How many psi should the turbo on a Ford A62 loader be producing?

[Murph_MDM]

As the title implies, Im looking for how many PSI the turbo should be producing on a Ford A62 wheel loader.

I installed a boost gauge and the need sits around 0 at idle and then it will max (briefly) at 7psi and typically sits around 5psi at full throttle. I am about to install a tach so I can see what rpm it is turning.

The reason for the question is that when the loader is pushing against a big pile, it can be held at full throttle, the engine revs up, the wheels will not turn the motor does not stall. Also, there is no speed differential between L and H in forward. Trying to determine if I have an engine down on power or a transmission not transmitting power to the ground.

Thinking I need to check injectors-- loader sat around a long time
Need to check lift pump also.

Trying to diagnose before I just start throwing parts at it.

Thanks,
Murph

 

[Delmer]

How long did it sit? did you run it before it sat? and is this running on a tank of fuel that sat a long time? Does it blow any smoke when you're pushing into a pile stalled?

And, I'd check the injection pump for any air line from the intake manifold, if there is no boost connection from the intake to the injection pump, and I doubt there is, then the injection pump is in control, the turbo only boosts up if there's enough exhaust to drive it from enough fuel. If you're not getting any smoke, then you have a fuel problem... A pic of the injection pump might help.

 

[Murph_MDM]

Bought it from pevious owner who stated it sat 8-10 years. Someone ran it out of diesel and it just sat after that--that was the story I was told.

I put 50 gallons of diesel in the tank which is its capacity so fuel should be fresh.

It isn't rolling coal when it is stalled in a pile, it always smokes a little, does not seem to increase smoke substantially when throttle is wide open and tires are stalled.

Thinking I should also replace (or pull and test/rebuild?) injectors. They are 40 years old at this point and it looks like its only about $250 to buy all four.

Any idea what psi the turbo should be building if running as designed?

Thinking the turbo may also be coked up. Planning on pulling it and inspecting it also.

Thanks for the help.
Murph

 

[thepumpguysc]

Murph>> check your prvt msgs..

 

[thepumpguysc]

That lift pump should put out atleast 6 psi.. just unscrew it from the injection pump & spin the motor & see if u get wet.. 6psi is a lot..
That solenoid on the side pushes on the excess fuel{choke} rod.. MAKE SURE the rod comes back out when the rps run up past low idle.. the rod gets stuck & blasts the engine w/ A LOT OF FUEL which actually drags the motor down..& heavy black smoke..
NOT SURE about the boost psi.. but I would think 7 would be good.. Follow the instructions in the prvt msg.
& let us know how it went..

 

[thepumpguysc]

That pump is engine oil lubricated BUT its self contained !!!
Its up TO YOU to maintain the level & quality of the oil contained inside the pump..
Follow the prvt msg instructions.
& its obvious WHERE the HI IDLE screw is {rpms}.. just above the low idle screw.. lol

 

[Murph_MDM]

That excess fuel rod is in the out (off) position in that picture correct? I can depress it and it pops back out to that position and it appears that is the out position based on the boot appearance. I have never gotten really heavy black smoke out of the machine-- not even close to a street truck coal rolling heavy....

I will attempt the other method you sent in PM and report back.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The rod SHOULD BE OUT in the normal run position.. it should be IN for starting..
If u can push it in & it pops back out, that's not right.. it should STAY IN..
TRY loosening the shut off cable & MAKE SURE the lever as ALL THE WAY to the right.. {Left is shut off}

Just for kicks, loosen the cable.. work the shut off lever back & forth a couple of times.. now leave it in the RUN position & push the rod by hand.. it should stay in.. IF it pops back out with no assistance, that's not right..
Its not hurting anything, its just not right..
IF you wanna see it in action.. start the motor, run it alittle above low idle & push the rod in..
& watch the smoke roll..lol

 

[Murph_MDM]

The rod SHOULD BE OUT in the normal run position.. it should be IN for starting..
If u can push it in & it pops back out, that's not right.. it should STAY IN..
TRY loosening the shut off cable & MAKE SURE the lever as ALL THE WAY to the right.. {Left is shut off}

Just for kicks, loosen the cable.. work the shut off lever back & forth a couple of times.. now leave it in the RUN position & push the rod by hand.. it should stay in.. IF it pops back out with no assistance, that's not right..
Its not hurting anything, its just not right..
IF you wanna see it in action.. start the motor, run it alittle above low idle & push the rod in..
& watch the smoke roll..lol

Loosened the shut off cable, worked it back and forth and pushed the rod in-- still pops out.
Had the engine idling and raised the rpm slightly and depressed the lever-- did NOT induce a smoke show.

Opened the injection pump oil level bolt-- what looked like rusty WATER came pouring out almost smelled like old stale gasoline. Not exactly sure what it was. Took the drain bolt off alos to get the rest of whatever liquid it was out. Refilled with Rotella T6 5-40 same as what is in the engine-- makes it easier to start on 0 degree mornings.

With a hand held tach and a piece of reflective tape on harmonic balancer and a helper holding the throttle wide open, no load, only seeing 1800rpm-- versus spec of 2375rpm. When I looked at the linkage, I realized the lever was NOT all the way against the WOT stop screw. I will try and adjust the pedal linkage tomorrow.

I never see a smoke show under any operating condition. When I first stab the throttle, I'll see a puff of black smoke but it immediately subsides and goes back to almost invisible.


Two interesting side notes--
1.) the A62 is fitted with 1.5 yard bucket and it has no problem lifting it when it is overflowing with wet heavy mud.

2.) Cold morning starts-- even when the nights were down in the teens for temperature and I do not have any heating devices on machine YET, I just pump the priming lever on the lift pump 10 times and give the intake a quick shot of starter fluid and the engine lights right off and goes immediately to idle.

Overall, even in its current running condition, it will be abe to do snow removal based on what I've seen it do with dirt/ mud-- I'm just trying to get it to where I have more of a cushion versus getting stuck. It's quite strange when the wheels won't turn and the motor doesn't stall it just fails to move....

 

[thepumpguysc]

That's what we call in the biz> baby sh!t.. As in, HEY your pump is full of baby sh!t !!! Its from not maintaining the proper oil quantity & the condensation that happens inside/outside the alum. pump body..
Also the residual fuel that's lost inside the pump.. GOOD THING u found it before the gov. stuck..
You "might" wanna do a couple of "flush's".. now that u know where/what to do..
On the back of the pump is a banjo bolt w/ a plastic pig tail.. THAT allows the pump body to breath.. clean out the banjo bolt & make sure the line is clear..
Its possible that the engine has been running at 1800 for so long w/ that water & dirt for lubricant, that the gov. weights are stuck at 1800 & wont move past it.. all u can do is try..{move the lever to the stop screw}

 

[Delmer]

I didn't see any mention of the fuel filters. I'd either check the fuel pressure just before the injection pump while it's stalled, or change the filters and take apart every hose and fitting and blow them all out, including the tank pickup.

After you get it to rev faster at high idle.

 

[Murph_MDM]

I didn't see any mention of the fuel filters. I'd either check the fuel pressure just before the injection pump while it's stalled, or change the filters and take apart every hose and fitting and blow them all out, including the tank pickup.

After you get it to rev faster at high idle.

Sorry.... you are correct, failed to mention that. I did replace fuel filter before this started.

The fuel filter housing has an unpopulated "out" port.... I think I'll look for a pressure gauge to install there. That way I can see pressure right before it enters injection pump.

 

[Murph_MDM]

That's what we call in the biz> baby sh!t.. As in, HEY your pump is full of baby sh!t !!! Its from not maintaining the proper oil quantity & the condensation that happens inside/outside the alum. pump body..
Also the residual fuel that's lost inside the pump.. GOOD THING u found it before the gov. stuck..
You "might" wanna do a couple of "flush's".. now that u know where/what to do..
On the back of the pump is a banjo bolt w/ a plastic pig tail.. THAT allows the pump body to breath.. clean out the banjo bolt & make sure the line is clear..
Its possible that the engine has been running at 1800 for so long w/ that water & dirt for lubricant, that the gov. weights are stuck at 1800 & wont move past it.. all u can do is try..{move the lever to the stop screw}

--Baby sh!t (more like baby p!ss!) ....Nice.
--I will definitely do a few flushes... maybe I'll fill it (briefly) with Seafoam to help break down any varnish/ rust/ gunk in there.
--I figured that pigtail was a breather, it's a small metal pipe... I'll pull banjo fitting and shoot compressed air through the metal line.
--I will play with the linkage and see if I can get it to hit 2375 rpm no load. If the linkage can not get the motor up to 2375 rpm, I will attempt the other method you sent me in a PM.
-- I will order up 4 new injectors today-- to remove bad injectors from the possible culprits.
-- If the injection pump needs to be rebuilt, for sure I will be sending it to you.

 

[Murph_MDM]

And, I'd check the injection pump for any air line from the intake manifold, if there is no boost connection from the intake to the injection pump, and I doubt there is, then the injection pump is in control, the turbo only boosts up if there's enough exhaust to drive it from enough fuel.

I did find a small line coming off the back of the intake tract--it was no longer connected to anything, it was an old metal line that was crimped shut. Looks like it was a signal line but what it connected into, I have no idea. Looked for anything it may have connected to but couldn't find anything. Didn't see anywhere on the injection pump where it may have been connected. Maybe it went to a boost gauge?..... The dash does have an open gauge hole where something was mounted but I have no idea what was there originally.

 

[Murph_MDM]

Unfortunately, I have to go down to Southern California to build a wire harness for Roland Sands Designs. https://www.rolandsands.com/bikes

Working with those guys is always fun and challenging, I just wish I could keep working on the A62 and get it dialled.... more snow is on its way. Hopefully when I get back everything isn't buried!!

I will order up those injectors and look for a pressure gauge so that stuff will hopefully be here when I get back. Think I'll order a new lift pump since those are also less than $50...

Thanks for all the help so far Delmer and thepumpguysc!

Murph

 

[Delmer]

That might have been an ether start, don't worry about it. The boost line was an early thought, I thought this was too old to have one, now we KNOW it's too old to have any smog stuff.

It should have no problem hitting 2,300 RPM no load with half the cylinders running at half power, that's a linkage/governor issue. once it does that, then you see what it does under load. I wouldn't bother with the injectors yet, but I'm not the expert.

 

[Murph_MDM]

Update: Boost gauge now reading just over 15lbs when under big load. Injection pump was not getting to full throttle because of slop in multiple linkages between pedal and injection pump. Pedal was also bent down and preventing full throttle operation. Need to recheck rpm, but machine is a different animal with 15lbs vs 5 lbs boost.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[kshansen]

Unfortunately, I have to go down to Southern California to build a wire harness for Roland Sands Designs. https://www.rolandsands.com/bikes
Murph

They can build those custom bikes but not make up their own wiring harness? Or is this some real special CAN-bus system?

 

[Murph_MDM]

They can build those custom bikes but not make up their own wiring harness? Or is this some real special CAN-bus system?

I build harnesses for race bikes in the World Championship (WorldSBK). They CAN do it, it's just a better use of resources for me to build harnesses and their fabricators fabricating...