Help With JD 544B Transmission

[tpgtpg]

I've purchased a JD 544B that runs great until it warms up(1.5 - 2 hours), then the tranny seems to loose power. It does so in fwd/rev and hi/lo so I'm thinking its not the clutches. I changed the transmission fluid and filters but wimped out on pulling the strainer as it didn't appear that the strainer could be pulled with the tranny in the frame. (oil and filters looked very clean). Transmission oil pressure guage shows borderline pressure - but still in the green.

When I shift from forward to reverse it takes probably 2 seconds for the pressure to go back into the green - is this normal?

Can the strainer be pulled with the transmission in place?

Anything else I should check? (obviously need to purchase a guage and check the pressure)

A related question: The owners manual say specifically not to use Hygard Transmission and Hydraulic oil - to use John Deere Torque-Converter Fluid(Typce C-3). Apparently this is not available any more and dealer says just use the Hygard. Any problems using Hygard in the 544B?

Thanks in advance,

tpgtpg

 

[superdutyII]

i have a john deere 444c and it did about the same thing and it was the pump but yea you need to check pressure and see where you are at.

 

[tpgtpg]

i have a john deere 444c and it did about the same thing and it was the pump but yea you need to check pressure and see where you are at.

Thanks SuperdutyII.

Apparently the old gauge was bad - and the line clogged with gunk. A new gauge on it is showing that the pressure is good and got rid of most of the delay time in pressure build up.

Haven't had a chance to run it more that 1.25 hours since the tranny oil/filter change to see if it is still loosing power after it gets hot.

 

[JonathanMA]

No, you can't get the suction screen out with the transmission in place. I've seen numerous bearing failures in the torque converter. Theres a double row ball bearing in there that seems to fail before all others and when it does, aluminum parts that weren't meant to touch each other start touching and then its all down hill from there. I'd inspect/change the 2 filters in the articulation joint and cut the old ones open and see what you find. if theres a lot of oil that looks like never-sieze and its not magnetic, then it might be time to dig a bit deeper before the hard to find expensive parts are needed. a rough rule of thumb on those is that as long as the engine RPM's are where they should be (lever on pump against its stop) at high speed, then the transmission should over-power the brakes in low range. The throttle linkage is a high wear item that will effect performance as well. It should be against the stop on the injection pump with the foot pedal against the floor.

 

[tpgtpg]

No, you can't get the suction screen out with the transmission in place. I've seen numerous bearing failures in the torque converter. Theres a double row ball bearing in there that seems to fail before all others and when it does, aluminum parts that weren't meant to touch each other start touching and then its all down hill from there. I'd inspect/change the 2 filters in the articulation joint and cut the old ones open and see what you find. if theres a lot of oil that looks like never-sieze and its not magnetic, then it might be time to dig a bit deeper before the hard to find expensive parts are needed. a rough rule of thumb on those is that as long as the engine RPM's are where they should be (lever on pump against its stop) at high speed, then the transmission should over-power the brakes in low range. The throttle linkage is a high wear item that will effect performance as well. It should be against the stop on the injection pump with the foot pedal against the floor.

Thanks JonathanMA.

Glad I didn't try to get the strainer out.

I replaced the fluid/filters - both seemed very clean. I'll run it a few hours and check it again.

I'll check the throttle linkage also..

Thanks again,

tpgtpg