How does this Berco track chain come apart?

[JMR-TBAY]

I’ll be doing some UC work in the near future and am stumped as to how this Berco chain comes apart. I can’t locate any link that has a noticeable master pin, and there certainly is no alligator style master link.

Can any pin be pressed/beaten/burned out?

This UC is from an early 90’s Cat 227 (feller buncher) I’ve been told it’s the same as a D7.

 

[epirbalex]

Anything can be melted off , its the putting back that counts . I would expect to find a knock out pin somewhere failing finding a serrated bolted joint . Best area to search for it is where the chain rolls over the idler opening up the edge of the plates . On all but one link you will be able to see the bush extend into the outside link , there should be a large washer between the inside and outside links , that will be the one

 

[JMR-TBAY]

Anything can be melted off , its the putting back that counts . I would expect to find a knock out pin somewhere failing finding a serrated bolted joint . Best area to search for it is where the chain rolls over the idler opening up the edge of the plates . On all but one link you will be able to see the bush extend into the outside link , there should be a large washer between the inside and outside links , that will be the one

Thanks for the tip. Will try that.

 

[BC Placer gold]

We have Berco chains on our Terex 82-30. One pin has a small dimple (master pin).

These are Berco CR 1978sealed chains.

 

[JMR-TBAY]

We have Berco chains on our Terex 82-30. One pin has a small dimple (master pin).

These are Berco CR 1978sealed chains.

Mine is a CR5490. Several pins have dimples on my chain unfortunately, but the back side doesn’t look any different (ie no knockout pin)

 

[epirbalex]

Mine is a CR5490. Several pins have dimples on my chain unfortunately, but the back side doesn’t look any different (ie no knockout pin)

What will determine whether its a joining link is the bush extending into the outside link or not , depending on the number of total links used the chains could be longer than D7's require having extra joining links .

 

[OzDozer]

Berco CR5490 is the 8.00" pitch D7 track link. However, with your track not having an alligator-style master link, the only way you can identify the master link and pin is via the dimpled master pin - and if the dimple is worn off, as it appears it might be, the only solution then is to try and find the short master bushing, which ends at the inner link.

You may be able to find the master bushing by inserting an old hacksaw blade between inner and outer links, the blade will travel further into the gap than on a normal link, where the bushing extends into the outer link.

 

[Queenslander]

If you can’t find it you could cut the chain vertically through the centre stud and weld together later.
I’ve done it many times on dozers up to D7 size and have honestly never had a problem.
Quicker and easier than flogging a pin out with a big hammer.
I’ve mentioned it here before and usually get comments along the lines of redneck or rough as guts and the like.

 

[Welder Dave]

Carefully cut could be welded back together and the pad could even be welded on the link to give some extra strength. If the pad was welded, just do it on the outside so it would be easy to grind if you ever had to remove it. Normally tracks don't come off very often. If they need to be split for repairs, fix everything needed when the track is off. Chances are it won't have to come off again until the tracks are replaced.

 

[Queenslander]

Dave, I’ve never welded the plates to the chain, I think that the plate is bolted gives adequate strength.
Bolting the two halves of the chain to the plate initially ensures perfect alignment until everything is tacked up.
Remove plate and weld up.

 

[Welder Dave]

As long as you had a good full penetration weld you may not need to weld the track to the pad but welding the pad would give piece of mind and wouldn't hurt anything.

 

[Nige]

However, with your track not having an alligator-style master link, the only way you can identify the master link and pin is via the dimpled master pin - and if the dimple is worn off, as it appears it might be, the only solution then is to try and find the short master bushing, which ends at the inner link.

See this photo from your other thread......

You need to be looking inside the chains rather outside. In the area indicated by the arrow a "normal/standard" bush will go right into the link because it is pressed into the link bore at both ends.

In the case of a master link bush it will stop at the point indicated by the arrow and inside the link at each end will be a thick spacer/washer to take up the space that would be occupied by a longer bush in any other location. As @OzDozer mentioned might possibly be able to find this joint using a hacksaw blade.

 

[BC Placer gold]

You need to be looking inside the chains rather outside. In the area indicated by the arrow a "normal/standard" bush will go right into the link because it is pressed into the link bore at both ends.

In the case of a master link bush it will stop at the point indicated by the arrow and inside the link at each end will be a thick spacer/washer to take up the space that would be occupied by a longer bush in any other location. As @OzDozer mentioned might possibly be able to find this joint using a hacksaw blade.

As Nige states, when viewed from the inside of the chain the master pin will be evident just as described above.

Wear/impacted clay etc may make identification more difficult.

 

[JMR-TBAY]

Thanks for the tips everyone. Will have another look once I’m done this work rotation.

 

[JMR-TBAY]

It’s truly a blessing I came across this parts machine. I’ve never done a thorough inspection of the UC until now. This machine doesn’t move too much around my property. I noticed numerous bushings that are severely cracked and one that’s half missing.

I also located the master pins thanks to the tip from @epirbalex

I had multiple dimpled pins that were used to piece the track together.




On the left side the master pin bushing was demolished.



The master pins have no discernible split pin or similar holding them in. I supposed they could be welded. I’ll start beating on it and see what happens.

More pictures below

 

[JMR-TBAY]

 

[OzDozer]

The master pins are only held in by interference fit - but it's a substantial level of interference, they're in tight. I'm working on Cat D4 tracks right now, and some of the pins are taking 40 tonnes pressure to move.

 

[JMR-TBAY]

I got the parts machine dragged up to my place today. The track is in significantly better condition!

Can anyone ID the brand of chain on it? A google search for “TB6 Trac” didn’t give me anything.

 

[Tyler d4c]

That is ITRAC brand chain

 

[OzDozer]

The brand is Itrac, a well known global track component manufacturer. It's a brand name of the Italian company Italtractor, who also have ITM and InterTractor as brand names.

The Italtractor company is owned by Titan International Inc, a U.S. based company who started off in the tire and wheel business, and who now own 23 subsidiary companies globally.

titan international, inc. subsidiaries - Google Search

Titan Tire Corporation - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

https://group-itm.com/Media/Download/Brochure/ITM_Undercarriage-Solutions.pdf