• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Help! EX200-2 hydraulic relief-valve / overheating (?) issue

RedMcC

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2015
Messages
16
Location
Canberra, Australia
I got some fantastic advice on here the last time... so here goes.

Machine: Hitachi EX200-2
Vintage: 1991, 18000hrs+
Modifications: New Engine (6BG1-T, ie. the next generation of 6BD1-T), done 6 months ago and it was working like a dream.

Recent replacements: I replaced the A-sensor this morning, it is at maximum clockwise setting and not helping the situation described below (although I still suspect the previous A-sensor was a little faulty)

Symptoms:
1. The Engine overheats (95-100degs C) after 10-15 mins of use - this is obviously a big problem. The Radiator still has fluid movement and air going through it - the temperature does vary horizontally and vertically across the radiator (I'll get some figures next time I'm on the machine). I think the variation is a bit excessive and there is possibly some internal radiator obstruction, but it not the main problem (I think).

2. I hear a pressure relief valve (at least I assume it is) whenever the machine isn't actually in operation. This is particularly noticable at Low Revs as it isn't drowned out by engine noise. The pressure relief 'hiss' stops whenever I move the boom/stick/swing etc. I think this is part of the main problem...

3. As part of my diagnostics, I electrically disconnected the pump solenoid that increases pump swash / load - the pressure relief noise was still there even when it is supposedly at minimum / very-low swash. The machine was, as expected, very slow moving, but interestingly I was able to stall the engine by continuing to order "stick-out" when already at maximum extension (this is a new symptom and repeated when the solenoid was connected as well).

4. The pump solenoid electrical resistance is a little out of tolerance (should be 16 Ohms+/-1; and is at 18 Ohms). I don't think this is a source of the problems, even when electrically isolated the pressure relief noise is still there.

5. The main pump Pressure sensor plug is a little broken - I have a replacement for that, but don't think it is part of the problem.

6. I have done wiring harness continuity checks from the PVC / ECP computers to the: A-sensor / pump solenoids / P-sensor / ECM (all were good). I haven't done anything with the DP sensor, it is on the list but I'm starting to feel like I'm missing something and my fault finding is getting random...

7. When changing revs (I,L,E,P), the actual revs change much slower than they used to (take around 4 secs to go from L to P, used to be under 0.5 secs). The Engine Control Motor is moving slowly, suggesting it is an electrical control issue not a motor issue (I'll need to triple check this.)

8. With the A-sensor mechanically disconnected (but still electrically connected), I can tweak the A-sensor so there is no pressure relief hiss. Unfortunately, at this point there is not enough hydraulic pressure to lift the bucket, let alone do any work.

Anyone have any ideas, or seen anything like this before?
 

200lc1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2016
Messages
92
Location
BC Canada
I would believe that the engine overheating is more of a symptom of an engine problem. Hydraulic fluid overheating itself would more likely be caused by something like a faulty relief valve, or various other things. Have you checked both hydraulic fluid temp and engine coolant temp with something like a hand held infrared thermometer? Is it actually boiling over or is the gauge faulty? Stuck thermostat, plugged radiator, if the engine is laboring or stalling I would aim towards hydraulics. Otherwise I'd look at cooling efficiency, or over fueling, it would be smokey if getting too much fuel (weak turbo, plugged air cleaner).
Place to start...
 

joeblow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
239
Location
Victoria B.C.
Occupation
Retired
I have had little experience with the dash 2 but it was a proto type for the dash 3 .This hiss you are hearing is the pilot pressure relief and it is a hiss/click type of noise and that is normal.The pump angle sensor should be set to 4.5 volts (use a break out connector or make one yourself -cut the red/yellow wire and install a 3 way connection.Then do the same for the black wire.) then unplug the 2 pump solenoids at an idle and let the pump go to full swash.Use a volt meter and plug + into red/yellow and - into black wire.Loosen the 2 allen head bolts (just snug ) and set the angle sensor to 4.5 volts.Try that and see if the overheat problem gets better.
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2018
Messages
8
Location
Ireland
Hi there RedM, I'm new here and this is My first rely to any query... could you have a faulty water pump could the impeller be damaged or broken....I just noticed the date is March 29 2018 you may have problem solved at this stage..... cheers
 
Top