I think I need to make a ripper 'saw'

[AirBornOne]

Hey gang,
Digging out another little tree with my TB016 has got me thinking about a ripper w/ a 'saw' edge face that would allow me to just cut through roots.
So far the conception is 18-24 inches long,atypical ripper tooth profile.
2 pieces 1/2" thick A-36 steel (thats what my local steel guy has) flush bolted together from each side (FH allen head machine screw),with a 1/2 X 1/2 piece of something harder than A-36 facing the concave edge (the 1/2 X 1/2 being ground in an alternating/opposing pattern to give some saw action).
Please advise.
Thank you.
Jay.:usa

 

[hvy 1ton]

Made me think of this post.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showpost.php?p=95116&postcount=13

 

[AirBornOne]

Thanks hvy 1ton,
I've never seen that thread.Kinda validates my thinking.
Skies.
Jay.

 

[sasquatchman]

That's a great idea. I've dug up small trees too and found the work tedious. I just wonder how long the teeth would stay sharp sawing through dirt.

 

[AirBornOne]

$129.00 for 2sq.ft. of 3/4" A-36 plate!!! $35.00 is for the flame cutting though.Think I'll re-measure.
Now if I could just find some 30mm ID heavy wall tube nearby.I would even go with 1-3/16 but all I can find is DOM.
! Actually,with the pins running through it, the DOM might be A-OK. Wish I thought of that sooner.

I just wonder how long the teeth would stay sharp sawing through dirt.

I'm not too concerned about 'sharp' teeth, I think (hope) with the digging force concentrated in such a small zone it shouldn't take much of an edge to sever the roots.
Trying to keep this simple to help git'r done I figured I'd just start with the 3/4" plate and bevel the work surface a touch then maybe a few notches with the angle grinder.
I would like to angle it off to one side or another (30deg.?) to aid in reaching in and around though.That will prolly have to wait for the 2.0 version.
Skies.
Jay :usa

 

[AirBornOne]

Well, my ripper blank should be ready to pick up today.
3/4" A-36 plate.I started with a 10" X 24" rectangle and just drew a tooth with a section on top for pin holes.
Initially I planned a series of 1/2" through holes along the ripping edge that the pattern cutter would just slightly trim leaving a slight, chisel shaped, tooth for both up and down stroke cutting.
I didn't think I could trust the cutter to cut that close so I will drill the holes after the tooth pattern is cut.
This will mean I'll need to keep the holes behind the edge and grind the edge just past the hole periphery (hmm,spell check didn't freak-that must be a real word!). This will make the edge slightly wavy but that might help the roots to slip towards the teeth.
Having a dickens of a time trying to find some 1-3/16" ID tubing nearby.Looks like I may have to mail order.Can you believe that?
Now if only I could hollow grind the edge...
Skies.
Jay.

 

[sasquatchman]

If you're having a hard time getting the exact size of tubing you need, just get something with a thicker wall and get a local machinist to bore out the tubing to the correct size on a lathe.

 

[AirBornOne]

If you're having a hard time getting the exact size of tubing you need, just get something with a thicker wall and get a local machinist to bore out the tubing to the correct size on a lathe.

Thanks Sasquatchman,
I was hoping to get this expedited w/o a circus,but alas you've called it.
I might be able to sneak in a project like this at work.There's an old Atlas lathe that might work-depends on if there is tooling or not.
IIRC I'll only need ~4-1/4" to span the Y-link.I should be able to bore that deep.And then I can get the correct 30mm I need and not the slightly larger 1.1875.
Soooo,w/o further ado.
Here's some preliminary picts of Tigger's claw.
1) The overview planform.
An 8 X 24 X 3/4" piece of A36 rendered down to this.$80.00 to have this cut I really expected a better edge for that kind of money.
2) With the 'teeth' bored
$40.00 for a 3/8" 4-flute end mill.Sheesh.But Oh what fun.Had to repair the drill press to get the RPM up.No one could figure why the infinitely variable speed adjustment wheel would not work.Can you say 'set screw'?Worked a charm but the old girl really made some noise @ appx 4500rpm.
3) Teeth close up.
Had a few issues like the drill table rotating ever so slightly.
I determined what angle I felt would be functional for the 'bite' and came away with a 3/32" offset.Then gave it the TLAR onceover for a 5/8" CC spacing.
Laid it all out with a circle chart and a sharpie.Line it up,clamp it down and DUCK! I don't think I've ever seen such a mass of needle like chips in all my life.I ended up shrouding the cutter with a soup can and a magnet.It took 3 to 5 times longer to clean after each bore than to make the hole.
4) Ta Da.
Next up,source the tubing for the mounting pins,prep and weld up the tubes then some finish work.

 

[strott]

Looks vicious!!!!

 

[AirBornOne]

Looks vicious!!!!

Indeed!
You should see what I do with a weed wacker.Scares the neigbors.You don't se a trend here do you?

 

[razvy]

what about a tooth in the end , is inexpensive and you do a better job , need a shank welded on .

http://thomasnet56.reachlocal.net/Asset/H&L834-3CAdapter.JPG
They are a lot of teeth style out there ,
ex : http://thomasnet56.reachlocal.net/Asset/H&L250TTigerTooth.JPG

 

[strott]

Is that blade your own design or a standard one?

 

[Canadian_digger]

That blade looks like a skil saw or miter saw blade!

 

[AirBornOne]

Is that blade your own design or a standard one?

That blade looks like a skil saw or miter saw blade!

Yes,that is an off the shelf,7-1/2" saw blade.Freud IIRC.I was hoping to use a 10-12" but the weight and cost persuaded me otherwise.
From my bamboo eradication project.Originally I was just digging it up but the 20+ ft. tall stalks were a bit cumbersome.So I cut it down to 6-12",dug it out,and gave the root stock to a friend from work.

what about a tooth in the end , is inexpensive and you do a better job , need a shank welded on .

Yes razvy, a tooth would be great!
Not totally necessary as this will be used for picking/cutting roots & and clearing growth from along side structures but I would like to have a tooth.
Do you know where in the S.F. Bay Area a tooth/shank can be purchased (w/o blood) ?
Skies.
Jay.

 

[razvy]

I am getting mine on line from Romac industries , great price and quality
http://romacindustrialparts.reachlocal.com
I well try building one mysealf , I found on line a company and I like the way is made ...
http://www.amiattachments.com/attachments.php?link=mini_excavator-rippers

 

[Danny Steel]

Hey Jay,

The Ripper Is looking sweet

I'm not sure what stage your at on your build, But those teeth that you have can be hardened up a tad

And that killer wipper snipper must work real fine, Great Idea

Danny

 

[AirBornOne]

Your to kind Danny,thank you.
I'm still waiting on the tube stock for the mounts.I picked up some 1/2" plate to suspend the beast.
I would like to have the teeth hardened. Do tell.
Two 1/2" plates will sandwich the stick & Y-link (using the tube bored to 30mm).
The rip/saw will attach to the 1/2" plate material using 2 or 3, 3/4" grade 8 bolts & spacers.This will allow the rip/saw to mount @ center or to one side should the need arise.I'm also considering offset holes to allow for an angle change.2 hole mounting would really help that along but the 3/4" bolts leave me a bit squeamish.Wish I could source some 1" around here.
The "wipper sniper" does work.Grabs alot but can sure trim the bamboo.
Funny though,when I use it my feet start to hurt.I think it's from my toes curling up tight .
SKies.
Jay.
P.S. Shopping for an appropriate tooth is making my head spin.

 

[Danny Steel]

Jay have you got a picture of what the mount should look like?

I hear your trying to get some tube to match........1 trick that I use, as long as the tubes can be short....I take solid shaft, And drill the hole to size for your pins.....on the lathe. I allways have small pcs of shaft (Cold rolled) around the shop.

Danny

 

[AirBornOne]

No picture as yet Danny.Just a pair of flat plates that will catch the pins on the stick & carry the bolts that suspend the rip/saw.
I was pullng my hair trying to find some 1-3/16 ID DOM tubing w/o success so I ordered a piece of 1-3/4" X 3/8" wall tube and open it up at work.If I can get the lathe to work.
Skies.
Jay

 

[AirBornOne]

Finally had some progress with the ripper saw.It's a bit cheesy but will let me know how it works.
Bought a second hand drill press & vise and managed to make some holes.3200rpm sure drills sweet!
Did you know a 3/4" hole saw makes a 13/16 hole! Grrrr.
The RipSaw will be centered between the plates w/spacers.I'll be able to swap them around if I need to move the RipSaw over to one side.
The edge of the plates sitting on the ground will get a pair of ~30mm holes to accept the stick & Y-link pins.Eventually some tube stock will be used to carry the pins.I'm having an Outrageous time getting the 1-3/4 tube opened up from 1" to 30mm.$100.00 & $60.00 estimates from local shops.I'm not even going to try the shop recommended by the welder.
Tried doing this at work but found no tooling to allow boring.Even tried making my own boring bar w/o success.The little Atlas is very limited.
I really expected the $80.00 I paid a Pro weld shop to yield a better edge and a truer arc.Totally Not pleased!I see an Oxy-Acetylene kit in my future.
Skies.
Jay.