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How to questions 503L Galion 1) adjust clutch 2) adjust F gear

goldhunter_2

Active Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
37
Location
TN
ok I tried the search nothing seem relevant in my search to this issue. I have two how to questions.

1) my clutch pedal is all the way up on floor spring does pull it back and there is roughly 1/4 travel before engage clutch arm because the hole in linkage is worn . I mite be able to drill and put a space in there going to see if can find shorter an thinner bushing in town . Either way I think clutch needs to engage little more because of problem I have with forward gear grinding question is do I turn the adjustment fork out or in to do that?



2) How to adjust Forward gear , it is actually a chain linkage so no adjustment. issue I and have is 1-4 and Reverse work great, Forward works when/if you can get in gear but grinds most time and pops out of gear when let off clutch. There is some wear in the pin holes of shafts (see picture) but not enough I can put a bushing and can't get drill in there to make bushing fit. My thought is the clutch needs adjustment , but I am not sure if there is some way to adjust the Forward gear also?
 

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  • grader worn cluth hole IMG_2962.JPG
    grader worn cluth hole IMG_2962.JPG
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  • grader f-r linkage IMG_2961.JPG
    grader f-r linkage IMG_2961.JPG
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  • grader F-R worn holes IMG_2963.JPG
    grader F-R worn holes IMG_2963.JPG
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goldhunter_2

Active Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
37
Location
TN
I figured I update this post incase there is someone in the future looking for same answer , sorry I forgot to take pictures.

1) adjust clutch under neath there is a threaded fork fitting on the clutch pedal arm , remove pine and take this lose, next back off the jam nut , then turn in or out depending what clutch adjustment you need the re-tighten jam not reattach fork fitting and your done

2) Forward revers shuttle shift , while my pin holes are worn they are not enough for bushing , the softer metal that wears is actual in the transmission shift shaft and the control arm not link. the lower arm looked like it just smooth and clamped on but it actual has splines , so you can slide it of a readjust one or two teeth just like advancing a timing gear , now grader shifts in to forward and reverse better then it ever has since I owned it
 

Clyde Hathaway

Active Member
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Irvington, VA
You did very good on both adjustments. Book says to have 1 inch of free play in clutch pedal before it engages throw out bearing against "fingers"
My forward/reverse lever broke at bottom weld and I ended up having to saw the forward/reverse slot in the flat plate with the shift pattern embossed on it. That was because even with the spline adjustment the multiple bends in shifter stick did not allow enough travel to stay in F/W without making slot longer. Once you post picture of your front wheel, I will send you parts picture. Hope this helps!
 

goldhunter_2

Active Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
37
Location
TN
You did very good on both adjustments. Book says to have 1 inch of free play in clutch pedal before it engages throw out bearing against "fingers"
My forward/reverse lever broke at bottom weld and I ended up having to saw the forward/reverse slot in the flat plate with the shift pattern embossed on it. That was because even with the spline adjustment the multiple bends in shifter stick did not allow enough travel to stay in F/W without making slot longer. Once you post picture of your front wheel, I will send you parts picture. Hope this helps!
ok it will be sometime next week before I can get grader out of there and get pictures , I think i had about 1/2 inch travel in my pedal now so I may have just done a little to much if book says 1 inch. I consider trying cutting out plate for forward gear lol but adjusted back two teeth and thing works great now. I guess it will take me a while to get all these little issues ironed out on machine and learn it.
 
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