help a new guy keep his Cat 247B for years

[Twistedmetal]

I inherited a 2002 247B after dad passed. I am way overdue for maintenance on it. What oil do i use for oil change, 10W30 i know but assume regular car oil not made to spec? Also What Hydraulic fluid, I never dealt with this and did not realize there is different types? Any links to sites where i can order stuff from would be appreciated, The local Cat location is way pricy for anything, sadly what supplies my dad had has run out and i now need to learn all this stuff. everything i had only said Cat with none of the actual spec info I need to make sure I buy the right stuff.

 

[mks]

For accurate info a machine serial number will be needed for those who know to source information.
Commonly behind the operators seat there is an operation and maintenance manual that would answer many of your questions and more. Seems they commonly go missing though.
The good people here will be along to help you sort things out.

 

[Nige]

If you are going to do the maintenancne the first thing you are going to need is an Operation & Maintenance Manual unless there is still one in the pocket behind the seat. They are not expensive, usually less than $50.

To identify the correct manual a machine Serial Number is required. In fact the S/N is the key to obtaining all parts & service information, model year means nothing where Yellow Iron is concerned.

 

[Twistedmetal]

Ok I had to search but I found the manual. SN is MTL01188 attaching a pic of fluids page. As some one new to anything other than cars plz translate what all the API info means and where/how I can buy this.
As I am in CT it looks like 5W40 is best, that said now I'm confused it looks like I use the same oil also as hydraulic fluid is this correct?

 

[Nige]

As some one new to anything other than cars plz translate what all the API info means and where/how I can buy this.

API - American Petroleum Institute. See this LINK
All engine oils should be marked on the label what API standard they meet. CF-4 is the oldest specification, then CG-4, etc, etc.
A 10W30 or 15W40 oil would be more than adequate. 5W40 would usually be used in somewhere like Northern Canada inside the Arctic Circle.

now I'm confused it looks like I use the same oil also as hydraulic fluid is this correct?

The first recommendation at the top of the list is a HYDO (or hydraulic oil). An SAE10W would work fine in your climate conditions.

 

[Twistedmetal]

API - American Petroleum Institute. See this LINK
All engine oils should be marked on the label what API standard they meet. CF-4 is the oldest specification, then CG-4, etc, etc.
A 10W30 or 15W40 oil would be more than adequate. 5W40 would usually be used in somewhere like Northern Canada inside the Arctic Circle.

The first recommendation on the list is a HYDO (or hydraulic oil). An SAE10W would work fine in your climate conditions.

So regular car 10W30 oil should be fine or is there something special I need as it is a CAT diesel engine? It is a 3024 engine if that matters at all.

 

[Nige]

So regular car 10W30 oil should be fine

Unfortunately no. Oils for gasoline engine service are classified under the API system as SL, SM, SN, etc. An oil for gasoline engine service is not suitable for use in a diesel engine, Cat or otherwise.

If you click the link I posted above it will show you the list of diesel engine "C Category" classiifcations in one tab and for gasoline engine classifications under a different tab.

 

[ozarkag]

Some specific, good diesel engine oils that should be readily available at a local auto parts store or wlamart are, Rotella T4, Mobil Delvac 1300, Chevron Delo 400, all in 15w40, or 10w30 should be fine. As for the hydraulic system, Case tried to keep it simple and use the same oil (engine 10w30) in the hydraulics. Any good quality ($50 -90 a bucket) tractor hydraulic fluid or Iso 46 hydraulic oil will be perfect. Some specific names, Case Hytran, Deere Hy Guard, Chevron 1000, Mobil 424 ,

You can go crazy chasing oil specs.
Don't throw oe Cat to far away, their pricing can be surprisingly competitive
Do stay away from "farm store" cheapo oils

 

[Nige]

Do stay away from "farm store" cheapo oils

This cannot be stressed enough. Good oils (and filters) changed at the appropriate intervals are the cheapest insurance policy you can buy for any machine.

 

[PeterG]

Some specific, good diesel engine oils that should be readily available at a local auto parts store or wlamart are, Rotella T4, Mobil Delvac 1300, Chevron Delo 400, all in 15w40

Sorry about your Dad. Did he write on the filters the hours and date when changed?
You could try and get information from the Cat Dealer to see if he bought parts there and when, as well if he did any service there. Also check around to see if he kept any service records. On some machines like the Takeuchi, you can use the diesel engine oil also for the hydraulic fluid. Change the oil filter and fuel filter. Drain water separator. Check the battery, the belt condition and tension and radiator fluid. Check the hydraulic fluid level. That would be a good start. You may also want to just take it to the dealer to do have them go through it a bit and maybe do the hydraulic oil change and filters. Go through the owners manual maintenance schedule and see if you can get a service manual and owners manual.

 

[Twistedmetal]

Sorry about your Dad. Did he write on the filters the hours and date when changed?
You could try and get information from the Cat Dealer to see if he bought parts there and when, as well if he did any service there. Also check around to see if he kept any service records. On some machines like the Takeuchi, you can use the diesel engine oil also for the hydraulic fluid. Change the oil filter and fuel filter. Drain water separator. Check the battery, the belt condition and tension and radiator fluid. Check the hydraulic fluid level. That would be a good start. You may also want to just take it to the dealer to do have them go through it a bit and maybe do the hydraulic oil change and filters. Go through the owners manual maintenance schedule and see if you can get a service manual and owners manual.

This machine has like 200 hrs on it. My dad was in construction and bought this one just to do stuff around the house. It has sat mostly with me just starting it monthly to make sure it ran. I now want to start using more for my projects in the yard so want to do a PM. The cat dealer charges 125.00 an hour to come out and I have no way to get it to them. I will be checking there prices and if not to to crazy will buy from them since i know the oil and air filter will need to be from them. sadly I think the only thing he did was adding grease to the ports.

 

[Nige]

Based on the above you need to be carrying out a nose to tail full oil/filter service as a minimum.

Reinforcing what was said above, often Cat dealers have promotional pricing on oils & filters that makes them the same price or cheaper than the parts house "no name" branded stuff.

 

[Twistedmetal]

ok you all have been so much help found all the part # needed for oil, fuel, hydraulic and air filter. The pic added is of the oil drain. just want to make sure i have this figured right . The rubber hose is for drain and it looks like facing straight down is a pep valve to open the drain port. Is this a safe assumption? I have googled to death oil changes on Cats and only seen actual drain plugs that when removed make a hell of a mess. thinking my dad had this added as an option or after buying it to prevent the huge mess. Also should I start the machine let it get to temp then shut down and let cool but keep it warm enough to help oil flow out easier? I need to do that with my mower but that is 30W not 10W30 oil. As a side note I am going to buy all fluids from Cat as I want to make sure all fluids will mix well with whatever might be in there, hydraulic in particular.

 

[Nige]

Also should I start the machine let it get to temp then shut down and let cool but keep it warm enough to help oil flow out easier?

Yes. Always drain the oil with the engine at normal operating temperature. With that drain valve it will be very easy.

Judging by the photo the first thing they engine compartment ought to get is a good cleaning. That amount of contamination hanging around is a fire hazard.

 

[Chrisso]

And these things do catch on fire.

A pressure washer is a good investment if you don't already have one. In your Operation and Maintenance Manual (OMM) you'll find instructions on raising the cab. There's also a belly plate under the machine. You'll need to reverse the rear of the machine up on blocks to remove it.

Hard to tell from the photo but this is the factory drain valve below. They fill up with gunk and seize up, especially if they haven't been used before. The bit highlighted has to be pulled outwards from the fitting and then turned counter-clockwise to open. Penetrating oil is your friend.


Again sorry about your dad. Never had one here so no idea what it feels like to lose one.

 

[Twistedmetal]

I want to thank all for your input. I was able to change the oil and replace all filters today. It started for a second then died but am pretty sure that is just a matter of priming the fuel system with the manual priming button. did it but reading the book it says to do it again if it won't start.

 

[Twistedmetal]

I want to thank all for your input. I was able to change the oil and replace all filters today. It started for a second then died but am pretty sure that is just a matter of priming the fuel system with the manual priming button. did it but reading the book it says to do it again if it won't start.

Ok so I got stubborn before dark and got the Cat to fire up. Thank You to all that helped with info. I also did a thorough cleaning of the engine compartment, no pressure washing but good wipe down with break cleaner and rags.