. But I will say that you should at least price new in anything you're interested in. You could be surprised...many manufacturers have incentive programs. For example, just one of the reasons I bought my NH L220 new was that NH offered 0% financing for 60 months plus a $500 reward card for NH parts & consumables. Why not work with someone else's money!!! Plus, you don't have to shell out a lot of cash up front on something used, which may have unforeseen problems that will have you working on it all the time to the exclusion of your real work. Besides, you seem to have very high WAF (wife acceptance factor) for the purchase...you said she has done some Bobcat dealer visits for you, & wants you to get a fully cabbed machine, etc.
By the way, I can't imagine working in Alabama without a full cab w/ ac, & then there's the yellow jackets..., plus I fully agree that for brush cutter work you need a lexan front door, not glass, so you're not killed with flying debris doing "...5"- 6" diameter" brush.
"By the way, I can't imagine working in Alabama without a full cab w/ ac, & then there's the yellow jackets..., plus I fully agree that for brush cutter work you need a lexan front door, not glass, so you're not killed with flying debris doing "...5"- 6" diameter" brush."
Well, the brush isn't that big, but I have some sweet gums that size (that I thought were oaks :Banghead) growing in my pasture that have to go. You're correct on the WAF, I'm good to go there
You've got me, seriously thinking about OTTs. It may best for my application. KSSS, what do you think?
Well, the brush isn't that big, but I have some sweet gums that size (that I thought were oaks :Banghead) growing in my pasture that have to go. You're correct on the WAF, I'm good to go there
You've got me, seriously thinking about OTTs. It may best for my application. KSSS, what do you think?
CM1995
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It sucks..
Done it for many years and ate about as much dust as I moved.:tongRan OTT's for a while as well and they worked great. A CTL is better performing machine but that performance comes with a price tag and expensive maintenance over it's life. For your situation I would seriously consider OTT's.
If you decide to go the OTT route, pay attention to tire pressure and tire condition. Having to inflate/repair/change a tire on a machine with OTT's is a pain in the ass.
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apetad
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If you want the best there is this one's built in South Dakota: http://www.mustangmfg.com/MakeTracks/Introduction.aspx
http://www.mustangmfg.com/MakeTracks/Walkaround_copy1.aspx
http://www.mustangmfg.com/MakeTracks/Walkaround_copy1.aspx
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I would also be curious in hearing what makes it the "Best".
A couple things that don't contribute to that title are Resale value, dealer net work, and experience building CTL's. Branding someone elses doesn't count.
I would buy a machine with a cab. When you factor entire cost of the cab (purchase, depreciation and resale value) its well worth the money. Especially on the newest machines that have pressurized cabs.
I run OTT on my 465 when I am mulching, usually I put McLaren airless tires on so I don't have issue with flats, which really do suck with OTT. I like them, if you don't plan on working on asphalt or concrete they could be a cheaper substitute for a CTL.
MikeyJP1980
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There website is probably the worst I've seen. Maybe they are busy building good machines. I'm a fan of Takeuchi. I'm looking at the TL10 now.
heymccall
Senior Member
Aside from visibility all the way around, another "KEY" factor, in my choices to buy Takeuchis and Kubotas, was the flip up and store front window, akin to most excavator front windows. To the best of my knowledge, only Kubota and Takeuchi offer this much appreciated feature. The swing out door is an absolute PITA.
Wanna be sealed in, leave the window down. Wanna go al fresco, leave it open. My earliest Takeuchi TL150 has a swing out door, and, it truly is a PITA, and has had durability and switch issues, but, I have had it for 11 years now (and 5000 hours). My 248B rubber tire machine also has a swing out door, and, again, a royal PITA for ingress/ egress and visibility.
Wanna be sealed in, leave the window down. Wanna go al fresco, leave it open. My earliest Takeuchi TL150 has a swing out door, and, it truly is a PITA, and has had durability and switch issues, but, I have had it for 11 years now (and 5000 hours). My 248B rubber tire machine also has a swing out door, and, again, a royal PITA for ingress/ egress and visibility.
JCBiron
Well-Known Member
Duke,
That machine is actually 92HP gross, and has a Perkins engine. Should net out at about 82 HP. ROC of an 1110T JCB is about 2450lbs rated at 35% tipping load. I'll say this about the older CTLs, and I think you will find it consistent with my other posts on HEF. If you don't require 2spd, enclosed cab, or some of the other cushy bells and whistles, the 1110T can be a decent machine for a lot of people and generally had at a fair price. They had good power, decent hydraulics, and the side entry/safety.
Yes, they do use BSP fittings, but any competent hydraulic shop should have them, or at least be able to get them in a timely fashion. If you have a local JCB dealer, I would also think that they should stock common sizes and be able to make such hoses. Do check the bogey wheels and idlers. While the drive motors were not a source for concern, JCB did use another supplier before switching to Berco undercarriage parts, and we did see some pre-mature failures on older machines. An easy check is to simply use the bucket of the machine to raise the front off the ground, so that the machine is resting on the rear idler and then go around and try and turn the bogeys by hand. They should be firm, but you should be able to turn them. If they don't turn, or are hanging loose, they are shot. This is a good idea no matter what brand of CTL you are looking at.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
heymccall
Senior Member
Takeuchis are also constructed with BSPP, BSPT and Metric DIN light series fittings.
You're speaking Chinese! Please explain, is this a positive or negative. Also, what is a H pattern vs. pilot
heymccall
Senior Member
Chinese???? No, British.
British Standard Pipe Parallel (BSPP), British Standard Pipe Tapered (BSPT), and metric hose fittings are not necessarily more expensive than National Pipe Thread, SAE parallel pipe thread, JIC, ORFS, or SAE flared fittings, BUT, they are not as commonplace among many hydraulic hose shops, meaning that if you do not have a well-stocked hose shop nearby, many hose failures will result in additional down time, due to having to have the fittings shipped in.
In my region, I have several very well stocked, and knowledgeable, hose repair shops, and, it doesn't hurt that I have my own Parker hose machine and suitable, for my fleet, inventory on hand.
Even Caterpillar's "Cat Flange" hose ends can be rare to find in stock, as well as Komatsu's own metric flare connections.
I would not let hose end styles stop you from buying a machine.
British Standard Pipe Parallel (BSPP), British Standard Pipe Tapered (BSPT), and metric hose fittings are not necessarily more expensive than National Pipe Thread, SAE parallel pipe thread, JIC, ORFS, or SAE flared fittings, BUT, they are not as commonplace among many hydraulic hose shops, meaning that if you do not have a well-stocked hose shop nearby, many hose failures will result in additional down time, due to having to have the fittings shipped in.
In my region, I have several very well stocked, and knowledgeable, hose repair shops, and, it doesn't hurt that I have my own Parker hose machine and suitable, for my fleet, inventory on hand.
Even Caterpillar's "Cat Flange" hose ends can be rare to find in stock, as well as Komatsu's own metric flare connections.
I would not let hose end styles stop you from buying a machine.
RCTech9
Well-Known Member
I believe by this they are referring to the control pattern.
It's hard to decide which way to go. Too many choices.
When I decided to buy a ctl for my farm I had never even sat in one. My primary need was clearing scrub along fenceline and regrowth in paddocks as well as grading roads and having the ability to lift heavy objects.
I started looking on the internet and in trade magazines but still couldn't make up my mind so I drew up a short list of the features I thought were necessary for the job.
1) Comfort...You sit in these things for hours at a time so you need a comfortable cab. Air/cond and heat and joystick controls ( iso ).
2) Lifting capacity....I decided on a min 3000lb.
3) Weight....When your pushing/clearing scrub weight is your friend. The heavier the better.
4) Maintenance...Tractors never break down on the dealer doorstep. My previous experience at the farm has taught me if it breaks you will probably need to fix it yourself in the middle of the bush. Track gear had to be simple to maintain. The simpler the better.
5) Ground clearance...Working in the bush you need good ground clearance.
I went to a earthmoving trade show and sat in every skid steer they had there. I was able to make on the spot comparisons and came away with a short list of brands I liked and then compared them to my wish list.
I ended up with a good used Takeuchi TL150 which I purchased in Canada and had shipped to Australia.
So far so good.
When I decided to buy a ctl for my farm I had never even sat in one. My primary need was clearing scrub along fenceline and regrowth in paddocks as well as grading roads and having the ability to lift heavy objects.
I started looking on the internet and in trade magazines but still couldn't make up my mind so I drew up a short list of the features I thought were necessary for the job.
1) Comfort...You sit in these things for hours at a time so you need a comfortable cab. Air/cond and heat and joystick controls ( iso ).
2) Lifting capacity....I decided on a min 3000lb.
3) Weight....When your pushing/clearing scrub weight is your friend. The heavier the better.
4) Maintenance...Tractors never break down on the dealer doorstep. My previous experience at the farm has taught me if it breaks you will probably need to fix it yourself in the middle of the bush. Track gear had to be simple to maintain. The simpler the better.
5) Ground clearance...Working in the bush you need good ground clearance.
I went to a earthmoving trade show and sat in every skid steer they had there. I was able to make on the spot comparisons and came away with a short list of brands I liked and then compared them to my wish list.
I ended up with a good used Takeuchi TL150 which I purchased in Canada and had shipped to Australia.
So far so good.
I'm very happy with the Tak.
The TL230 sounds real good . I wouldn't buy it if it didn't have an air cab though. You dump a bucket of dirt without a door or work in a dry dusty paddock and you'll know what I mean.
Somebody here has already mentioned the dangers of working in scrub without a door. Taks have the lift up door not the swing out door which I think is a plus.
The difference in the two control patterns is that on the H pattern , Case control pattern?, your left joystick controls your left track ( forward and reverse ) and the lift arm up and and down. Your right joystick controls your right track ( forward and reverse ) and your bucket. The other pattern , as used on the Tak, the left joystick controls all movement of the machine and the right joystick controls all movement of the arms and bucket.
With the H pattern to go straight forward you need to push both joysticks forward. Reverse both back. To go left or right you just ease up on the left or right stick.
With the Tak you have the advantage of either pattern . You just swap a couple of hose around.
Mine had the case pattern and I've swapped it back to original. The Case pattern for me was a PIT. If you let go of one joystick to scratch your nose or swat a fly you immediately change direction.
Taks also have hydraulic control joysticks not electric over hydraulic.
Regards...........Phil
The TL230 sounds real good . I wouldn't buy it if it didn't have an air cab though. You dump a bucket of dirt without a door or work in a dry dusty paddock and you'll know what I mean.
Somebody here has already mentioned the dangers of working in scrub without a door. Taks have the lift up door not the swing out door which I think is a plus.
The difference in the two control patterns is that on the H pattern , Case control pattern?, your left joystick controls your left track ( forward and reverse ) and the lift arm up and and down. Your right joystick controls your right track ( forward and reverse ) and your bucket. The other pattern , as used on the Tak, the left joystick controls all movement of the machine and the right joystick controls all movement of the arms and bucket.
With the H pattern to go straight forward you need to push both joysticks forward. Reverse both back. To go left or right you just ease up on the left or right stick.
With the Tak you have the advantage of either pattern . You just swap a couple of hose around.
Mine had the case pattern and I've swapped it back to original. The Case pattern for me was a PIT. If you let go of one joystick to scratch your nose or swat a fly you immediately change direction.
Taks also have hydraulic control joysticks not electric over hydraulic.
Regards...........Phil
Thanks Phil,
That TL230 does have cab, heat and air. I can, also, buy an extended factory warranty past the original. So far, I haven't been able to find a better deal on a CTL.
I am considering getting a SSL and putting OTT on it. I think that setup may offer some versatility in applications, as I could remove the tracks when they are not needed.
That TL230 does have cab, heat and air. I can, also, buy an extended factory warranty past the original. So far, I haven't been able to find a better deal on a CTL.
I am considering getting a SSL and putting OTT on it. I think that setup may offer some versatility in applications, as I could remove the tracks when they are not needed.