I need help with a 310a starter

[fiatmom]

I started the 310 last month to keep everything lubricated but when I tried a few weeks later I could not get the starter to run. I took the starter to the shop and had it rebuilt. It was rusty inside so it needed the work. I installed it and had the same problem. I charged the battery, and checked the starter battery connection, I had 13.2 volts. When I checked it while turning the ignition the voltage went to 0. I then tried to jump between the bat. terminal and the S terminal and nothing happened. I hear a click sometimes but no cranking. Could this be a bad ground? someone said the engine may be frozen, that water may have entered the cylinders. When I have the chance I will pull it and jump it straight from the battery to see what will happen. The previous owner cut a lot of wires I would like to fond a wiring diagram.
Thanks
Nick

 

[Delmer]

Grab the fan belt with one hand and a fan blade with the other hand, tighten the belt while turning the blade. The engine should turn a bit easily and tighten up with compression, then move again in a few seconds. Or, whenever you take a starter out and you're concerned, turn the flywheel with a long screwdriver or pry bar, it will turn easily there.

It sounds like you have a bad battery cable connection, could be ground or positive. Check each side and each connection with a voltmeter while having somebody hold the key to start, you're on the right track.

 

[fiatmom]

Thank you for your response, The wiring is a mess. Is there a way to by pass it all and run a button or just a simple ignition switch? If I had a diagram it would be easy but the repair book does not have one. Does a diesel need power to run? When my battery died a while back it stopped working. It seema simple but all of the wires are hidden in a sheath.

 

[Delmer]

There are pushbutton under hood test start switches that could be hooked directly to the starter solenoid for testing purposes, being aware that if you start it in gear, you're dead. I would not recommend chopping up wiring harnesses as a general rule.

You most likely have a simple battery cable connection issue, don't make it worse.

 

[AllDodge]

had 13.2 volts. When I checked it while turning the ignition the voltage went to 0.

Agree, you have some bad cable and/or connections
Start with the cables, ohm them out and check under the fittings the best you can. Voltage should never go to 0, maybe 10V at the lowest. Even if the starter had a short

 

[Delmer]

If you have a cheap mulitmeter, check volts under load. Ohms can lie, volts under load never lies.

 

[Finca SDR]

Try jumping it just like a car with another battery. I've seen batteries that read good but drop to zero under load kinda like a false reading before they die completely

 

[edgephoto]

Based on your symptoms you most likely have a bad ground. You did not explain where exactly you were taking measurements but put the meter on the case of the starter and battery negative, set for volts. Try starting it and read the meter. If above about .5 volts you have a bad ground. I suspect you will read 12volts. If you don't you have a corroded wire on the power side.

Measure the voltage drop on the circuit. You do that when the circuit is live. In other words when you turn the key. Measuring resistance is a waste of time. It will not help you in this case. Large amperage circuits can be affected by a very small resistance.

 

[fiatmom]

Thanks I will be going to the farm on Tuesday and will report back. When I tested the volts I put my meter between the battery terminal on the starter and ground, when I turned the ignition the volts went to 0. I was just thinking I always put the trans in park boy will I feel like a fool if I left it in gear and the safety will not let it start.

 

[Scout_1969]

Not sure this is your machines issue but on my 310B had intermittent starting problems and corrosion on both ends of the large hot wire to starter. I kept dealing hard starts and eventually replaced this wire. The wire sheathing was deteriorated and missing in several spots where it crossed over the engine and probably shorting out. Now the engine turns over very fast and starts better in all temperatures

 

[fiatmom]

Well I figured it out. After tearing the beast apart and examining all of the wires I found a lot of loose wires. The main problem though was corrosion between the ground clamp and the wire. There was enough contact to show good connectivity, but it could not carry the load. I cut it off, cleaned the wires and reinstalled the clamp. It works well now. Next project is to pull the swivel cylinder on the left side.
Thanks for your help
Nick

 

[edgephoto]

Glad you got it sorted. I was pretty certain you had a bad ground based on the voltage measurement you took. There were a couple other less likely possibilities.

Do your battery terminals look like this:

If it does I would plan on replacing your battery cables or fixing proper permanent ends to the cables. These type of terminals are considered temporary and cause a ton of grief for people who use them. Just my 2 cents.

 

[fiatmom]

How did you know lol I guess that is next. Any ground wire long enough and at least #2 copper wire should work?

 

[edgephoto]

How did you know lol I guess that is next. Any ground wire long enough and at least #2 copper wire should work?

I new because you said you took it apart and it was giving you trouble. Those kinds of ends always give trouble. Spend the money on good quality cables or just buy them from the dealer. Chasing electrical gremlins to save a couple bucks isn't worth it in my opinion.

If your wire is in good condition you can buy terminals and solder them on. They make them with a slug of solder and you can use a propane/butane torch to heat them. They work pretty good.