Hy-Tran, Rotella, Mobile or Traveler? Need Advice

[1693TA]

What started this ordeal was the long term storage of the tractor. The torque converter charge pressure regulator is a sliding spool controlled by springs, and shims. When the engine is not spinning the transmission charge pump, this spool should be closed by spring pressure as the valve assembly also acts as an anti siphon valve for the transmission oil. The same charge pump also charges the torque converter via the pressure regulator. What was happening is the torque converter pressure regulator valve was not closing with engine shutdown allowing the lower positioned torque converter charge port to fill the torque converter housing full until it overflowed onto the ground until an equal oil level in the transmission with the torque converter charge port was attained which stopped the siphon action. Upon engine start, the spinning torque converter was ejecting the surplus out out of the starter nose area before the venturi pump could scavenge the accumulated oil in the torque converter housing. Once this venturi pump had evacuated the housing there was no more oil spew, but the transmission oil was four gallons low from the ordeal. I removed the seat, seat support bracket and rear floorboard and had to dig out over four inches of dirt to even see the valve body which is a three section valve. The center section was cleaned extensively, and the rear cover, (spring side) was removed. The spool was found to be frozen in it's bore. I used a hardwood dowel and "tapped" the spool which promptly broke free and slid in it's bore to the closed position. I was able to pull the spool with a slight "drag" bind at a definitive position in the bore close to where the spool was frozen in place. I then removed the spool, and cleaned everything up, (bore, spool, springs, shims) with fresh mineral spirits and the spool then slid in the bore effortlessly. After placing the springs and shims back as originally removed, cutting a new rear gasket, and buttoning it all back up, the problem no longer exists of the transmission being drained.

The other problem I think, (it may be in my head only) is that the right steering clutch was slow to reengage after a turn. Sort of like it was slipping as had a bit of a delay as opposed to the left steering clutch upon reengagement. Both clutches disengage with virtually the same amount of pull on the steering clutch release handles. The steering clutches are hydraulic release and spring apply. With the transmission in gear, and both steering clutch handles pulled back in the release position, with the blade raised, if the engine is accelerated, the tractor will pull away indicating a dragging clutch. A low engine rpm and the tractor won't move at all. A slight application of either brake will immediately stop the tractor from moving as will dropping the engine rpm. This may be perfectly normal operation as has been mentioned a possibility, but the oil is at least 10/06 in age and probably older than that. It has been a Tractor Supply "universal" tractor fluid used. I've heard good and bad to this oil and am neutral myself.

The transmission upshifts, and downshifts smartly. Also drops into, and out of gear seemingly immediately when commanded. I think a good service is all that is needed but I'm not wanting to drag this out so electing to use a cleaner or additive to accelerate the process from a known and trusted vendor. I'm comfortable but again I want to expedite the process and this product seems to offer the solution I'm looking for without a lot of "bluster", or upheaval. I don't think it's a "snake oil" solution at all.

Thanks,

 

[1693TA]

Double post.

 

[Mcrafty1]

I don't have a good answer to your question as I really didn't ask about any other uses for the product than my application. Sorry. I hit on the cleaning action of the oil and parts in the transmission, steering clutches, and wet band brakes which use the same oil, but separate sumps.

Thanks, maybe someone else here has more to add to the list, I just find it odd that they list those three specific applications and nothing else, I'll be interested in hearing what you have to report on it's use, Thanks again for your response.

 

[Mcrafty1]

One other thing, it will be hard to know if what your filter catch as a result of the treatment without first at least removing and inspecting the filters in the machine now, or better yet replace them with new filters ( if you haven't already ) before you run the treatment cycle..Just a thought. If you wonder why I care it's because I have four pieces of construction equipment with the newest one being a 1994, and the oldest one being a 1968 all of which could probably benefit from some kind of internal cleaning.

 

[1693TA]

I have barrels which contained clean lacquer thinner and could probably reclaim the fluids fairly easily using my pneumatic pump on the rolling drain pan. That may not be a bad idea actually as I see nothing written down about strainer cleaning in the past service routines. It would be nice to have an established baseline to work from too. I could remove the oil, store it in barrels, clean the strainers, then reinstall the oil through a micron filter bank I have as it goes back into the machine prior to the cleaning treatment.

I'll put some thought to this scenario.

 

[Willie B]

I have barrels which contained clean lacquer thinner and could probably reclaim the fluids fairly easily using my pneumatic pump on the rolling drain pan. That may not be a bad idea actually as I see nothing written down about strainer cleaning in the past service routines. It would be nice to have an established baseline to work from too. I could remove the oil, store it in barrels, clean the strainers, then reinstall the oil through a micron filter bank I have as it goes back into the machine prior to the cleaning treatment.

I'll put some thought to this scenario.

My farmer friend keeps odd hours, as do I. He is third in line for the honor of cheapest man alive. He called one night; his 1948 International Farmall Cub had a bad gear. He replaced the gear, now he wondered how to filter the bits of metal out of the oil before putting it back in.

He also has the first Farmall M sold in town, a 1939 model year. I have a 1940, my son has a 1941. Seth called him once to ask about his choice of modern available gear lubricants. Roger answered: "Gee I've never put gear oil in the M."

 

[Willie B]

My father was an aircraft mechanic in WWII & Korea. He talked of tanker loads of drained oil sent back to be refined, used again.

 

[1693TA]

I have no intention of setting up a fractionation tower to cleanse used oil myself. I have a little reclaimer bank I built consisting of a 100mesh screen filter outputting into a 10 micron filter outputting to either a 2.5, or 4.0 micron spin on filter element. The 100 mesh, (~40 micron) is rather coarse but will disallow any "chunks" to pass through and is cleanable. The 10micron is actually a water separator filter and works very well in this purpose along with filtering oil. The 2.5micron filter is very fine filtration and the oil after passing through this is rather clean of impurities and can be reutilized for limited purpose. I feed this apparatus with a .5gpm pump which is electric powered and discharges into a clean barrel. I think it would work well as a flush/cleaner with the "Varniclean" product rather than use new oil as the flush.