Help Please: One side track will not move on my Kobelco?

[redline808]

It looks like your front idler berings are out too.

Front idler bearings not even present, its just a shaft and a big hole. All the small ones on the bottom are done too. I will be rebuilding all of that before the track goes back on. Its going to ride like a Cadillac when its done. I wont have a pesky wallet to sit on either, sense I'll be broke. lol.

 

[redline808]

Good idea on the video ! I would start by pulling the final drive apart and i am quite sure you will find the problem. Show us the insides. doug

Thanks, a video was the best way I could think of showing you guys what was going on.

 

[redline808]

i,d be checkin that front idler. with a tight track it could be enough to stall your final.

I think that bad idler was the culprit.

 

[redline808]

Ok, it's out. First let me start by saying I am not a mechanic, secondly, taking the travel motor out is a big pain in the A_s. 13 bolts hold it on. 6 came out normal, 5 needed a 3/4 impact with a snap on extractor, which broke and 2 needed to be torched off as you can see. then it did not want to part with the machine, I wraped a chan around it and hooked the other end to my bucket, fired up the machine and yanked it out, it took several trys to free it, i thought the chain was going to snap. well it's out.

Now I cannot figure out how to get it apart. I got the valve body off the back, from there I dont know where to go. I flipped it over, using a scraper, and scraping out almost 20 yrs of dirt, rocks and sand, I found a wire clip that goes all the way around the out side of the housing, I got the clip out. I cannot get that front cover off? I have heated it, hit it, pried it, tried screwing a bolt in the drain hole to try and press it up, while heating and hiting. I don't know. Any Ideas.







btw, how do you post photos? I tried, but could not seem to find the right code.

Thanks.

 

[mike69440]

Drive motor cover removal

I have a very slight leak on my Komatsu cover. My dealer told me it is near a day to get the thing apart because the cover is installed with a slight press.

A "special fixture" needed to be made. So I figure checking the oil level every 100 hours is bettewr than a $1000 to repace an o-ring.

I suggest you ask a dealer how to remove the cover amd use lots of penetrating oil. The covers are tight to reduce the housing flex.

 

[Countryboy]

btw, how do you post photos? I tried, but could not seem to find the right code.

See the second red line (no pun intended ) in my signature below. If that doesn't help then just let me know.

 

[mike69440]

Sorry , this is a thread hyjack.

The Spool valve on the right side of my Kamatsu PC75UU2E is galled up. $2700 for a new one with a long wait! Where can I try to find a used one?

Help! Anyone

Thanks

 

[redline808]

Alright here are pictures of my machine.

 

[redline808]

My new/used travel motor is here. Fresh from Thailand, costed $1100. We carried it on as luggage, Japan airlines only chared $120 for it being over weight. It weighted in at 180 lbs.

 

[atgreene]

Where did you order it through?

As far as the stink of the oil, all motors turn the oil rancid. The first time I changed mine I thought I was going to puke. Since then I have swapped to Amsoil and change it every 300 hours or so and have much cleaner less stinky oil. For the cost and hassle of a track motor, Amsoil is cheap.

 

[redline808]

Where did you order it through?

As far as the stink of the oil, all motors turn the oil rancid. The first time I changed mine I thought I was going to puke. Since then I have swapped to Amsoil and change it every 300 hours or so and have much cleaner less stinky oil. For the cost and hassle of a track motor, Amsoil is cheap.

Originally the excavator was from Vietnam, and I shipped it to Hawaii. We went to Thailand for a vacation, they have a used parts area in Bangkok, everything you can imagine used from cars, bikes, to dozers and excavators. Area is called Pathumwan.

 

[hardtail]

keep disassembeling, and see how the problem changes. If in fact your planetary is the problem there is a possibility that a good machinist might be able to save the day. Also depending on what you need I know a guy that restores heavy equipment like clark airborne crawlers and stuff. That man is the smartest parts man that I have ever known, he might be able to locate you either parts for, or maybe a used planetary or something.

SJ83 with a bit of social skills make that man your new best friend I have met but a few thusfar that posess these wonderful talents unfortunately almost all now are deceased In Canada most of the early immigrants were from Europe and it would be a disservice to call these people tradesman as they were craftsman in their skills and expertice. Unfortunately in todays techno assembly and disposable world doesn't readily promote this anymore:beatsme Had I displayed a little less arrogance/ignorance of youth I could have learned more from the masters.:Banghead

 

[Fishfiles]

Cover Removal

Looks like you have it handled , in case you wanted to get that cover off the old planetary to see what failed and possibly keep it as something to rebuild if needed in the furtire , I start with a fitting welded to a nut to screw onto a slide hammer , screw it into the hole for the oil plug , this works in most cases but yours looks very rusted and will probally not come out easy , AeroKroil is the best penetrant I have every used and could help , if the plug adaptor pulls the threads off the fitting , I would weld a large nut to the cover , which can be cut off and grinded clean afterwards and make an adaptor to the slide hammer for it , some heat around the out side of the housing may help , have seen cases where I have had to destroy the cover to get it out , as long as the teeth on the outer ring of the housing are good you could posiblly get away with some sun and or spur gears and bearings which is probally what has it jammed up , if that ever happens to you again it isn't a good idea to keep jammed it forward and reverse as that is how you crank off the teeth and trash any chance of cost effecent rebuild , as far as the smell , I know it well , it's wiecked and stays with you , makes me think it hasn't been changed in a long time , have actually been on job and drained and flushed the planetaries ( which is a good idea to do ) and had them thinking someone hit a gas line or something

 

[bigmoo321]

Bobcat 320 please help

Hi, I'm a newbie here and cant post a new thread so searched for track motor and this is the thread I found....so here goes, I have the Bobcat 320 roughly 1996 model, I need to know if a 322 two speed motor would be operational in my single speed 320. Please help here as I'm having real trouble finding an answer to this question.

Cheers :Banghead

 

[redline808]

It works. Finally installed the new drive motor. It took so long because I found out that the front "idler wheel" I don't know if that is what it is called, but the axle that goes through it was all that was there, the bearing was so destroyed it was not even present. I wish I had a picture of it. What happened is while I was driving forward, the front wheel locked up the track, I guess with the weight of the machine and the drive motor pushing forward, it caused the drive motor to blow up. The front idler wheel is what caused this whole mess.

So then I had to repair that front idler wheel, sense I cannot get any parts for the grey market machine, I took it to a local heavy equipment machine shop. They charged $140 to press out the axle and then estimated it to cost $1500-2000 to fab up a new bearing for one side. Well forget that, time for another vacation, back to Thailand, Japan Airlines ticket $750. Once there, I bought both sides for $300. I am still in it for less then the machine shop wanted for one side and I go a vacation too. Again hand carried it back as baggage.

Almost ready to install, needed bolts. No one on our island has metric bolts the sizes I needed. I ordered them from Caterpillar, awesome, they have free shipping, next day air. Now I am ready, I install the drive motor and go to hook up the hydraulic lines, damn, different connection fittings, my old drive motor had compression style, the new unit used another style, and to top it off my old fittings were to small and would not fit, as the fitting holes were quite a bit larger then my old unit. Of course, no one here has the fittings I need. Next best thing cut the fitting in half, use half of my fitting and half of the new fittings and tig weld it together. Just that simple, no, the new motor was missing a fitting. I hunted around for a bolt with the same threads, or something, I almost resorted to turning one on a lathe, luckily we found a hydraulic line plug that had the same thread. The pictures below show what I did to make it work.

 

[redline808]

After I made the fittings, we we installed the drive motor, sprocket and front idler wheel. attached the hydraulic lines, popped the track back on and here it is. going to try and drive it tomorrow, if the weather permits. It has been storming here in Hawaii for the past week and yes believe it or not, we have had several feet of snow fall on our mountains. Tomorrow I am taking a half day to go snow boarding.....wu-hu.

 

[Lashlander]

Nice follow up. Thats a heck of a parts run you made!

 

[redline808]

Alright, I drove it today. New problem??

The new drive motor, on the right track is a lot slower then the left track? do drive motors have left and right? there was 4 ports on the drive motor for hydraulic lines. 3 were used one is plugged. When I installed the unit, the top one was plugged and the next 3 were open. I needed to put my small line in the top port, so I took that plug out and moved it to the bottom port. The bottom port was plugged on the original motor. Could I have that wrong? My machine is low on hydraulic fluid to, could that be a problem? I would think both tracks would be slow if it was fluid level related.

Any ideas please

 

[TractorDealer]

keep disassembeling, and see how the problem changes. If in fact your planetary is the problem there is a possibility that a good machinist might be able to save the day. Also depending on what you need I know a guy that restores heavy equipment like clark airborne crawlers and stuff. That man is the smartest parts man that I have ever known, he might be able to locate you either parts for, or maybe a used planetary or something.

Hi...I need a radiator and shroud for a Clarke Airborne and you mention a party that restores, etc. them. Can I find out who that is or where you talking about Syltech in NY? thanks!! Robert Moline in Nashville, TN or- cashmoline@hotmail.com

 

[bigbob]

Looks like you have it handled , in case you wanted to get that cover off the old planetary to see what failed and possibly keep it as something to rebuild if needed in the furtire , I start with a fitting welded to a nut to screw onto a slide hammer , screw it into the hole for the oil plug , this works in most cases but yours looks very rusted and will probally not come out easy , AeroKroil is the best penetrant I have every used and could help , if the plug adaptor pulls the threads off the fitting , I would weld a large nut to the cover , which can be cut off and grinded clean afterwards and make an adaptor to the slide hammer for it , some heat around the out side of the housing may help , have seen cases where I have had to destroy the cover to get it out , as long as the teeth on the outer ring of the housing are good you could posiblly get away with some sun and or spur gears and bearings which is probally what has it jammed up , if that ever happens to you again it isn't a good idea to keep jammed it forward and reverse as that is how you crank off the teeth and trash any chance of cost effecent rebuild , as far as the smell , I know it well , it's wiecked and stays with you , makes me think it hasn't been changed in a long time , have actually been on job and drained and flushed the planetaries ( which is a good idea to do ) and had them thinking someone hit a gas line or something

I have removed one of the plugs on the HyDash motors and used a little compressed air to pop the cover off, use low PSI.